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IN  MEMORIAM 
Henry  Byron  Phillips 


^M4j_^_i9i_4- 


Berkeley,  Californi 

t  h  i  sj     ro  O  K 

WAS  SOLD  TO 
HENRY     BYRON      PHILLIPS 


3Y 


A^fL±  K  O  /rCvma^  / 


^iTQyt.yUu^  for,  -^^ 


• 


OBSERVATIONS 


ON 


It     J    J 


,     ,    '       ' 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE. 


BY 

W.  L.  G.  SMITH, 

LATE  U.    S.    CONSUL  AT*  SHANGHAI. 


NEW  YORK : 
CARLETOJ\\  PUBLISHER,  413  BROAD  WAV. 

(LATE    RUDD    &    CARLETON.) 
M  DCCC  LXIII. 


&.lfy, 


\Jf 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1SG3,  by 
GEO.   W.   CARLETON. 
In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  Southern  District  of 

New  York. 


TO 


Hon.  LEWIS  CASS. 


I  dedicate  this  volume   to  you,   in  token  of  my 

respect  for  your  private  virtues,  and  gratitude  for 
your  friendship. 


W.  L.  G.  SMITH. 


580.'{07 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PRELIMINARY 13 

CHAPTER  n. 

THE    TREATY    OF    WANGHIA 20 

CHAPTER  III. 

THE    POSITION    OF    THE    UNITED    STATES     IN     OPENING    THE     COM- 
MERCE  OF    CHINA.         .......  25 

CHAPTER  IV. 

FOREIGN    TRADE  OF    CANTON.  * 30 

CHAPTER  V. 

THE  GENEBAL  FEATURES  OF  CHINA.'     ....      81 


Vlll  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  VL 

THE    YANGTZE  KIANG 86 

CHAPTER  VIL 

THE    SHEPHERDS    OF    CHINA.  ......  88 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

LAND    TITLE. —  CURRENCY. —  THE   EMPEROR'S    GENEROSITY.  40 

CHAPTER  IX. 

THE    AVOCATIONS    OF    THE   CHINESE 47 

CHAPTER  X. 

THE    EMPIRE. —  THE    EMPERORS. —  KIND    OF    GOVERNMENT  —  IM- 
PERIAL   ABODE. —  THE    EXECUTIVE    OFFICERS  THEIR    REGALIA 

AND    DUTIES. —  THE    ARCHIVES 53 

CHAPTER  XL 

QUALIFICATIONS    OF   THE   MANDARINS. —  THE     COURT    LANGUAGE. 
OFFICIAL    DELINQUENCY. —  ADMINISTRATION     OF     JU8TICE.       .    62 

CHAPTER  XII. 

THE    JUNK    CA«E. CIVIL    SIDE    OF    COURT.  ...  70 


CONTENTS.  IX 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

THE    WIDOW    WOMAN. —  CRIMINAL  SIDE  OF  COURT.  .  .  74 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

RAILROADS. —  COURIERS. —  FORMALITIES. —  THE  YAMUNS.  .       79 

CHAPTER  XV. 

CHINESE    PECULIARITIES POLYGAMY 84 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

HOW    THE    CHINESE  GET   THEIR   WIVES. —  THE    MARRIAGE    CERE- 
MONY.  THE   MAKRIAGE    FEAST 87 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

HOLIDAYS. — HOW    TIME   13    RECKONED.  .  91 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

AMUSEMENTS. —  TEA  HOUSES. —  OPIUM. —  DINNER  PARTIES.  93 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

THE  VARIOUS  TRADES. — ROADS. HOUSES. — CATTLE. MODE  OF 

DOING    BUSINESS. —  COOLIES 97 


X  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XX. 

THE    REBELS. —  TAEPLNG    WANG 103 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

THE    NEW    TREATIES 110 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

HOW   THE    NEW    TREATIES    WERE  RATIFIED. — TAKU   FORTS.  113 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

SHANGHAI 122 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

SQUEEZES 131 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

CANTON 136 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

HONGKONG 143 


CONTENTS.  XI 

CHAPTER  XXVtI. 

FOO-CHOO-FOO. —  TEAS. —  THE  DIFFERENT  KINDS.     .     .    147 

CHAPTER  XXVIII 


AMOT. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


NINGPO. 


151 


153 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

SWATOW  AND  TAIWAN. — TYPHOONS. —  FORMOSA.  .  .  155 

CHAPTEll  XXXI. 

CHIN    KIANG. —  KIN    KIANG. HANKOW.  .  .  .  161 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

TANGCHOW. —  CHEE-FOO. —  TIENTSIN. THE  EMPEROR NKW- 

CI1WANG 166 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

THE    COAST. PIRATES  — CHUSAN  ....  180 


Xll  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

PUNISHMENT. —  YEH. —  HO 187 

CHAPTER  XXXV. 


BELIGION. 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

THE  FUTURE.  .... 


197 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

BOTANY. MINERALOGY 204 


209 


CMNA  AND  THE  CHINESE. 


CHAPTER  I. 


PRELIMINARY. 


JOURNEYING  from  one's  own  country  into  for- 
eign lands  was  formerly  a  grave  affair.  The  trav- 
eler set  out  upon  his  pilgrimage  with  many  a  solemn 
preparation,  and  bade  farewell  to  all  as  if  never  to  re- 
turn. Such  has  been  the  improvement  in  the  con- 
struction of  vessels  and  in  the  art  of  navigation  since 
the  commencement  of  the  present  century,  that  now 
the  traveler  leaves  home  with  almost  as  little  prepara- 
tion or  ceremony  as  if  taking  a  drive  to  some  neigh- 
boring town.  He  pays  his  passage  money,  takes  his 
ticket,  and  steps  aboard  of  the  ship  that  is  to  carry 
him  over  thousands  of  miles  of  water,  with  the  same 
vivacity  that  he  would  go  to  a  fair,  picnic,  or  fash- 
ionable Spa.  Neither  the  storm-clouds  over  a 
soundless  sea,  nor  an  angry  ocean,   create  terror. 


<        «    <     ■ 

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**    .  «,'  .  , 


tit 

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14  "  '  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

What  may  have  been  heard  or  read  of  dismasted, 
foundering,  or  capsized  ships,  is  dismissed  from  the 
mind  and  crushed  away  as  a  mere  phantasy  of  the 
imagination.  The  increased  speed  of  travel  short- 
ens the  former  duration  of  the  voyage ;  and  the 
traveler  now  goes  hounding  over  the  same  seas  which 
in  former  times  cost  so  many  weary  and  lingering 
days  to  the  argonaut.  With  the  barometer  to  fore- 
warn the  calm  and  the  gale,  the  sunshine  and  the 
storm  —  the  chronometer  to  point  the  time,  and  the 
compass  to  guide  the  helm  —  the  mariner  unerring- 
ly keeps  the  vessel  on  its  course.  If  bound  to  the 
other  side  of  the  globe,  he  doubles  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  once  the  great  stumbling-block  of  the  naviga- 
tor, as  easily  as  Cape  Ann :  and  the  voyager  finds 
himself  gliding  along  the  coasts  of  Java  and  Su- 
matra, and  flying  with  a  favorable  monsoon  up  the 
China  Seas,  before  he  has  hardly  finished  the  last 
publication  issued  from  the  press  on  the  eve  of  his 
departure  from  his  native  land.  He  is  now  farther 
than  the  farthest  limits  of  Alexander's  conquests. 
He  is  beyond  the  far  off  Indus,  and  is  on  the  con- 
fines of  that  country  spoken  of  in  the  sacred  records 
of  the  Old  Testament  as  the  land  of  Tsin  or  Sinim. 
He   is   among  a  people  strange   and   new  to  him, 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  15 

though  their  national  existence  dates  back  at  least 
sixty  centuries. 

It  was  in  the  month  of  May  1858,  that  the  writer 
of  this  embarked  at  New  York  on  board  of  the 
American  clipper  ship  "  Mandarin  "  bound  to  China. 
One  hundred  days,  it  was  thought,  was  the  shortest 
time  for  the  duration  of  the  voyage.  But  this  good 
1  'clipper"  was  tight,  staunch  and  strong:  had  her 
hatches  well  caulked  and  covered,  her  sails  new,  an 
experienced  master  and  a  trusty  mate,  faithful  under 
officers  and  a  nimble  crew,  and  well  furnished  with 
all  things  needful  and  necessary  for  the  voyage.  On 
the  ninety-second  day  from  New  York,  the  ship  cast 
anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Hong  Kong,  having  sailed 
nearly  eighteen  thousand  miles.  We  were  landed 
on  a  hemisphere  where  everything  is  in  movement, 
where  fortunes  are  made  and  spent,  where  the  ex- 
tremes of  wealth  and  poverty  meet,  where  the  ar- 
rangement of  society,  is  radically  the  reverse  of 
what  exists  in  these  United  States  of  America.  It 
does  not  take  a  very  long  time  to  comprehend  that 
one  is  among  strange  and  distinct  races,  born  and 
bred  under  different  religious  and  political  institu- 
tions, amenable  to  different  laws,  and  indulging  dif- 
ferent usages.     The  dissimilarity  is  so  great  in  all 


16  OBSERVATIONS    OJV 

the  leading  features  of  national  polity  and  society, 
that  it  is  hard  to  institute  a  comparison.  It  is  only 
in  things  which  run  parallel  to  those  in  his  own 
country,  that  a  comparison  can  he  instituted  :  and 
charity  too  often  fails  where  criticism  begins. 

China  has  many  characteristics  totally  unlike  any 
other  country.     With  a  long  line  of  record,  she  car- 
ries us  far  back  on  the  track  of  time,  as  we  attempt  to 
become  acquainted  with  the  prominent  events  of  her 
history.     Although  the  Jesuists  have  wandered  up 
and  down  her  valleys  and  plains,  and  over  her  hills 
and  mountains  for  two  centuries,  mingling  with  the 
population,  becoming  familiar  with  their  customs  and 
manners,  their  laws  and  institutions,  and  with  the  peo- 
ple themselves,  yet,  after  all,  the  Ta  Sing  empire,  of 
China  as  it  is  usually  called,  has  remained  a  sealed 
book   to    "outside   barbarians."      The    Portuguese 
were  the  first  of  the  Western  nations  to  reach  it. 
They  were  the  pioneers  to  India,  and  having  reaped 
a  rich  harvest  there,  they  ventured  to  the  Islands  of 
Java  and  Sumatra,  and  picking  their  way  over  be- 
calmed waters  and  hidden  rocks  and  shoals,  they 
finally  emerged,  through  the  straits  of  Gasper,  Ban- 
ca  and    Malacca,  into  the   China   Sea.  and  reached 
Macao.     They  lead  in  the  van  of  Eastern  commerce. 


CHINA   AND    THE    CHINESE.  \*J 

Their  object  was  trade.  The  native  rulers  disliked 
their  coming,  discouraged  intercourse  with  them,  and 
imposed  many  restrictions.  For  several  generations 
the  Portuguese  and  those  merchants  of  other  West- 
ern nations  who  followed  in  their  wake,  trafficked 
with  the  people  of  China  under  many  serious  disad- 
vantages. They  could  deal  only  with  such  of  the 
Celestials  as  were  authorized  by  the  government  to 
trade  with  the  "  barbarians. ':  The  celestial  author- 
ities encouraged  the  idea  that  the  western  mer- 
chants were  worse  than  "barbarians,''  they  called 
them  "  devils."  Every  impediment  was  interposed 
against  the  foreigner  in  the  conduct  of  his  business. 
He  was  watched  in  all  his  movements  and  transac- 
tions, subjected  to  arbitrary  and  heavy  imposts,  not 
allowed  to  reside  within  the  walls  of  the  seaport 
town,  nor  suffered  to  go  among  the  people  at  large. 
If  he  was  misused,  his  complaint  was  laughed  at. 
If  he  was  robbed,  either  ashore  or  afloat,  no  effort 
was  apparently  made  to  recover  the  stolen  property 
or  to  punish  the  offender.  His  traffic  was  continual- 
ly hampered  by  unjust  edicts.  The  exchange  of 
commodoties  was  made  with  a  few  hongs,  and  they 
were  constantly  informed  that  they  must  refrain  from 
visiting   other  ports  under  pain  of  confiscation  of 


13  OBSERVATIONS    OJY 

property  and  loss  of  their  lives.  When  admitted 
into  the  presence  of  a  Mandarin,  however  low  his 
position,  they  wTere  invariably  required  to  kotow  and 
chin  chin,  or  no  notice  was  taken  of  them  or  their 
complaints.  Regarded  more  as  pilgrims  to  Mecca 
with  tribute  and  incense  to  gain  the  favor  of  these 
lords  of  the  east,  they  were  regarded  as  menials,  and 
not  unfrequently  treated  with  contempt  by  all  classes. 
But,  the  Western  mind,  then  as  now,  was  not  in- 
active. It  scanned  the  future,  and  trade  of  magnifi- 
cent proportions  loomed  up,  enough  to  gratify  the 
most  extravagant  imagination.  Experience  taught 
the  enterprising  merchant  that  ships  could  traverse 
the  Southern  Atlantic  and  the  vast  Indian  Ocean 
with  the  same  certainty  of  speed  and  safety  as  they 
could  sail  upon  the  Mediterranean,  and  other  inland 
seas.  It  was  evident  that  a  country  of  dense  popu- 
lation had  been  reached,  and  that  the  products  of 
the  West  would  find  a  ready  market.  In  return, 
there  was  an  abundance  of  silk  of  excellent  quality, 
and,  as  it  seemed,  an  almost  measureless  quantity 
of  tea.  There  were  also  precious  stones  and  pearls, 
and  mechanism  of  the  most  exquisite  workman- 
ship. Experience  demonstrated  the  important  fact 
that  the  Chinese  were  fond  of  trade,  and  quite  ready 


CHINA  AJYD  THE  CHINESE.  19 

to  barter  off  their  teas  and  silks  for  the  productions 
of  the  Western  hemisphere ;  and  what  was  of  far 
greater  importance,  it  was  found  that  there  was  a 
wide  and  pleasing  margin  between  the  cost  and  sell- 
ing prices.  There  was  a  large  net  profit  on  the 
cargo  carried  thither,  and,  at  first,  a  fabulous  profit 
in  the  rich  cargo  brought  hither  in  return.  In  ad- 
dition, it  was  found  that  there  was  at  all  times  a 
ready  market  at  the  termination  of  both  outward 
and  homeward  voyages.  The  obstacles,  therefore, 
interposed  by  the  cool  and  subtle  mandarin  —  the 
restrictions  imposed  upon  traffic,  the  exclusion  of  the 
foreign  factor  and  supercargo  from  entering  the 
Chinese  exchange  —  all  had  a  contrary  effect  from 
what  was  intended,  and,  instead  of  dampening  the 
energies  or  cooling  the  ardor,  were  fresh  stimulants 
to  move  these  courageous  and  enlightened  adven- 
turers of  Europe  and  America,  and  impelled  them 
to  make,  and  to  renew  from  time  to  time,  their  her- 
culean efforts,  at  least  to  share,  if  not  to  monopolize 
this  dazzling  commerce  of  the  extreme  East. 


20  OBSERVATIONS  OjV 


CHAPTER.  II. 


TOE    TREATY    OF    "WANGHIA. 


GUIDED  by  a  Providence  whose  secrets  are  lock- 
ed up  in  the  deep  abyss  of  eternity,  and  actuated 
by  that  quenchless  love  for  humanity  which  has  flowed 
along  the  ceaseless  current  of  time  through  every 
age,  from  that  of  Adam  until  now,  the  leading  pow- 
ers of  the  Western  hemisphere,  namely,  Russia, 
France,  Great  Britain,  and  the  United  States  of 
America;  turned  their  attention  eastward,  and 
sought,  by  diplomacy  accompanied  with  suitable 
demonstrations  of  force,  to  open  wide  the  gates 
which  had  so  long  been  closed  to  the  efforts  of  phi- 
lanthropy and  the  commerce  of  the  globe. 

These  great  powers,  after  much  prevarication  and 
the  loss  of  some  blood  and  treasure,  succeeded  in 
concluding  treaty  stipulations  with  Chinese  authori- 
ties, that  provided  for  more  unrestricted  trade,  and 


CHIJYA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  21 

conferred  greater  privileges  upon  their  people  who 
might  seek  those  distant  shores.  Caleb  Cushing,  a 
distinguished  citizen  of  the  state  of  Massachusetts, 
was  commissioned  by  President  Tyler  in  1843.  to  go 
to  China  and  negotiate  a  treaty  of  amity  and  com- 
merce. Furnished  with  a  man  of  war  to  support 
him  in  his  diplomacy,  he  succeeded  in  gaining  from 
the  celestial  authorities  a  favorable  hearing,  and  in 
concluding  a  treaty  at  Wanghia  in  the  kingdom  of 
China.  By  the  terms  thereof,  the  Emperor  con- 
ceded to  citizens  of  the  United  States  who  should 
visit  or  sojourn  in  that  country,  the  right  of  exter- 
ritoriality. Under  this  concession,  the  citizen  at  all 
times  is  under  the  laws  of  his  own  country.  He 
is  not  amenable  to  the  laws  or  institutions  of  pagan- 
ism, nor  subject  to  the  summons,  order,  or  dictation 
of  its  officials.  Whatever  may  be  his  short  comings, 
or  however  at  fault  he  may  be  in  fulfilling  his  obli- 
gations, whether  to  the  Chinese  government,  or  its 
subjects,  or  to  any  one  else,  be  is  still  under  the  di- 
rection and  order  of  his  own  government.  Under 
this  treaty,  the  citizen  could  visit  other  ports  than 
Canton,  where  trade  had  been  confined  so  long,  and 
therefore  was  enabled  to  have  the  benefit  of  more 
markets  than  one,  and  to  reach  in  person  a  wider 


22  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

field  for  trade.  The  ports  of  Arnoy,  Foo  Choo, 
Ningpo,  and  Shanghai,  were  opened  to  foreigners, 
and  the  right  to  trade  at  Canton  was  also  recognized 
by  express  stipulation. 

Provision  was  also  made  for  the  right  to  hire  lands 
and  buildings,  and  to  have  Christian  churches  and 
burial  grounds  ;  and  for  the  accomplishment  of  those 
purposes,  a  proper  portion  of  the  land  at  each  of 
these  ports  was  provided  for,  and  all  to  be  and  con- 
tinue without  hinderance  or  molestation  from  the 
Chinese  local  authorities.  Ships  and  vessels  of  all 
classes  were  allowed  to  anchor  and  unload  and  load 
at  discretion,  in  whole  or  in  part,  without  hurt  or 
trouble ;  and  if  attacked  by  pirates  on  the  coast,  it 
was  provided  that  every  effort  should  be  made  by 
the  Chinese  authorities  to  arrest  and  punish  the 
guilty,  and  to  recover  and  restore  to  the  rightful 
owner,  the  plundered  property.  If  Chinese  become 
indebted  to  the  citizens  of  the  United  States,  they 
were  to  be  made  to  pay  the  same,  and  if  they  com- 
mitted depredations  either  upon  the  person  or  prop- 
erty of  the  citizen,  they  were  to  be  visited  with  prop- 
er punishment.  In  return  for  these  concessions  by 
the  Emperor,  all  merchandise  was  subject,  both  in- 
ward and  outward,  to  an  import  and  export  duty,  and 


CHINA  AJYD   THE  CHINESE.  23 

the  ships  and  vessels  to  a  tonnage  duty,  and  the  land 
to  an  annual  tax  —  all  to  be  paid  into  the  Imperial 
exchequer.  The  ships  and  vessels  were  made  liable 
for  all  the  duties,  and  could  not  leave  port  until  the 
same  were  paid,  and  the  proper  port  clearance  was 
granted.  The  land  was  made  liable  for  the  land  tax, 
and  in  case  of  non-payment  when  due,  the  land  re- 
verted to  the  lord  of  the  soil.  Citizens  were  to  be 
obliged  to  pay  their  indebtedness  to  Chinese,  and  to 
be  punished  for  their  delinquencies,  both  civilly  and 
criminally,  by  their  own  authorities.  In  short,  the 
laws  of  Christian  civilization  at  once  were,  pro  tanto, 
extended  over  the  realm  of  paganism,  and  both  were 
to  exist  and  be  executed,  side  by  side,  among  the 
children  of  the  sun.  What,  before  then,  would  have 
been  pronounced  by  any  sane  mind  a  chimera  and 
utterly  impossible  to  be  carried  out  in  practice,  was 
now  to  be  set  in  motion,  and  the  laws  of  the  anti- 
podes of  this  wide  world,  were  now  to  be  administer- 
ed in  unison  on  the  same  spot  of  earth.  The  offi- 
cials  of  lands  thousands  of  miles  apart,  educated  in 
entirely  opposite  schools  of  morality,  laws  and  poli- 
tics, and  accustomed  to  totally  different  schools  of 
thought  and  reasoning,  were  now  to  walk  hand  in 
hand,  and    in   truth  jointly    rule    the    community. 


24  OBSERVATIONS    OJV 

The  population  of  each  nationality,  subject  only  to 
the  jurisdiction  of  its  own  flag,  was  now  to  form  one 
community  and  one  sociality,  and  to  work,  live,  and 
trade  in  unison,  as  if  under  a  common  allegiance  to 
the  same  municipality  and  the  same  commonwealth. 


CHINA   AND    THE    CHINESE.  25 


CHAPTER  III. 


THE  POSITION  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  IN  OPENING  THE  COMMERCE  OP 

CIILNA. 

AFTER  the  lapse  of  three  centuries,  from  the  time 
when  Vasco  de  Grama  of  Portugal  first  sighted 
Cape  Comorin,  the  extreme  land's  end  of  southern  In- 
dia, and  during  all  of  which  period  every  effort  had 
been  made,  and  every  danger  encountered,  both  on  sea 
and  on  land,  to  gain  the  good  will  and  enjoy  the 
trade  of  all  the  Indies  beyond  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  at  last  this  rubicon  of  civilization  was  reached 
and  crossed.  Christopher  Columbus  planted  the  flag 
of  Portugal,  in  advance  of  all  others,  upon  the  shores 
of  America.  Turning  from  the  west,  the  same  flag 
was  the  first  to  lead  the  way  over  unknown  seas  into 
the  vast  regions  of  the  East.  Whilst  Portugal  and 
other  nations  of  the  Western  hemisphere  were  en- 
deavoring to  learn  the  people  and  possess  the  wealth 

9. 


26  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

of  the  Eastern,  young  America  was  being  born ;  and 
ere  it  was  out  of  its  swaddling  clothes,  with  a  feeble 
navy  to  steady  its  toddling  gait,  and  a  scanty  exche- 
quer to  defray  the  expenses  of  its  administration,  it 
was  recognized  as  a  Power  among  the  nations.     The 
fame  of  the  great  infant  Republic  had  reached  the 
M  Flowery  Land  ;  "  and  it  was  reserved  for  her  glo- 
rious, and,  I  trust,  immortal  banner,  to  be  in  the  van 
of  this  great  work  of  bringing  into  the  family  of 
nations  the  oldest  of  all.     She  stood  at  the  font  in 
the  majestic  cathedral  of  Christian  civilization.     Not 
content  to  act  as  a  mere  witness  to  this  big  event  in 
the  annals  of  Christendom,  undazzled  by  the  glitter 
and  regalia  of  royalty,  and  unawed  by  the  arms  and 
trappings   of  war,  she  quietly  and  firmly   took  her 
position  upon  the  same  dais  with  Europe  and  Asia. 
To  her  eternal  honor  among  the  good  and  the  just 
of  all  the  earth,  and  to  the  lasting  humiliation  of 
the  British  Isles,  this  prodigy  among  the  govern- 
ments of  mankind  was  the  first  to  unrol  the  magna 
charta  under  which  the  merchant  and  the  priesthood 
—  as  well  the  native  as  the  foreign  —  were  hence- 
forth   to   dwell   together   in   unity   and   friendship. 
Without  the  firing  of  a  single  shot,  or  the  crossing 
of  a  single  bayonet,  the  stars  and  stripes,  in  the  calm 


CHIJVA  AJYD  THE  CHINESE.  27 

but  proud  consciousness  of  a  giant's  strength,  waved 
over  the  treaty  ports  of  China. 

It  must  not  be  supposed,  however,  that  this  trans- 
action came  of  itself.  The  Portuguese,  the  Span- 
iards, the  Dutch,  the  English  and  the  French,  suc- 
cessively and  in  turn,  had  penetrated  the  country 
from  the  Indian  Ocean.  The  Russians  had  travers- 
ed Tartary  and  Mongolia,  and  crossed  from  inland 
the  boundaries  of  the  Celestial  Kingdom.  The  mis- 
sionary of  the  Christian  religion,  with  different  forms 
of  worship,  had  wandered  into  different  parts  of  the 
Empire,  and  mingling  with  the  people,  became  more 
or  less  familiar  with  their  language,  disposition  and 
customs.  From  all  these  sources,  the  Chinese  in  re- 
turn, by  their  inquisitiveness  and  aptitude  to  learn 
and  imitate,  acquired  much  knowledge  of  the  char- 
acter and  resources  of  Europe  and  America.  Their 
mechanism,  philosophy,  and  theology  were  of  a  dif- 
ferent type ;  and  preferred  and  venerated  for  anti- 
quity, had  been  handed  down  from  generation  to 
generation,  from  a  mythological  age.  It  would  have 
been  in  contravention  of  the  usual  laws  of  humanity 
and  the  natural  principles  that  usually  govern  the 
actions  of  mankind,  if  the  Chinese  had  acted  other- 
wise.    But,  nevertheless,  intercourse  with  the  "out- 


23  OBSERVATIONS    OJV 

side  barbarian  "  however  restricted,  tended  to  weak- 
en  if  it  did  not  remove,  the  barrier  that  separated 
the  races ;  and  while  the  merchants  of  the  various 
countries  were  carrying  on  a  mutually  satisfactory 
trade,  and  the  disciples  of  the  Christian  religion  were 
quietly  disseminating  the  precepts  of   our  Savior, 
the  enlightenment  of  Christian  civilization  impercep- 
tibly permeated  the  mind  of  stoicism  and  idolatry, 
and  awakened  the  attention  of  the  Chinese  to  the  fact 
that  there  were  other  countries  and  populations,  oth- 
er governments  and  institutions,  not  tributary  and 
wholly  independent  of  their  own,  in  other  and  distant 
parts  of  the  globe.     Hence,  the  Chinese  rulers,  and 
the  people,  if  they  had  not  imbibed  more  or  less  de- 
sire to  improve   their   relations  with  the  Western 
hemisphere,  at  least  wrere  apparently  willing  to  do 
so,  and  were  the  better  prepared  and  able  to  com- 
prehend the  necessity  of  some  convention  between 
the  several  governments  regulating  the  intercourse 
of  the  people  with  each  other,  and  prescribing  the 
relation  of  one   to  the  other,  and  the  rights    and 
duties  of  all.     The  arrangements,  both  verbal  and 
written,  that  had  theretofore  from  time  to  time  been 
made,  were  very  imperfect,  and  occasioned  much  dis 
pute  and  trouble.     The  opium  war  with  Great  Bri- 


CHLXA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  29 

tain  was  the  sequence  of  ill-digested  and  patched- 
U£  treaty  stipulations,  full  of  loop  holes,  and  so  de- 
signed and  left  by  both  parties,  and  neither  party 
intending  to  act  in  good  faith  further  than  necessity 
and  present  interests  might  require.  Such  a  line  of 
policy  was  short-sighted  on  the  part  at  least  of  the 
foreigner,  as  it  tended  to  lower  the  foreign  standard 
of  right  and  integrity  in  the  eyes  of  the  Chinese, 
who, —  officials  and  unofficial  —  were  always  on  the 
watch  to  overreach  and  cheat  in  trade,  and  ready  to 
evade  the  stipulations  upon  the  smallest  pretext. 


30  OBSERVATIONS    OJV 


CHAPTER  IV. 


FOREIGN  TRADE  OP  CANTON. 


f^\ ANTON,  thus  far  in  all  the  foreign  intercourse 
**  of  China  with  Western  nations,  had  been  the  chief 
emporium  of  trade,  and  the  principal  centre  of  evan- 
gelical effort.  Here  were  the  leading  factories  of 
the  foreign  merchants,  and  the  chief  seat  of  mission- 
ary authority.  Here  were  the  inlet  and  outlet  of 
merchandize  as  it  was  imported  and  exported  from 
and  to  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe.  Here  prop- 
erty to  the  value  of  over  150,000.000  of  dollars  annu- 
ally changed  ownership ;  and  here  ships  were  con- 
stantly arriving  with  the  productions  of  Europe  and 
America,  and  departing  heavily  laden  with  rich  car- 
goes of  the  teas  and  silks  of  Asia.  But  now  the  circle 
of  legitimate  trade  was  to  be  enlarged.  Other  parts 
were  to  be  essayed,  and  other  fields  gleaned,  and 
both  merchant  and  missionary  sighed  for  the  anxious- 
ly looked-for  harvest  in  the  dim  distance  before 
them. 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  31 


CHAPTER  V. 

THE  GENERAL  FEATURES  OF  CHINA. 

IN  treating  of  this  extensive  and  important  coun- 
try, it  will  be  useful  to  take  a  general  survey 
of  its  natural  qualities  and  geographical   features. 
These  are  distinguished  by  their  grandeur  and  vari- 
ety.    It  has  regions  that  bask  beneath  the  brightest 
rays  of  a  tropical  sun,  and  others  that  partake  of  the 
dreariness  of  the  polar  world.     The  varying  degrees 
of  elevation   produce   here   the  same  changes   that 
arise  elsewhere  from  change  of  position  on  the  earth's 
surface.       Its   plains   and   dales   yield   the   double 
harvests  and  the  luxuriant  foliage  of  the  torrid  zone. 
Its    undulating   hills  and  lofty   mountains  —  often 
terraced  even  to  the  extreme  summits  —  bring  forth 
the  fruits  and  grains   of  the   temperate   climates, 
whilst  the  lower  steppes  and  heights  are  covered  with 
the  groves  of  the   tea   and   mulberry.     The  upper 


32  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

steeps  of  its  mountain  ranges  are  clothed  in  the 
south  with  tallow,  sandal,  camphor,  and  other  valu- 
able tropical  trees  and  woods,  and  in  the  north  with 
the  pine  and  hemlock  of  the  Arctic  zone.  We  do 
not  in  China,  as  in  Africa  and  the  polar  regions,  see 
nature  under  one  uniform  aspect ;  on  the  contrary, 
we  have  to  trace  her  gradual,  yet  rapid  transitions 
between  the  most  opposite  extremes  that  can  exist  on 
the  surface  of  the  same  planet.  It  is,  as  it  were,  an 
epitome  of  the  whole  earth.  It  is  more  prolific  in 
some  parts  than  in  others.  This  occurs,  not  so  much 
because  of  climate  or  locality,  as  of  use  and  age. 
Approaching  China  from  the  southward,  we  are  sur- 
prised at  the  barren  and  uninviting  aspect  of  the 
country.  We  behold  hills  and  an  undulating  sur- 
face of  land  stretching  away  as  far  as  the  eye  can 
discern,  without  verdure,  and  sun-burnt  —  the  rocks 
worn  smooth  by  the  elements,  the  very  stones  cover- 
ed with  moss  —  the  earth  itself  blackened  and  with- 
ered and  wrinkled  with  old  age.  The  visitor  feels 
that  he  is  now  indeed  in  an  old,  a  very  old  country, 
and  this  sensation  creeps  all  over  him.  Everything 
looks  old.  The  people,  no  matter  of  what  age,  both 
afloat  and  ashore,  the  boats,  the  san-pans,  the  junks, 
the  luggers,  though  now  launched  upon  the  waters 


CHINA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  33 

for  the  first  time,  all  seem  hoary  with  time,  and 
then,  struggling  to  throw  off  this  nightmare  pressing 
so  heavily  upon  the  mind,  the  eye  contracts  its  vis- 
ion from  a  survey  of  country  and  water,  and  light- 
ing upon  humanity,  catches  a  rapid  glimpse  of  its 
covering  ;  and  the  visitor  —  fresh  from  the  life-giving 
and  soul-inspiring  country  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  globe  —  bewildered  with  the  raiment  and  cos- 
tumes of  thousands  of  human  beings  before  him,  at 
once  bethinks  himself  of  what  he  has  read  and  heard 
of  ancient  times,  and  involuntarily  begins  to  fancy 
that  his  Charon,  instead  of  ferrying  him  some  eight- 
een thousands  of  miles  from  one  hemisphere  to 
another,  actually  has  jumped  the  wide  gulf  that  di- 
vides ancient  and  modern  times,  and  in  a  jiffy  intro- 
duced him  into  the  audience  chamber  of  the  Patri- 
archs of  antiquity ! 

These  romantic  conceptions,  however,  soon  turn 
out  to  be  illusory.  Upon  a  closer  examination,  and 
rambling  away  from  the  coast  into  the  interior,  the 
traveler  soon  discerns  that  he  is  among  a  live  com- 
munity ;  and,  though  clad  in  habiliments  totally  un- 
like those  worn  to-day  in  his  own  country,  that  even 
this  community  is  fresh  and  vigorous,  and  ready  for 

all  the  associations  of  thought  and  action.     He  soon 

2* 


34  OBSERVATIONS  OJ\T 

learns  that  he  is  in  one  of  the  most  remarkable  re- 
gions that  exist  on  the  surface  of  the  globe.  He 
finds  that  the  varied  grandeur  of  its  scenery,  with 
the  rich  and  copious  productions  of  its  soil,  if  equal- 
led, are  not  surpassed  in  any  other  country.  He 
discovers  also,  that  it  is  extremely  probable  that  it 
was,  if  not  the  first,  at  least  one  of  the  earliest  seats 
of  civilization,  laws,  arts,  and  of  all  the  improve- 
ments of  social  life.  And  yet  he  learns  that  these 
have  at  no  period  attained  to  the  same  pitch  of  ad- 
vancement as  among  the  nations  of  the  West,  but 
have,  nevertheless,  been  developed  in  very  original 
and  peculiar  forms,  displaying  human  nature  under 
the  most  striking  and  singular  aspect. 

The  strong  interest  which  China  in  itself  is  thus 
calculated  to  excite,  must  to  us  Americans  be  greatly 
heightened  because  of  its  nearness  to  our  shores. 
Since  the  acquisition  of  California,  the  distance 
apart,  as  the  bird  flies  across  the  Pacific  Ocean,  does 
not  exceed  seven  thousand  miles. 

Of  all  the  Treaty  Powers,  with  the  exception  of 
Russia,  China  and  America  are  the  nearest  neigh- 
bors, and  we  shall  presently  see  more  similarity  of 
thought  and  action  than  at  first  glance  would  appear 
probable  between  a  Christian  and  pagan  nation. 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  35 


CHAPTER  VI. 


THE   YANGTZE  KIANG. 


rpHE  heart  of  China  —  the  chief  region  of  her 
J-  matchless  fertility,  and  once  the  seat  of  her  Em- 
perors, is  composed  of  the  large  country  watered  by 
the  Yangtze  Kiang,  her  great  river,  and  is  known  as 
the  great  plain,  all  over  this  extensive  empire. 

The  Yangtze  pours  through  the  valley  for  a  dis- 
tance of  over  fifteen  hundred  miles,  a  continually 
widening  stream,  which,  during  the  rainy  season, 
covers  a  great  extent  with  its  fertilizing  inundation. 
From  this  deep,  rich,  well-watered  soil,  the  sun, 
beating  with  direct  and  intense  rays,  calls  forth  an 
almost  unrivalled  power  of  vegetation,  and  makes 
the  lower  valley  yield  at  least  twice  a  year  bountiful 
crops  of  rice  and  cotton,  and  wheat  and  beans. 
Large  and  populous  cities  dot  the  country,  and  are 
the  marts  of  commerce  and  manufactures. 


36  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

As  if  to  ensure  an  exuberant  fertility  to  the  soil, 
the  Yangtze  is  not  solely  dependent  upon  the  rains 
of  autumn  and  spring  for  its  volume  of  water,  but 
is  annually  supplied  from  the  snows  of  Thibet  and 
Tartary ;  and  when  these  reach  the  great  valley,  the 
water  attains  a  still  greater  height,  and  the  river  ex- 
pands into  a  wide  sea,  overflowing  its  banks  on  either 
hand  for  miles. 

These  never-failing  productions  supply  the  imme- 
diate wants  of  a  population  of  over  100,000,000  of 
souls.  Not  enough  rice,  however. —  the  great  staff 
of  Eastern  life  —  is  supplied  from  this  source,  and 
the  people  necessarily  look  to  Siam  to  furnish  the 
deficit. 

Every  year,  for  some  time  past,  from  fifty  to  sixty 
ships  come  from  the  land  of  the  elephant  and  lion 
laden  with  rice,  and  always  find  a  market  in  China, 
and  especially  in  central  China.  The  large  outlay 
for  this  added  to  the  millions  of  taels  annually  ex- 
pended for  the  opium  of  India,  would  long  since  have 
impoverished  the  country,  and  in  the  end  reduced  it 
to  a  state  of  beggary  and  famine,  among  the  high  as 
well  as  the  lower  classes,  were  it  not  for  the  teas 
and  silks.  These  commodities  always  commanding 
ready  buyers  and  remunerative  prices,  according  to 


CHINA   AND    THE    CHINESE.  37 

quality,  more  than  balances  the  account  and  leaves  a 
surplus  for  the  maintenance  of  this  vast  population. 
As  the  provinces  in  the  south  supply  a  large  export 
of  sugar —  in  the  north  of  bean  cake,  which  is  used 
for  both  provender  and  manure  —  and  all  portions  of 
the  country  of  the  fruits  and  vegetables  indigenous 
to  their  several  latitudes,  embracing  those  usually 
grown  in  tropical  countries,  together  with  innumer- 
able rivers,  bays  and  inlets,  abounding  prolifically 
with  fish,  both  scale  and  shell,  of  the  best  quality, 
and  readily  obtained,  whilst  the  herds  of  cattle  and 
sheep  on  land  with  the  poultry  and  game,  are  always 
forthcoming  to  fill  the  larder ;  all  these  supplies,  the 
historv  of  centuries  shows  are  sufficient  for  the  wants 
and  necessities  of  this  vast  multitude  of  people  now 
numbering,  according  to  the  records  of  the  census  at 
Pekin,  full  400,000,000,  and  comprising  one  third  of 
all  the  human  race  on  the  face  of  the  whole  earth. 


38  OBSERVATIONS    OJ\T 


CHAPTER  VII. 


THE   SHEPHERDS    OF   CHINA. 


THE  mountain  scenery  of  China  in  general,  though 
wanting  the  features  which  invest  those  of  the 
United  States  with  such  awful  and  sublime  charac- 
ter, is  nevertheless  beautiful,  striking  and  picturesque. 
Rarely  ever  rising  above  the  limits  of  vegetation,  its 
highest  summits  are  crowned  with  woods  and  verdure ; 
though  over  a  considerable  portion  there  is  distribu- 
ted rock,  forest,  and  jungle,  still  the  greater  part  is 
under  cultivation.  The  pick-axe,  the  iron  rake  and 
the  hoe,  are  in  constant  requisition,  and  more  used 
in  breaking  up  the  soil  and  meliorating  it  for  the 
seed  and  the  plant,  than  the  plow  and  the  harrow. 
The  ground  whether  sown  or  planted,  is  usually 
raised  into  beds  like  those  usually  seen  in  American 
gardens,  and  is  daily  manured  from  the  time  the  bed 
is  finished  till  the  produce,  whatever  it  may  be,  has 


CHIJVA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  39 

attained  maturity.  The  use  of  not  a  single  foot  of 
land  is  overlooked,  nor  its  tillage  omitted.  Every- 
thing, animal  and  vegetable,  that  is  not  used  in  some 
other  way,  is  turned  to  the  account  of  manure,  and 
sprinkled  over  the  earth. 

There  are  no  fences  usually,  not  even  the  hedges 
so  common  in  Europe.  The  cattle  and  sheep  are 
stalled  most  of  the  time.  Occasionally  they  are  led 
out  to  clip  the  isolated  tufts  of  grass,  or  glean  some 
wheat  or  bean  field  lately  harvested,  or  browse 
upon  the  cotton  shrub  after  the  last  picking.  They 
are  watched  lest  they  may  go  into  forbidden  ground, 
and  in  due  time  are  returned  to  the  stable.  The 
children  are  the  shepherds  of  China. 


40  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

LAND  TITLE.  —  CURRENCY.  —  THE  EMPEROR'S  GENEROSITY. 

ALL  the  land  in  the  Empire  belongs  to  the  empe- 
ror. It  is  leased  to  the  occupant.  The  title 
deed  is  a  perpetual  lease,  subject  to  forfeiture  in  case 
the  annual  rent  of  1500  cash  per  mow  is  not  paid. 
This  cash  is  a  copper  coin  of  the  size  of  the  old 
American  cent,  except  that  it  is  thinner,  and  is  coin- 
ed at  the  Imperial  mint,  and  is  the  usual  currency 
for  the  settlement  of  small  balances  arising  from 
work  or  trade,  among  the  generality  of  the  people. 
A  square  hole  is  made  through  the  centre,  and  are 
thus  conveniently  strung  together;  and  when  car- 
ried are  usually  thrown  in  strings  around  the  neck 
and  over  the  shoulders.  The  string  is  tied  in  knots, 
leaving  space  enough  for  one  hundred  between  each 
knot.  This  is  done  for  convenience  and  rapidity  of 
count,  when  received  or  paid  out. 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  41 

The  value  of  this  cash  for  use,  as  contrasted  with 
the  currency  of  other  countries,  fluctuates  from  day 
to  day  according  to  the  supply  aud  demand.  The 
usual  market  value  in  most  parts  of  the  Empire, 
however,  is  the  one  thousandth  part  of  a  Mexican 
dollar,  though  twelve  hundred  are  frequently  realized 
by  the  lucky  holder. 

It  must  not  be  taken  for  granted  that  this  curren- 
cy is  continually  carried  in  much  quantity  about  the 
person.     It  is  kept  in  the  coffer  at  the  house,  and 
the  necessary  quantity  dealt  out  as  occasion  may  re- 
quire.    It  is  a  rare   occurrence   for   foreigners  to 
carry  money  about  their  person.     The  Chinese  some- 
times have  a  few  silver  dollars  in  a  belt  about  their 
waist  and  underneath  all  their  clothing,  and  perhaps 
a  few  cash   for  the   purchase  of  some  knick-knack 
that  may  come  under  their  observation.     But,  usu- 
ally, the  foreigner's  treasure  is  in  the  vault  securely 
constructed  in  his   house,  or  iron   safe ;  whilst  the 
Chinese,  having  melted  the  silver  dollar  and  extract- 
ed all  the  alloy,  put  it  into  a  mould  called  a  shoe, 
(from  its  resemblance  to  a  Chinese  shoe)  and  careful- 
ly hoard  it  in  the  earth  until  needed  in  the  transac- 
tions of  business  and  commerce.     This  silver  is  called 
and  known  as  sycee,  and  the  shoes  vary  in  value  and 
size,  from  one  tael  to  ten  thousand  taels. 


42  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

The  currency  of  China  is  of  decimal  denomina- 
tion, like  that  of  the  United  States,  and  divided  into 
as  many  parts,  though  not  of  corresponding  values. 
Thus,  ten  cash  make  a  candarin,  ten  candarin  make  a 
mace,  ten  mace  make  a  tael  —  the  cash,  candarin, 
mace,  and  tael,  corresponding  with  the  mill,  cent, 
dime  and  dollar.  One  tael  is  equal  in  value  to  one 
dollar  and  forty-eight  cents  of  the  currency  of  the 
United  States.  Probably,  if  the  United  States 
dollar  had  no  alloy,  and  like  the  tael,  was  pure  sil- 
ver, their  values  would  correspond. 

The  currency  of  China,  it  has  been  supposed,  was 
merely  one  of  account,  the  only  circulating  medium 
being  the  copper  cash,  already  referred  to.  This 
idea  was  prevalent,  no  doubt,  because  at  the  ports 
opened  to  foreign  trade,  no  other  denomination  was 
obtained.  But,  the  tael  and  the  half  tael,  composed 
of  pure  silver,  have  recently  come  to  the  observation 
of  foreigners  at  the  north,  in  the  vicinity  of  Pekin, 
with  the  Chinese  character  upon  the  nugget,  declar- 
ing the  value.  Well  informed  Chinese  merchants 
unquestionably  have  all  along  been  aware  of  this,  but 
true  to  the  policy  of  their  government,  of  withholding 
all  information  except  what,  from  policy  or  accident, 
may  have  been  wormed  out  of  them,  they  studiously 
kept  this  fact  to  themselves. 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  43 

Mexican  dollars  are  used  more  than  any  other 
foreign  coin.  They  reach  China,  principally,  through 
England.  There  is  not  much  gold  coin  in  circula- 
tion. The  Chinese  do  not  like  it  as  money.  It 
does  not  pass  at  its  par  value,  as  denominated  at  the 
mint.  When  used  in  trade,  it  passes  at  a  barter,  like 
merchandise ;  and  the  Chinaman  is  loth  to  allow  a 
greater  equivalent  than  the  market  value  of  the  met- 
al, according  to  its  weight.  The  Chinese  melt  the 
coin,  and  use  the  metal,  after  extracting  the  alloy,  in 
various  kinds  of  mechanism. 

All  the  merchants  of  position  and  capital,  employ 
a  shroff.  His  principal  duties  are  to  shroff  the  mon- 
ey when  received  at  his  house,  whether  in  the  shape 
of  coin  or  sycee.  He  stamps  his  name  upon  each 
piece  of  silver,  be  it  a  dollar  or  a  lump  of  sycee,  if 
the  same  is  genuine  :  and  it  is  then  called  shroffed, 
and  passes  without  question.  It  is,  however,  a  too 
common  habit  to  nip  or  shave  the  shroffed  piece  of 
silver  afterwards,  as  the  same  passes  from  hand  to 
hand ;  and  allowance  therefor  is  required.  Silver 
is  a  precious  metal,  and  the  quantity  nipped  or  shav- 
en off,  be  it  ever  so  little,  has  a  value.  This  prac- 
tice gave  rise  to  a  Chinese  saying,  that  "  silver  will 
stick  to  your  fingers." 


44  OBSERVATIONS  OjY 

The  Chinese  land  measure  is  divided  into  Maou 


Foo-Haou.  and  Li  —  three  maou  being  equal  in 
quantity  to  one  acre,  as  measured  in  the  United 
States.  The  annual  Imperial  rent  therefor,  paid 
for  the  use  of  land,  is  about  four  dollars  and  fifty 
cents  American  currency,  per  acre.  This  ground 
rent  can  be  paid  by  the  native,  in  case  of  necessity, 
with  the  produce  of  the  soil,  as  valued  by  the  Te- 
paou  of  his  district.  It  takes  the  place  of  the  land 
tax  as  levied  in  the  nations  of  the  West,  and  is  the 
only  stated  charge  from  the  government  which  the 
occupier  is  compelled  to  pay  throughout  the  year. 
If  an  unusual  calamity  occurs  in  the  district,  not 
occasioned  by  the  people  themselves,  and  causing  un- 
usual distress,  the  emperor  has  sometimes  been  pleas- 
ed to  remit  a  portion  if  not  the  whole  of  the  rent. 
This  clemency  would  seem  in  the  eyes  of  the  stran- 
ger, to  be  caused  entirely  by  feelings  of  kindness, 
and  generosity.  The  unfortunate  and  uneducated 
Chinese  undoubtedly  so  view  it.  It  would  be  the 
part  of  charity  for  the  educated  Chinese,  as  well  as 
the  historian  of  every  country,  so  to  view  it.  The 
times  and  circumstances,  however,  when  and  under 
which  such  kindness  has  been  exhibited,  indicates 
that  it  proceeds  from  a  dread  of  the  effects  of  fam- 
ine and  turbulence  among  the  people  ;  and  philo- 


CHIJVA   AJVD    THE    CHINESE.  45 

sophically  calculating  the  cost  to  the  Imperial  ex- 
chequer of  quelling  an  emeute,  and  coolly  poising 
the  scale  as  it  balances  between  the  rent  and  the  out- 
lay, the  astute  and  cold-hearted  prompter  believes 
the  throne  of  his  majesty  points  to  the  latter,  and 
the  vermillion  pencil  straightway  announces  the  re- 
sult of  this  philanthropic  deliberation.  It  is  pro- 
claimed at  Pekin  and  in  every  provincial  capital,  in 
the  largest  sized  hieroglyphics,  upon  sheets  of  yellow 
paper  of  mammoth  size,  and  commanding  every 
dweller  in  the  "  Middle  Kingdom  "  and  the  Barba- 
rians outside,  to  give  ear  and  take  heed  of  this  most 
merciful  condescension  and  goodness  of  their  most 
august  and  kind-hearted  Father. 

In  this  spirit  is  it  commonly  received  and  read  by 
the  people ;  and  lest  its  remembrance  may  quietly 
wear  off  and  fade  away  from  the  memory,  no  conve- 
nient occasion  to  recal  the  event  is  lost  by  the  small 
button  Mandarins,  who  expatiate  upon  the  theme, 
from  generation  to  generation,  until  the  pall  of  ob- 
livion has  encircled  it  forever. 

These  proclamations,  no  matter  upon  what  subject, 
always  end  with  the  words  "  tremble  and  obey." 
The  injunction  is  literally  respected  by  the  masses. 
They  are  uneducated.  They  learn  to  believe  that 
the  rulers  must  be  obeyed.     They  do  not  stop  to  in- 


46  OBSERVATIONS    ON 

quire  into  the  authority,  or  the  means  at  hand  to  en- 
force it.  They  are  not  versed  in  the  maxims  of  gov- 
ernment. They  are  never  asked  their  views.  They 
never  vote.  They  do  not  discuss  the  doings  of  offi- 
cials. They  simply  obey.  They  are  the  automa- 
tons of  authority.  They  believe  that,  willing  or  un- 
willing, they  are  subordinate  to  the  Mandarins,  and 
that  the  "  vermillion  pencil "  gives  these  officials 
the  right  and  power  to  govern.  With  this,  they  as- 
sociate in  their  minds  the  idea  which  is  always  kept 
prominent, —  that  the  Emperor,  on  ascending  the 
dragon  throne,  becomes  more  than  a  mere  mortal, 
and  possesses  a  divine  right  to  wield  the  sceptre. 
This  is  sufficient.  They  make  no  further  inquiry, 
and  are  passive  slaves.  Their  desire  and  chief  care 
is  to  keep  out  of  the  clutches  of  the  Mandarins  ;  for 
they  know  the  severe  punishment  that  will  be  inflict- 
ed for  disobedience. 

The  Chinese  laws  visit  the  offender  with  corporal 
punishment.  Whoever  sheds  blood,  or  in  commit- 
ting a  theft  breaks  an  enclosure,  must  expiate  the 
offence  with  his  own  blood  —  that  is,  his  head  is  cut 
off.  If  he  escapes,  the  law  is  cheated  of  its  due. 
There  are  no  pardons,  no  reprieves,  no  benefit  of 
clergy,  unless  superinduced  by  bribery. 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  47 


CHAPTER  IX. 

THE  AVOCATIONS  OF  THE  CHINESE. 

THE  Chinese  are  not  naturally  a  fighting  people. 
They  prefer  work  and  the  peaceful  avocations 
of  trade.  Whatever  of  fighting  qualities  they  pos- 
sess, comes  from  the  Tartar  blood. 

If  they  are  artisans,  traders  or  merchants,  they 
collect  together  in  large  villages  and  cities,  the  for- 
mer more  or  less  protected  from  external  enemies 
by  stockades  and  mud  forts,  and  the  latter,  by  high 
and  thick  stone  walls.  If  they  are  farmers,  instead 
of  living  in  isolated  farm  houses,  they  huddle  to- 
gether in  families  of  tens  and  twenties,  and  with  as 
many  tenements,  and  a  suitable  number  of  barns  and 
out  houses,  dwell  in  unity  and  greater  security. 
Their  farms  are  a  greater  or  less  distance  from  their 
hamlet  within  the  range  of  a  mile,  or  three  li  —  the 
equivalent  of  an  English  mile — and  thither  they 


48  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

daily  repair  to  work  the  soil.  Ditches  usually  are 
the  lines  of  their  possessions,  and  for  aught  that  ap- 
pears they  live  in  harmony.  If  they  are  mere  la- 
borers —  commonly  called  coolies  —  they  do  the  car- 
rying of  burdens  both  in  town  and  country.  There 
are  no  carts,  trucks  or  wagons,  for  the  land  convey- 
ance of  merchandise.  It  is  borne,  however  light  or 
ponderous,  from  and  to  the  store  houses,  called  in 
China  godowns,  by  the  coolies.  They  also  take  the 
place  of  the  beast  in  the  land  conveyance  of  passen- 
gers who  can  afford  it,  and  prefer  riding  to  walking. 
The  vehicle  used  is  called  in  common  parlance  "a 
chair,"  and  is  known  to  foreigners  as  the  Sedan  or 
Palanquin.  This  mode  of  traveling  by  the  officials 
and  the  opulent  classes,  has  been  in  use  in  the  East 
"from  the  time  when  the  memory  of  man  runneth 
not  to  the  contrary."  If  they  are  born  upon  boats 
and  vessels,  as  thousands  and  hundreds  of  thousands 
of  them  are,  they  are  apt  to  continue  in  the  same 
employment  for  want  of  a  better,  to  the  end  of  their 
lives.  It  has  been  said  that  one  eighth  of  the  entire 
population  are  born,  live  and  die,  on  the  waters. 
Their  san-pans  and  luggers  are  used  in  the  ports  and 
and  along  the  inlets  of  the  coast,  and  far  into  the  in- 
terior on  the  creeks  and  rivers,  which  meander  the 


CHIJVA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  49 

land  in  every  direction,  carrying  passengers  and  lug- 
gage and  merchandise.  Large  numbers  of  them  are 
engaged  in  fishing,  and  frequently  go  off  many  miles 
from  the  coast.  The  Junks  are  the  largest  in  size, 
and  generally  have  three  slender  masts.  This  class 
of  vessels  is  mostly  engaged  in  the  coasting  trade 
along  the  whole  extent  of  China,  and  not  unfrequent- 
ly  extend  the  voyage,  as  far  as  Siam  and  Malacca. 
They  move  slow,  and  if  it  is  to  the  countries  just 
mentioned,  one  voyage  suffices  for  the  year.  The  own- 
er is  usually  aboard  as  master  or  supercarg  0,  and  the 
profits  made  on  the  exchange  of  cargo  frequently  con- 
stitute a  part  of  the  freight-moneys  or  earnings  of 
the  vessel.  It  is  not  a  strange  occurrence  for  five 
thousand  of  these  boats  and  vessels  to  be  lying  at 
the  same  time  in  the  harbor  of  Shanghai.  Well  in- 
formed persons  have  sometimes  reckoned  the  num- 
ber as  high  as  ten  thousand,  and  have  not  been  wide 
of  the  mark.  It  is  amazing  to  behold  the  water 
carriages  and  small  craft  that  congregate  at  and  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  various  ports,  their  number  is  so 
large,  and  apparently  so  full  of  business  and  em- 
ployment. And  then  the  number  of  persons  aboard 
and  the  manner  in  which  they  live !  An  entire  fam- 
ily is  raised  up  and  live  on  the  same  boat  which  one 


50  OBSERVATIONS  OjY 

would  fancy  hardly  large  enough  for  the  convenient 
accommodation  of  one  person.  There  they  cook, 
wash,  sleep,  and  work,  year  after  year,  rear  a  nu- 
merous progeny,  and  have  their  poultry  and  ducks, 
their  dog  and  cat,  the  same  as  if  living  on  shore. 
If  the3r  want  fish,  they  drop  the  hook  or  throw  the 
net  into  the  water,  wherever  the  boat  may  happen 
to  be,  and  in  a  trice  catch  enough  for  their  meal. 
With  fish  they  can  secure  their  rice  and  the  neces- 
sary quantity  of  vegetables ;  if  not,  they  can  sell  a 
chicken  or  a  duck  or  some  eggs,  and  invariably  pro- 
cure what  is  indispensably  requisite  for  their  suste- 
nance and  comfort.  Compared  with  the  general 
mass  of  the  people  of  civilized  countries,  their  wants 
are  few.  Unaccustomed  to  the  luxuries  of  wealth, 
they  do  not  desire  them.  It  is  a  part  of  the  Divine 
economy  that  this  is  so  ;  otherwise  millions  would 
starve,  and  violence  and  anarchy  would  necessarily 
prevail. 

The  national  and  political  condition  of  the  differ- 
ent regions  of  China  varies  strikingly,  according  to 
the  peculiarities  in  their  physical  circumstances  and 
the  character  of  the  viceroys  sent  from  the  chief 
seat  of  government,  to  rule  over  them. 

The  valley  of  the  Yangtze  river  was  the  seat  of 


CHINA   AJYB    THE    CHINESE.  51 

the  Empire  for  many  centuries,  and  that  too,  when 
its  greatness  and  splendor  eclipsed  those  of  almost 
every  other  country.  It  was  populous  and  wealthy, 
and  avarice  and  ambition  were  attracted  from  afar 
by  the  fame  of  its  wealth  and  splendor. 

The  long  list  of  emperors  who,  for  forty  centu- 
ries at  least,  if  not  fifty-five,  as  some  traditions 
have  it,  sat  enthroned  in  the  Celestial  palaces  of 
Nankin,  these  mighty  potentates  —  the  extent  of  their 
jurisdiction  varying  at  different  eras  —  very  natu- 
rally might  have  expected  that  China,  separated 
from  other  countries  on  the  one  hand  by  a  vast 
ocean,  and  on  the  other  by  lofty  mountains,  and 
dense  forests,  and  wide  deserts,  could  rest  secure  from 
foreign  conquest  or  dominion.  The  student  of  his- 
tory finds  much  difficulty  in  forming  a  correct  esti- 
mate of  the  character  of  these  extraordinary  mon- 
archs.  Their  crimes,  if  viewed  through  the  stereo- 
scope of  Christian  morality,  are  written  in  too  deep 
and  legible  characters  to  remain  concealed.  In  the 
administration  of  justice,  the  general  tenor  of  their 
lives  are  apparently  marked  by  many  virtues.  As- 
siduous and  impartial,  yet  subject  to  frightful  fits  of 
caprice  and  passion.  Their  charities  were  scattered 
with  a  liberal  hand,  and  an  unbounded  concern  at  all 


52  OBSERVATIONS    OJY 

times  shown  for  the  welfare  of  their  people.  Sur- 
rounded by  the  most  ample  means  of  licentious  in- 
dulgence, yet  as  austere  and  free  from  censure  as  the 
rulers  of  other  nations.  Assuming  to  be  the  repre- 
sentative of  heaven  on  earth,  each  surrounded  him- 
self with  a  halo  of  religious  professions  and  zeal  — 
such  as  it  was  —  which  he  maintained  through  life, 
and  which  was  cheerfully  recognized  by  the  myriads 
of  people  over  whom  he  held  sway.  But  the  mani- 
fest exaggeration  with  which  it  was  sometimes  exhib- 
ited, and  still  more  from  its  having  been  made  an  in- 
strument of  ambition  and  even  of  crimes,  induce  the 
suspicion  if  not  belief,  that  there  may  have  been  be- 
neath all  this  austerity,  courtesy  and  kindness,  a 
good  deal  of  interested  and  hypocritical  pretension. 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  53 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE  EMPIRE  —  THE  EMPERORS  —  KIND  OF  GOVERNMENT  —  IMPERI- 
AL ABODE  —  THE  EXECUTIVE  OFFICERS  —  THEIR  REGALIA  AND  DU- 
TIES —  THE  ARCHIVES. 

TI1HE  -  country  usually  known  as  China,  is  divided 
JL  into  eighteen  provinces.  The  Empire  embraces 
these  provinces,  which  constitute  the  main  body  of 
the  Imperial  Government,  and  also  as  dependencies 
those  regions  known  as  Corea,  Mantchooria,  Mongo- 
lia, Hi,  Soongaria,  East  Toorkistan,  Kokonor,  Thi- 
bet, and  numerous  islands  adjacent  to  the  sea  coast, 
the  largest  of  which  are  Hainan,  and  Formosa.  The 
two  latter  islands  and  Mantchooria  are  practically  a 
part  of  the  Empire,  whilst  the  others  do  little  more 
than  profess  a  nominal  allegiance.  The  area  of 
this  vast  Empire  covers  5,000,000  of  square  miles, 
nearly  equal  to  one  tenth  of  the  habitable  globe,  with 
one  third  of  the  entire  population,  and  is  situated 
between  the  18th  and  56th  parallels  of  north  latitude, 


54  OBSERVATIONS  OjV 

and  the  TOtli  and  144th  degrees  of  east  longitude, 
reckoning  from  Greenwich. 

The  population,  according  to  the  census  taken  by 
the  Chinese  has  increased  as  follows  : 


1757.  .  . 

i 

.  190,348,328 

1780,  .  .  . 

277,543,434 

1812,  .  . 

.  361,693,179 

1841,  .  .  . 

413,457,311 

Last  Census, 

414,686,994 

The  Tepaous  are  the  persons  who  take  the  census, 
and  make  their  respective  returns  to  the  Governor 
of  the  Province,  who  forwards  the  same  to  the  pro- 
per bureau  at  Pekin.  The  Tepaou  is  an  officer  of  a 
small  district  in  each  town  or  city,  whose  chief  busi- 
ness is  to  keep  a  record  of  the  titles  to  land,  note 
the  change  of  ownership,  and  collect  the  land  tax. 
This  tax  is  the  annual  ground  rent  to  the  Emperor, 
the  fee  always  remaining  in  him  as  the  lord  of 
the  soil.  There  does  not  appear  to  be  any  induce- 
ment for  the  Tepaous  to  swell  the  number  of  people 
in  his  district. 

The  government  of  this  great  country  centers  in 
one  person  known  in  the  English  language  as  the 
Emperor,  who  calls  himself  the  Son.  of  Heaven,  and 
accountable  only  to  heaven  for  this  stewardship.     He 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  55 

1 
professes  to  be  guided  by  a  code  of  laws  which  are 

composed  of  the  rescripts  and  statutes  of  the  Pure 
Dynasty.  But  his  will  is  law  to  all  who  bow  to 
his  sceptre.  His  subjects  view  him  as  the  father  of 
the  nation.  In  theory  the  government  is  patriarchal, 
bat  in  practice  it  is  despotic.  He  is  supposed  to 
rule  as  a  father  over  his  family,  keeping  in  view 
only  their  good,  and  allowing  the  blessings  of  his 
government  to  fall  gently  upon  all  alike,  like  the 
dew  of  heaven.  Clothing  himself  in  the  garb  of 
tiie  Holy  of  Holies,  claiming  to  be  the  supreme  pon- 
tiff on  earth  of  the  great  God  of  the  whole  uni- 
verse, he  manages  to  invest  his  person  and  habitation 
with  the  most  sacred  character.  No  one  out  of  his 
household  approaches  him  except  in  the  most  rever- 
ential manner,  and  even  those  who  are  nearest  to  his 
person  treat  him  with  the  most  obsequious  respect. 
It  is  a  favor  of  priceless  importance  to  the  subject, 
if  even  allowed  to  enter  the  gates  of  the  Imperial 
capital.  He  is  kept  at  a  distance  from  the  person 
of  the  Emperor,  for  familiarity  would  dispel  the 
awe  and  religious  illusion  that  surrounds  his  person. 
To  make  secure  from  intrusion,  the  Imperial  abode 
is  within  an  inner  circle  of  wall,  the  third  from  the 
outer   one  of  the  city.     Within    the  periphery  of 


f 


56  OBSERVATIONS  OJST 

the  outer  and  second  walls,  the  general  mass  of 
the  people  are  allowed  to  dwell  —  within  that  of 
the  second  and  the  inner  walls,  the  gentry  and 
the  wealthy.  The  Imperial  abode  is  fitted  up  in 
the  most  gorgeous  manner.  It  dazzles  and  bewil- 
ders, but  does  not  charm  the  visitor  who  may  have 
come  from  Western  civilization  to  behold  it.  Though 
the  grounds  are  covered  with  attractive  fountains, 
and  lakes,  and  cascades,  and  the  buildings  are  of 
pompous  size  and  gilded  and  decorated  as  dazzingly 
as  the  most  fanciful  of  painters  could  imagine,  yet 
it  is  not  elegant  or  beautiful.  It  is  tawdry  if  not 
ridiculous, —  the  ornaments  have  too  much  of  show 
and  too  little  of  grace.  But  all  this  gorgeousness 
attracts  the  attention  of  the  Asiatics  for  whom  it  is 
intended,  captivates  their  minds,  and  inspires  them 
with  all  the  awe  and  respect  that  is  requisite  to 
make  them  loyal  subjects,,  and  unyielding  believers 
in  the  divinity  of  their  august  master.  Therefore 
they  do  not  hesitate,  when  entering  into  his  pres- 
ence, to  humiliate  themselves- and  kotow  to  his  majesty 
by  stooping  the  body  three  times  in  quick  succession, 
and  each  time  knocking  the  floor  three  times  with 
the  forehead,  and  thus  making  the  nine  prostrations. 
The  subject  who  has  enjoyed  this  favor  is  at  once 


CHINA   JLJVD    THE    CHINESE.  57 

upon  his  return  home  a  person  of  mark  and  respect 
among  his  neighbors.  Like  the  poor  bigot  of  Mo- 
hammedanism, who  travels  from  afar  to  Mecca  for  the 
sole  purpose  of  catching  an  indistinct  glimpse  of  the 
coffin  of  his  holy  prophet,  and  then  retraces  his  steps 
to  his  kindred  and  country  with  his  faith  burning 
brighter  than  ever,  to  receive  their  attention  and  en- 
thusiasm, so  with  the  loyal  Chinaman  who  has  trav- 
eled from  his  home  perhaps  in  the  far  South,  and 
been  admitted  into  the  inner  circles  of  the  city  of 
Pekin,  returns  a  warmer  devotee,  and  inspired  with 
renewed  veneration  for  his  celestial  pontiff. 

The  Imperial  mind,  in  the  management  of  the 
government,  is  assisted  by  four  ministers  of  state  se- 
lected on  account  of  their  social  position,  education, 
and  zealous  attachment  to  the  throne,  who  form  the  in- 
terior council  chamber ;  they  are  the  Cabinet  officials, 
who  are  invested  with  the  secrets  of  the  Emperor,  and 
have  free  access  to  his  ear.  Beneath  them  are  Assist- 
ants, who  constitute  the  principal  council  of  state  rel- 
ative to  such  matters  as  may  be  laid  before  them. 

For  the  transaction  of  the  government  business  in 
detail  there  are  six  Boards,  or  Departments,  namely, 
of  Revenue,  of  Ceremonies,  of  Military  Affairs,  of 
Public  Works,  of  Crimes,  of  Censors.     There  are  ex- 

3* 


58  OBSERVATIONS    OJY 

ecutive  officers  appointed  for  the  various  Provinces, 
invested  with  the  authority  and  dignity  of  Viceroys, 
and  called  Governor  Generals,  Governors,  and  Lieu- 
tenant Governors.  The  circuit  of  jurisdiction  of 
these  officers  determines  their  official  grade.  If  it 
extends  over  two  or  more  Provinces,  they  are  styled 
Governor  Generals;  if  confined  to  one  Province, 
over  which  there  is  no  Governor  General,  then  they 
are  called  Lieutenant  Governors.  In  either  case, 
they  are  the  Emperor's  substitute  within  their  own 
Circuit,  and  are  invested  with  regal  power.  Be- 
neath these  officers  there  are  other  local  officials, 
styled  Provincial  Treasurer,  Criminal  Judge,  and 
and  Collector  of  the  Gabel,  or  salt  tax,  whose  cir- 
cuits of  jurisdiction  are  commensurate  with  the  prov- 
ince. 

Subordinate  to  these  provincial  officials  there  are 
other  officers  styled  Toutais,  or  Intendants  of  Cir- 
cuits, Cheheens  or  District  Judges,  Literary  Chan- 
cellors, Military  Commandants,  Marine  Prefects,  and 
Tepaous,  and  whose  jurisdiction  embraces  parts  of 
the  Province,  and  sometimes  are  circumscribed  to 
the  limits  of  a  single  city.  In  addition,  there  is  a 
multitude  of  police,  clerks  of  courts,  secretaries,  and 
executioners, —  in  short,  the  whole  paraphernalia  of 
an  executive  and  administrative  power. 


N 


CHIJVA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  59 

All  whose  authority  is  undivided  in  its  depart- 
ment in  a  single  province,  circuit,  or  district,  from 
the  Marine  Prefect  to  the  Governor  General,  are 
styled  Mandarins,  and  are  entitled  to  wear  a  button, 
of  which  there  are  nine  grades,  and  which  are  as 
well  the  badge  of  official  position,  as  of  the  exact 
grade,  on  the  roll  of  distinction.  The  button,  as 
it  is  called,  is  fastened  to  the  official  cap,  on  the  out- 
side, exactly  at  the  center,  of  different  colors  accord- 
ing to  the  grade,  of  an  oblong  shape,  and  usually 
made  from  some  precious  stone. 

The  cap  worn  in  cold  weather,  is  made  of  felt,  and 
in  warm  weather  of  straw,  or  very  fine  bamboo. 
It  is  of  a  conical  shape,  surmounted  with  a  red  or 
scarlet  silk  tassel,  and  a  long  feather  of  the  peacock. 
These  ornaments  and  the  button,  make  an  impos- 
ing head-dress.  In  addition,  the  Mandarin  is  clothed 
whenever  he  appears  in  public,  with  three,  or  more 
coverings  of  silk  and  satin,  over  the  entire  body, 
namely  :  the  one  next  to  the  body,  appropriately 
called  the  shirt ;  another  over  this,  well  wadded  with 
cotton  and  extending  to  the  knees,  and  appropriately 
called  the  petticoat, — another,  over  this,  extending 
to  the  ankles,  of  the  thickest  silk  crape,  or  satin, 
open  in  front,  and  fastened  together  with  silk  loops 


60  OBSERVATIONS    OJST 

and  cords ;  whilst  over  his  feet  and  limbs  are  tightly 
drawn  light  colored  silk  stockings  and  drawers.  All 
these  several  suits  of  apparel  have  much  embroidery 
and  are  encircled  with  a  girdle  at  the  waist.  Large 
and  high-top  satin  boots  are  worn  at  all  seasons,  and 
in  cold  weather,  very  heavy  and  costly  robes  of  fur. 
He  is  carried  in  a  palanquin,  borne  by  four  coolies, 
and  accompanied  by  his  guards,  the  head  one  always 
carrying  a  large  spread  scarlet-colored  umbrella,  and 
the  others,  many  silk  banners.  When  he  alights 
from  or  enters  his  palanquin,  this  cavalcade  beat  the 
gong,  and  halloo,  so  that  all  may  take  heed  of  the 
presence  of  the  official  and  make  way  for  him.  The 
multitude  chin  chin  him,  as  he  passes  along,  that  is, 
each  person  places  the  palm  of  the  two  hands  to- 
gether and  raises  and  lowers  them  together  three  or 
four  times,  as  an  act  of  obeisance. 

There  is  a  board  of  officers  at  Pekin,  whose  duty 
it  is  to  take  note  of  all  the  important  events  in 
every  province,  in  each  month.  At  the  end  of 
every  period  of  twelve  months,  commencing  with 
the  first  of  the  year,  this  general  note  of  events  for 
the  year  is  thoroughly  scrutinized ;  and  from  it  is 
culled  whatever  the  board  may  deem  important  to 
mark   the   year  in  the-  continuous  history  of   the 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  61 

country.  This  annual  compilation  is  carefully  and 
neatly  written  or  printed  on  wooden  type,  strongly 
stitched  or  tied  together,  the  seal  of  the  examining 
board  stamped  upon  the  compilation,  and  then  it  is 
put  in  the  place  appropriated  for  its  safe  keeping. 
These  annual  compilations  are  the  archives  of  the 
empire  ;  and  the  mandarins  assert  that  they  extend 
back  quite  sixty  hundred  annual  revolutions  of  the 
sun.  It  is  admitted,  however,  that  the  compilation 
of  events  occurring  before  the  transfer  of  the  seat 
of  government  from  Nankin  to  Pekin  is  not  so 
full  as  of  later  times.  It  is  supposed  that  many  of 
the  archives  were  then  lost,  but  enough  is  preserved 
to  give  more  than  a  mere  outline  of  history.  The 
student  can  find,  at  least,  each  decade  of  years. 


62  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 


CHAPTER  XL 

QUALIFICATIONS  OF  THE  MANDARINS  — THE  COURT    LANGUAGE  — 
OFFICIAL  DELINQUENCY  —  ADMINISTRATION  OF  JUSTICE. 

BY  the  laws  of  China,  the  Mandarins  must  be 
men  of  education,  they  must  be  well  posted  in 
the  maxims  and  philosophy  of  Confucius  Mencius 
and  others  of  their  sages,  and  intimately  acquainted 
with  the  rescripts  and  statutes  of  the  Empire.  To 
obtain  this  information  requires  much  patience  and 
assiduity,  and  many  years  of  attentive  study.  The 
student,  as  with  us  of  the  Western  hemisphere, 
commences  the  great  task  when  young,  and  at  man- 
hood applies,  th-rough  the  literary  chancellor  of  his 
district,  for  the  privilege  of  undergoing  an  examina- 
tion before  the  established  Board  of  Examiners  at 
Pekin.  When  he  receives  their  permit  to  repair  to  the 
capital,  he  sets  out  upon  the  journey  with  as  much 
solemnity  of  thought  and  feeling,  as  if  about  to  enter 
upon  the  profession  of  the  priesthood.     Upon  his  ar- 


CHINA   AND    THE    CHINESE.  63 

rival  at  Pekin  the  applicant  is  assigned  a  room  by 
himself,  in  quarters  prepared  by  the  government. 
Here  he  is  kept  for  three  weeks,  preparatory  for  the 
examination ;  and  during  that  time  is  forbidden  all 
intercourse  with  any  person  whatever.  No  person 
is  allowed  to  enter  his  apartment  except  the  coolie 
who  waits  upon  him.  He  partakes  of  his  meals  by 
himself.  The  reason  for  this  strict  surveillance  is  to 
preclude  all  temporary  knowledge.  He  is  thus  pre- 
vented from  availing  himself  of  the  learning  of  any 
friend  at  his  elbow.  If  he  passes  through  the  ordeal 
successfullv,  it  is  because  of  his  thorough  erudition 

*/   i  O 

acquired  before  reaching  the  capital.  When  the  ex- 
amination is  progressing  in  the  great  hall  of  exami- 
nation, the  students  are  not  allowed  to  mingle.  This 
is  an  effectual  interdict  against  one  friend  aiding 
another.  At  night  they  are  returned  to  their  respective 
rooms.  All  these  precautions  are  in  force  till  the  ex- 
amination is  finished ;  if  he  is  successful,  the  Board 
report  him  to  the  consideration  of  the  Emperor,  and 
the  vermillion  pencil  marks  the  character  that  con- 
fers upon  him  the  button  of  a  mandarin.  He  is 
then  eligible  to  official  position. 

These  examinations  occur  triennially.     The  appli- 
cant for  the  permit  is  frequently  refused  ;  and  when 


64  OBSERVATIONS    OJV 

gratified  in  this  particular,  is  often  pronounced  un- 
qualified to  become  a  Mandarin  by  the  board  at  Pe- 
kin,  and  disappointed  and  usually  heart-broken,  re- 
traces his  steps  to  his  home,  if  he  does  not  commit  sui- 
cide on  the  way.  To  be  eligible  even  for  the  permit,  it 
is  necessary  that  he  should  not  only  be  able  to  read 
and  talk  the  language  of  the  imperial  court,  but  he 
must  be  able  to  -write  it  with  fluency  and  perspicuity; 
this  accomplishment  in  other  countries  is  thought  of 
minor  importance,  and  to  read  and  write  merely  — 
especially  to  write  —  but  a  short  advance  on  the 
highway  of  knowledge.  In  Chinese  scholarship,  how- 
ever, it  is  otherwise.  This  court  language,  or  Man- 
darin as  it  is  usually  called,  is  the  only  language 
that  is  known  and  used  alike  all  over  the  Empire. 
The  laws  and  rescripts  of  government,  in  order  to  be 
uniform  and  certain  at  all  points  of  the  common- 
wealth, and  alike  understood,  are  expressed  by  the 
same  characters  and  of  the  same  meaning.  Those 
who  are  charged  with  the  execution  of  these  laws 
and  rescripts,  must  of  necessity  be  familiar  with  the 
language.  The  language  of  the  mass  of  the  people 
is  unlike  in  the  different  provinces,  and  hence  the  di- 
alect taught  to  the  child  illy  qualifies  him  for  the  po«i; 
of  a  mandarin.     To  learn  the  meaning  of  these  sym- 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  65 

bolical  characters,  and  then  to  possess  the  ability  to 
unite  them  is  not,  as  in  Western  nations,  the 
work  of  months,  but  of  years.  Neither  is  the  stu- 
dent favored  with  free  schools,  but  is  taught  at  his 
own  expense  by  some  private  tutor  or  in  some  pri- 
vate school.  When,  however,  he  has  thoroughly 
mastered  the  language  and  become  familiar  with  the 
laws  and  institutions  of  his  country,  the  maxims  of 
government,  the  precepts  and  instructions  of  Confu- 
cius and  Mencius,  the  religious  dogmas  of  Buddha, 
and  the  elementary  principles  of  right  and  wrong  — 
and  above  all  been  accepted  by  the  Board  of  Examina- 
tion —  then  he  has  achieved  a  prize  in  the  great 
lottery  of  life.  He  is  decorated  with  the  first  but- 
on,  and  enters  upon  official  life.  He  now  begins  to 
travel  that  narrow  path  which  is  sure,  if  he  takes 
care  not  to  make  a  false  step,  to  lead  him  to  wealth 
and  fame. 

It  is  from  such  a  class  of  men  that  the  high  min- 
isters of  state,  Governors,  Judges,  Magistrates  and 
Chancellors,  are  selected.  It  is  with  such  men  that 
the  representatives  of  foreign  powers  come  in  con- 
tact. Such  erudition,  united  with  the  intellectual 
ability  and  persevering  energy  to  acquire  it,  would 
be  formidable  in  any  country;  and  is  especially  so 


66  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

in  a  country  where  its  language  would  be  deemed  an 
enigma  if  not  a  myth,  by  the  people  of  other  lands, 
if  history  and  tradition  did  not  develope  the  stubborn 
fact  that  this  identical  language  was  the  first  spoken, 
if  not  the  first  written  language  on  the  earth. 
Chronicles  wholly  detached  from  the  fabulous  epoch 
of  twenty  four  thousand  years,  produce  the  convic- 
tion that  these  characters  and  hieroglyhics  were 
used  to  express  the  same  symbols  with  the  same  idea 
and  meaning,  away  back  in  the  first  dawn  of  time. 

There  is  as  much  jostling,  however,  among  the 
Mandarins  to  get  this  and  that  seal  of  office,  as  there 
is  among  applicants  for  official  position  in  Europe 
or  America.  They  have  their  intrigues,  and  the 
ins  and  outs  wrestle  as  much  with  each  other.  Three 
years  is  the  usual  duration  of  an  office,  though  not 
necessarily  terminating  then,  as  the  seal  is  held  at 
the  will  of  the  Emperor.  Usually,  there  is  apparent 
concord  among  these  in  the  seats  of  authority.  If 
the  Board  of  Censors  lodges  a  complaint  in  the  impe- 
rial ear.  it  has  come  up  to  the  capital  through  some 
other  source  than  the  high  officials  of  the  province. 
The  principal  reason  for  this,  as  rumor  hath  it,  is 
the  sensitiveness  so  prevalent  among  all  upon  the 
subject  of  official  delinquency  or  dereliction  of  duty. 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  67 

They  do  not  seek  occasion  to  belie,  as  they  express 
it,  the  well  beloved  and  right  trusty  servants  of  the 
Son  of  Heaven.  Human  nature  is  subject  to  short 
comings,  they  say,  and  the  mandarin's  walk  may 
not  at  all  times  be  as  straight  as  a  line  can  be  drawn 
between  two  points.  So  far  from  evincing  a  dispo- 
sition to  even  cast  a  slur  upon  each  other's  conduct, 
they  are  too  apt  to  go  a  great  way  to  cover  up  any 
alleged  malversation.  The  cause  of  this  aversion  to 
fault  finding  is  because,  as  the  Chinese  aver,  the 
mandarins  believe  in  the  maxim  that  "  those  who 
live  in  glass  houses  should  not  throw  stones." 

Most  of  the  complaints,  as  talked  over  by  the  peo- 
ple among  themselves,  are  against  those  mandarins 
who  hold  the  courts.  These  magistrates  are  charged 
with  corruption  —  daily  corruption.  Indeed,  it  has 
become  so  common  in  many  localities,  that  a  China- 
man who  has  been  wronged,  in  ninety-nine  cases  out 
of  an  hundred,  prefers  to  let  the  wrong  go  unpun- 
ished than  to  make  the  matter  known  at  the  magis- 
trate's office.  If  a  Chinaman  is  indebted  to  another 
Chinaman,  he  is  very  apt  to  go  scot  free,  such  is  the 
disinclination  to  prosecute.  For,  whenever  a  China- 
man lodges  a  complaint,  civil  or  criminal,  the  first 
thing  he  is  required  to  do,  is  to  pay  a  liberal  dou- 


68  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

eeur  to  some  one  in  attendance,  under  the  false  pre- 
text that  the  same  is  to  pay  the  necessary  expenses 
in  court,  for  the  police  officers,  and  for  writing  out 
the  proceedings. 

The  court  is  held  by  one  person,  styled  "  Che- 
heen."    There  is  no  jury  —  there  are  no  associates. 
There  is,  practically,  no  appeal.     The  law  allows  of 
an  appeal  in  certain  cases,  but  there  does  not  appear 
to  be  any  way  to  get  the  case  before  the  Appellate 
Court,  which  again  is  held  by  the  Criminal  Judge 
of   the  province  without  associates  or  jury.       The 
appellant  cannot  himself,  as  in  some  other  countries, 
take  the  case  to  the  court  above,  nor  can  he  compel 
a  true  return  of  the  whole  case  by  the  court  below, 
without  virtually  making  a  complaint  against  it,  or, 
in  other  words,  impugning  the  judicial  capacity  of 
the  Cheheen ;  for,  in  Chinese  law  it  is  assumed  that 
the  Cheheen  is  perfectly  familiar  with  the  maxim  of 
justice  that  is  applicable  to  the  case,  and  therefore, 
if  he  has  in  fact  made  a  wrong  decision,  it  has  ema- 
nated from  impure  motives.     If  then,  an  appeal  is 
made,  and  the  decision  is  overruled,  the  appellant 
incurs  the  displeasure  of  the  Cheheen,  and  will  soon 
feel  it  to  his  great  cost  and  detriment.     If  the  ap- 
peal is  dismissed,  he  is  mulcted  heavily  to  pay  the 


CHINA   AND    THE   CHINESE.  (J<) 

numerous  wily  hangers-on  about  the  purlieus  of  jus- 
tice. If  it  is  a  case  of  indebtedness,  the  creditor 
really  gets  nothing.  Besides,  to  prevent  false  accu- 
sations, the  party  who  fails  to  substantiate  the  com- 
plaint is  always  fined  or  otherwise  punished.  Many 
instances  can  be  cited  to  illustrate  the  truth  of  these 
observations  of  Chinese  jurisprudence.  One  or  two 
may  now  suffice. 


70  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 


CHAPTER  XII. 

THE   JUNK   CASE CIVIL  SIDE   OF    COURT. 

AN  owner  of  a  junk  borrowed  upon  a  note  in  the 
nature  of  a  mortgage  on  the  vessel,  two  thou- 
sand taels.  A  quarter  of  the  purchase  money  was 
to  be  repaid  in  one  month,  and  time  allowed  for  the 
payment  of  the  balance.  When  the  pay  day  came, 
the  purchaser  did  not  meet  the  payment.  The  in- 
terest, which  was  lawfully  agreed  upon  at  twelve 
per  cent,  per  annum,  there  being  no  usury  law,  re- 
mained unpaid  also.  After  much  unsuccessful  effort 
to  tease  payment,  and  the  whole  amount  having  be- 
come due,  the  money  lender  very  reluctantly  unbo- 
somed himself  to  the  district  magistrate.  The  Sec- 
retary politely  requested  a  few  taels  as  an  entrance 
fee  to  the  Cheheen.  The  Messenger  was  too  unwell 
to  announce  this  suitor  for  justice  until  a  package  of 
one  hundred  Mexican  dollars  was  handed  to  him. 


CHINA  AJYD  THE  CHINESE.  71 

The  police  officer  was  too  much  worn  out  with  the 
heat  and  travel  of  the  previous  day,  to  undertake  to 
find  the  debtor,  and  did  not  feel  as  if  it  was  possible 
to  enter  upon  this  new  undertaking,  until  the  suitor 
had  also  quietly  laid  upon  his  stool  "  another  hun- 
dred." These  requirements  complied  with,  the  suit- 
or was  informed  that  he  could  then  ' '  go  and  return  on 
some  other  day."  He  left  and  did  return  "  on  some 
other  day  "  three  weeks  afterwards,  when  he  found 
his  debtor  in  prison. 

The  suitor  was  now  informed  that  the  debtor  not 
only  denied  the  justice  of  the  claim,  but  insisted 
that  the  suitor  was  guilty  of  forgery  —  that  the 
seal  to  the  writing  or  note  was  not  genuine.  By 
law  it  is  necessary  that  all  writings  shall  not  only 
have  the  mark  or  sign  manual  but  also  the  seal ; 
and  hence  all  Chinese  of  the  slightest  respectability 
have  their  private  seals  of  different  devices. 

This  is  necessary  because  of  the  scarcity  of  sur- 
names, and  the  necessity  of  so  many  persons  using 
the  same.  Indeed,  those  of  the  same  family  are  all 
known  by  one  name,  unless  it  is  arbitrarily  changed. 

Well,  in  this  case  the  suitor  was  dumbfounded. 
He,  however,  after  the  fashion  of  the  Chinese,  reas- 
sured himself  by  adding  largely  to  the  previous  dou- 


\ 


72  OBSERVATIONS    OJV 

ceurs,  and  petitioned  the  Cheheen  to  meet  his  debt- 
or face  to  face  with  witnesses. 

After  the  lapse  of  one  month,  he  had  this  privi- 
lege, and  his  debtor  confronted  him  with  what  he 
claimed  as  his  genuine  seal.     It  was  different  from 
the  one  upon  the  note,  and  the  Cheheen  sternly  ad- 
monished the  suitor  of  his  delicate  situation  and  the 
necessity  of  "  clearing  up  the  matter."     To  add  to 
his  confusion,  the  man  in  custody  was  not  the  person 
with  whom  the  trade  was  in  fact  made,  though  of 
the  same  name  and  residence,  and  yet,  as  it  appear- 
ed from  the  evidence  of  the  witnesses,  he  was  the 
true  owner  of  the  junk  in  question.     One  of  them 
declared  that  he  sold  to  the  prisoner  the  identical 
spars  that  were  used  for  the  masts.     The  suitor  did 
not  know  what  to  do.    If  the  matter  was  dropped  then, 
the  Cheheen,   according  to  custom,   would  bamboo 
him  at  least ;  that  is,  the  Court  would  sentence  him 
to  receive  some  forty  or  fifty  blows  of  the  bamboo 
stick  upon  the  naked  back,  and  the  sentence  would 
be  immediately  carried  into  execution,  and  he  would 
lose  his  debt.     So  he  asked  for  time  —just  what  the 
Court  expected  —  and  a  future  day  was  named  for 
another  sitting  in  the  case,  and  the  debtor  remanded 
to  prison.     As  the  suitor  was   about  leaving  this 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  73 

temple  of  justice,  some  by-stander  intimated  to  him 
that  lie  had  better  compromise  the  matter  in  some 
way  with  the  stubborn  debtor,  if  he  could  do  so  con- 
veniently. This  intimation  was  sufficient.  He  re- 
ceived from  his  debtor  five  hundred  and  sixty-four 
taels,  corresponding  exactly  with  the  total  amount 
of  douceurs,  and  consented  in  writing  that  the  debtor 
might  be  let  out  on  bail  given  for  his  reappearance 
whenever  summoned  by  the  Cheheen. 

Once  upon  a  time  thereafter,  these  two  Chinese 
met  in  an  opium  shop,  each  to  drown  his  sorrow  ;  — 
the  suitor,  because  he  never  could  come  across  the 
person  who  really  borrowed  the  money  ;  and  the 
debtor,  because  he  had  been  compelled  to  pay  two 
thousand  taels  for  which  he  had  never  received  an 
equivalent.  The  opium  shop  disclosed  the  fact  that 
the  debtor  was  twice  banibooed  by  the  Cheheen,  be- 
cause he  so  stubbornly  denied  the  debt ;  and  through 
the  influence  of  friends  had  escaped  the  further  pun- 
ishment if  he  had  admitted  the  debt  in  open  court, 
by  paying  over  the  two  thousand  taels  and  full  in- 
terest, and  which,  until  this  accidental  meeting,  he 
supposed  had  gone  into  the  pocket  of  the  suitor. 

This  was  a  proceeding  on  the  civil  calendar  of  the 
court.  A 


74  OBSERVATIONS   OJV 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

THE   WIDOW   WOMAN.  CRIMINAL   SIDE   OF   COURT. 

THE  following  case  may  be  cited  as  having  oc- 
curred on  the  criminal  calendar  of  this  astute, 
if  not  impartial  tribunal. 

One  day  a  middle-aged,  widowed  woman  appeared 
at  the  bureau  of  the  Secretary,  and  complained  that 
a  Chinaman  had  stolen  her  only  child, —  a  girl  of 
fourteen  years  of  age,  —  taken  her  to  a  neighboring 
province,  and  sold  her.     It  was  a  case  of  kidnapping. 

She  was  told  that  it  was  necessary,  under  the  law, 
for  some  male  to  appear  in  court  with  her,  as  her 
next  friend,  as  no  female  could  be  suitor  in  her  own 
name.  She  retired.  In  a  few  days  she  re-appeared 
in  company  with  her  brother.  The  accused  was  a 
well  known  Chinese  merchant,  and  not  poor.  The 
widow  was  very  politely  reminded  of  this  by  the 
kind  and  affable  Secretary,  and  some  surprise  evinced 


CHJJVA  JUYJD  THE  CHINESE.  75 

that  he  should  he  guilty  of  so  horrid  a  crime.  The 
widow  was  not  dull  to  comprehend,  and  at  once  be- 
gan to  count  out  the  dollars,  thinking  that  the  Sec- 
retary would  say  f  enough,"  as  each  changed  own- 
ership. In  this  she  was  mistaken,  as  the  last  one 
she  had  passed  out  of  her  hands,  and  the  Secretary 
had  not  said  "  enough."  On  the  contrary,  he  asked 
for  more,  assigning  as  a  reason,  that  the  punishment 
for  the  alleged  crime  was  severe  —  no  less  than  the 
loss  of  the  head —  that  the  accused  had  plenty  of 
sycce,  (pure  silver,)  and  she  had  laid  her  damages 
as  high  as  two  tens  of  thousands  of  taels.  She  ex- 
cused herself  and  retired  again.  One  moon,  how- 
ever, had  not  more  than  passed,  and  she  waited  upon 
the  Secretary  the  third  time  in  quest  of  justice. 
Now.  the  Secretary  said  "  enough,"  her  petition 
to  the  Cheheen  was  duly  prepared  and  signed,  and 
she  was  told  when  to  come  again  with  her  brother. 
At  the  expiration  of  a  fortnight  she  and  her  brother 
confronted  the  kidnapper  in  court. 

The  accused  had  been  arrested  but  not  thrown  in- 
to prison,  being  connected  with  a  foreign  house,  sat- 
isfactory bail  had  been  given  for  his  forthcoming  at 
the  required  time.  He  denied  the  charge,  and 
claimed  that  it  was  an  attempt  on  the  part  of  the 
widow  to  extort  money. 


76  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

In  Chinese  courts,  each  party,  as  well  as  the  wit- 
nesses, are  always  examined  by  the  judge,  and  the 
person  under  examination  kneels  and  bows  the  head 
to  the  floor,  and  remains  in  this  posture,  till  the  ex- 
amination is  concluded.  So  it  was  done  in  this  case. 
The  accused  trembled  like  an  aspen  leaf, —  so  much 
so  —  that  he  hardly  knew  what  answer  to  make 
when  asked  if  he  had  eyer  seen  the  young  girl.  Un- 
wittingly he  admitted  that  he  had  once  seen  her  ; 
and  though  he  attempted  to  parry  off*  the  many  ques- 
tions that  this  admission  suggested  to  the  mind  of 
the  inquisitor,  yet  he  came  lamely  off. 

The  Cheheen  robed  in  full  dress,  the  emblems  of 
punishment  —  such  as  bamboo  sticks  and  chains  and 
cords  and  axes  —  and  on  every  side,  plenty  of  ex- 
ecutioners and  policemen  at  hand  to  do  the  bidding 
of  their  master,  for  the  nonce  disconcerted  him,  and 
he  finally,  while  stoutly  denying  the  charge,  stated 
that  at  the  urgent  request  of  her  mother,  he  had  tak- 
en some  charge  of  the  girl,  and  for  her  good,  sent 
her  to  a  friend  a  few  li  into  the  interior.  To  test 
the  truth  of  this  part  of  the  story,  as  the  Cheheen 
remarked,  he  was  asked  how  much  time  he  wanted 
to  return  the  girl  to  her  mother.  He  replied  that 
it  was  one  hundred  and  twenty  li  (equal  to  the  dis- 


CHIJYA   AND    THE    CHINESE.  77 

tance  of  forty  English  miles.)     The  Court  allowed 
eight  days  for  the  production  of  the  missing  gjrl, 
and  he  again  gave  satisfactory  bail   for  his  appear- 
ance in  court  at  the  designated  time.     The  young 
girl  returned  to  her  mother  one  day,  surprised  that 
she  should  have  sent  for  her  so  soon,  as  she  was  quite 
contented,  but  was  hushed  by  the  widow  telling  her 
how  nicely  she  had  planned  to  get  into  her  clutches 
the  accused  Chinaman,  who  it  turned  out  had  mere- 
ly been  acting  as  a  guardian  of  the   girl,  and  that 
too  at  the  earnest  solicitation  of  her  mother.       But 
because  he  would  not  occasionally  make  her  a  cum- 
shaw,  that  is  a  gift,  of  a-  few  dollars,  she  adopted 
this  course  to  squeeze  him  roundly.     Flattering  as 
she  now  thought  the  case  to  be,  in  the  sequel  she 
learned  that  the  court  did  not  think  she  was  en- 
titled to  recover  any  damages,  as   the  accused  had 
done  nothing  wrong ;  but  that  she  had  shown  herself 
a  good  and  loyal  subject  in  bringing  the  case  to  the 
attention  of  the  proper  authorities  ;  and   especially 
so,  as  she  had  done  this  at  her  own  expense.     It  was 
not  long  after  that  she  met  the  accused  in  the  street, 
and  importuning  him  for  some  pecuniary  help  re- 
ceived for  a  reply,  that  the  big  fish  had  nearly  eaten 
him  up,  as  he  was  forced  to  pay  to  the  secretary  one 


OBSERVATIONS  0J\" 


thousand  taels  ;  and,  as  he  had  till  then  supposed, 
as  smart  money  to  go  into  her  ill  gotten  purse.  She 
hastened  once  more  to  the  Secretary,  and  got  for  an 
answer,  that  the  affair  was  finished,  and  it  was  now 
her  duty,  as  a  good  and  loyal  subject,  to  go  home  and 
quietly  attend  to  her  own  business. 


CHINA   AND    THE    CHINESE.  79 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

RAILROADS.  —  COURIERS.  —  FORMALITIES.  —  THE  YAMUNS. 

rpHERE  are  no  railroads  nor  telegraphic  wires  in 
X  China.  The  speed  of  ordinary  traveling  is 
slow,  and  there  is  no  general  system  of  Chinese  mail 
conveyance.  Between  large  neighboring  cities  in 
some  localities  there  is  a  mail  communication  kept 
up  by  individual  enterprise,  and  letters  and  news 
carried  for  a  trifling  compensation.  An  hundred 
miles  is  regarded  as  a  long  journey.  When  a  man- 
darin is  passing  along,  he  is  preceded  by  a  herald 
who  warns  the  inhabitants  of  the  approach  of  the 
magnate,  by  the  beating  of  gongs  and  the  explosion 
of  fire  crackers.  If  the  official  is  in  a  sedan,  his 
guards  walk  ahead,  the  foremost  carrying  a  scarlet 
umbrella  —  if  he  is  in  a  boat,  the  same  is  known  as 
a  mandarin  boat  from  its  size  and  make,  and  an  um- 
brella is  stuck  on  the  top  of  it.     State  communica- 


80  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

tions  are  carried  by  special  couriers,  whose  speed  of 
travel  is  greater  or  less  according  to  the  importance 
of  the  communication  and  the  rank  of  the  officials 
between  whom  it  passes.  If  to  or  from  the  Emper- 
or, it  is  the  flying  courier  who  goes,  as  the  China- 
man would  say,  "  with  lightning  speed."  He  rides 
on  horseback  with  relays  at  every  thirty  li,  or  ten 
English  miles.  Usually,  the  courier  is  relieved  at 
the  expiration  of  every  hundred  li,  but  the  packet, 
carefully  folded  in  a  roll  covered  with  scarlet  silk 
and  securely  tied  at  each  end  and  in  the  middle  with 
silk  ribbons,  is  constantly  on  the  way  till  it  has 
reached  its  destination.  If  from  the  Emperor  it  is 
written  with  the  "  vermilion  pencil,"  and  the  officer 
to  whom  it  is  addressed  meets  it  "  beyond  the  outer 
gate  "  of  the  city,  places  it  upon  a  table,  chin  chins 
it,  and  then  causes  it  to  be  removed  to  his  Yamun  or 
palace,  where  it  as  very  gravely  unrolled  and  its  con- 
tents ascertained  after  it  has  u  lain  in  state  "  a  suffi- 
cient length  of  time  for  other  local  officers,  who  wear 
the  button  of  a  mandarin,  to  come  and  chin-chin. 

Every  thing  of  a  public  character  is  attended  with 
great  formality.  Indeed  there  is  so  much  impor- 
tance attached  to  formality,  that  it  is  the  sole  busi- 
ness of  the  Board  of  Rites  and  Ceremonies  at  Pekin, 


CHINA  AJYD  THE  CHINESE.  81 

to  make  and  prescribe  rules  and  regulations  for  the 
carrying  out  of  this  maxim  of  government.  If  any 
public  document  or  communication  to,  or  passing  be- 
tween officers  of  the  state,  lacks  the  prescribed  form- 
ality, the  same  is  not  received.  Let  the  subject  be 
of  ever  so  trifling  importance,  the  communication 
must  have  the  impress  of  the  official  seal ;  and  not 
only  that,  but  the  impress  must  be  made  exactly  at 
the  prescribed  place  and  on  the  proper  colored  paper, 
either  red  or  yellow,  according  to  the  subject  or  busi- 
ness ;  and  then  it  must  be  slid  into  a  red  envelope 
left  wholly  open  at  one  end  and  closely  fitted  ;  and 
then  this  must  be  carefully  put  into  another  and 
larger  envelope  securely  pasted  together  and  having 
the  impress  of  the  seal  on  the  outer  envelope  in 
three  different  places,  and  so  made  as  to  cover  each 
fold.  The  outer  envelope  must  also  be  of  the  pre- 
scribed size,  which  is  graduated,  from  twelve  inches 
in  length  and  six  inches  in  breadth,  to  twenty-four  by 
twelve,  according  to  the  rank  of  the  officer. 

So  with  the  Yamuns  or  palaces,  sedans  and  boats. 
Every  Yamun  in  the  empire,  of  the  same  official 
grade,  is  built  in  a  similar  fashion  and  of  a  similar 
size.  There  are  three  courts,  two  outer  and  one  in- 
ner.    If  an  officer,  native  or  foreign,  is  approaching, 

4* 


82  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

a  salute  of  three  guns  is  always  fired  off  in  the  out- 
er court,  accompanied  with  music.  The  guards  of 
the  Yamun,  form  in  parallel  lines  facing  each  other, 
in  the  first  inner  court  which  the  visitor  enters,  and 
between  which  lines  he  passes  into  the  second  inner 
court,  where  he  alights  from  his  sedan,  and  is  greeted 
with  a  chin  chin  from  the  occupant  of  the  Yamun, 
standing  under  a  crimson  canopy,  and  to  whom  the 
visitor  chin  chins  in  return  for  the  compliment. 
The  visitor  is  then  escorted  through  narrow  pas- 
sages and  galleries  to  a  public  reception  room  where, 
among  other  chairs,  there  is  one  more  elevated  than 
the  others,  with  two  seats  beneath  a  red  colored  can- 
opy, and  to  one  of  which  he  is  introduced,  the  Chi- 
nese officer  taking  the  other  and  on  the  right  of  the 
visitor,  the  left  seat  being,  according  to  Chinese  eti- 
quette, the  post  of  preference,  instead  of  the  right  as 
in  Western  countries.  The  visitor  having  finished 
the  business  which  called  him  there,  and  intimated 
his  intention  to  retire,  he  is  very  politely,  (no  mat- 
ter how  exciting  or  unpleasant  may  have  been  the 
business  that  occasioned  the  interview,)  invited  to 
partake  of  refreshment  consisting  of  wines,  cakes  and 
tea.  It  is  regarded  as  a  violation  of  etiquette  to  de- 
cline the  invitation,  and  therefore  it  is  always  ac- 


CHIJVA  AJSTD  THE  CHINESE.  83 

cepted  even  if  only  for  a  moment.  The  visitor  is 
then  conducted  to  the  refreshment  room,  surrounded 
by  the  guards  of  the  Yamun  as  he  passes  along ; 
and  having  finished  there  as  soon  as  he  pleases,  (et- 
iquette conferring  this  privilege)  he  returns  to  his 
sedan  and  leaves  the  Yamun  and  its  various  courts 
with  the  same  ceremony  that  he  entered  it.  If  he 
had  come  on  foot,  instead  of  being  carried  in  a  sedan 
by  four  bearers,  it  would  have  been  a  violation  of 
the  code  of  ceremonies  for  the  governor,  or  whatever 
his  official  appellation,  to  have  received  him.  It 
would  be  equally  regarded  as  a  violation  of  the  reg- 
ulations for  the  governor  to  make  an  official  visit,  or 
even  to  move  along  the  public  street,  on  foot,  and 
what  is  singular  he  would  be  the  laughing-stock  of 
the  populace. 


84  OBSERVATIONS    OJV 


CHAPTER  XV. 

CHINESE   PECULIARITIES.  — POLYGAMY. 

THE  Chinese  are  a  peculiar  race.  Their  habits  and 
customs  are  sui  genesis.  They  are  wholly  like 
themselves,  and  wholly  unlike  everybody  and  every- 
thing else.  Their  disposition,  and  their  mode  of 
thought  and  action,  are  different  from  the  rest  of  man  - 
kind.  In  the  usual  daily  routine  of  life  they  are  sto- 
ical, yet  capable  of  gushing,  overwhelming  passion. 
They  reverse  the  maxim  of  not  deferring  till  to-morrow 
what  can  be  done  to-day,  and  act  as  if  whatever  can  be 
done  to-day  can  be  done  just  as  well  to-morrow. 
They  are  never  in  a  hurry,  for  the  sun,  they  say, 
will  come  again  in  the  east.  They  are  superstitious, 
and  are  slowly,  if  ever  persuaded,  to  deviate  from 
the  beaten  walk  of  their  ancestors.  Believers  in 
Buddhism,  they  have  as  a  nation  no  faith  in  the  di- 
vinity or   doctrines  of  Jesus  of  Bethlehem.     They 


CHINA  AJYD  THE  CHINESE.  85 

are  vain  but  frugal.  They  are  industrious  from  ne- 
cessity. They  are  very  fond  of  trade,  and  always 
ready  to  barter  whatever  they  may  have.  They 
have  an  abundance  of  low  cunning,  and  many  of 
their  number  are  endowed  with  a  far-seeing  sagacity. 
They  will  cheat  a  foreigner  if  they  can,  and  consider 
it  a  virtue  to  do  so  ;  and  it  is  not  far  from  the  truth 
to  say  that  many  of  them  will  steal  if  they  cannot 
cheat.  They  believe  in  the  propriety  of  polygamy, 
and  practise  it.  The  law  tolerates  the  man  in  hav- 
ing as  many  women  belonging  to  his  person  under 
his  own  roof,  as  he  may  be  pleased  to  have  ;  but  if 
either,  or  the  issue,  are  not  taken  care  of,  he  forfeits 
his  head  to  the  government.  Hence,  he  is  apt  to  be 
careful  of  his  conduct  on  this  point.  It  is  usual  for 
a  Chinaman  who  is  well  off,  to  have  two  wives,  as 
they  are  called  ;  and  it  is  not  a  very  extraordinary 
occurrence  for  a  wealthy  man  to  have  six  "  wife." 
The  word  as  used  in  the  English  language,  is  not, 
however,  significant  of  the  true  meaning  of  this 
transaction.  In  China,  the  "  wife  "  is  the  woman 
who  is  first  united  to  the  man  by  the  usual  marriage 
ceremonies^  and  supposed  to  be  of  equal  condition. 
Whilst  she  lives,  she  is  always  entitled  by  law  to 
share  the  bed  and  board  of  her  husband,  and  is  the 


86  OB  SEE  VA  TIOJVS  O  JV 

mistress  of  all  the  other  women  whom  he  may  legally 
take  to  himself.  She  is  at  the  head  of  the  household 
on  the  female  side.  The  other  women  are  subor- 
dinate and  of  inferior  condition,  not  united  to  the 
male  head  of  the  household  by  the  usual  rites  of 
matrimony,  and  therefore  are  what  is  known  in  the 
English  sense  as  concubines.  They,  as  well  as  their 
children,  are  legally  required  to  work  and  to  do 
their  share  towards  the  common  maintenance  of  the 
whole  family,  according  to  their  condition  and  abili- 
ty. The  Chinese  say  that  the  additional  woman  is 
not  taken  without  the  consent  of  the  wife,  and  that 
the  harmony  of  the  family  is  never  disturbed  by 
these  domestic  arrangements. 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  87 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

HOW   THE   CHINESE   GET  THEIR  WIVES  —  THE   MARRIAGE   CEREMONY. 

THE   MARRIAGE   FEAST. 

THE  Chinese  marriage  ceremony  is  unique.  To 
begin,  the  courting  is  done  through  a  third 
person.  A  Chinaman  who  wants  a  wife  employs 
some  person  —  usually  a  female  —  to  look  out  for  a 
suitable  match.  This  go-between  usually  belongs  to 
a  class  who  follow  this  business.  She  is  therefore 
generally  well  informed  of  the  marriageable  women 
in  her  neighborhood  at  least,  and  their  qualities,  and 
the  cost  of  getting  them.  The  man  must  always 
pay  a  greater  or  less  price  to  the  parents,  which  is 
claimed  as  a  recompense  for  the  loss  of  her  services, 
and  the  marriage  outlay.  The  price  varies  accord- 
ing to  the  attraction  of  the  woman,  and  the  quality  of 
her  condition.  The  price  ranges  from  five  to  ten 
hundred  taels.     It  is  said,  that  ten  thousand  taels  of 


88  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

sycee  is  often  left  with  the  parents.  The  wooer 
commits  himself  and  his  future  domestic  peace  and 
happiness  entirely  to  the  good  sense,  tact,  and  judg- 
ment of  the  go-between.  It  is  pretended,  that  the 
wooer  never  indicates  his  choice,  or  knows,  or  even 
has  seen  to  recognize,  his  partner  in  life.  The  go- 
between  at  once  commences  her  work,  and  having 
made  her  selection,  discloses  the  business  to  the  pa- 
rent with  as  much  non  chalance  as  she  would  open  a 
negotiation  for  any  article  of  produce  or  merchan- 
dise. She  informs  him  of  the  character  and  pecuni- 
ary condition  of  the  wooer,  and  commonly,  after 
much  chaffering,  settles  the  price  for  the  young  lady. 
After  this  is  paid,  the  time  for  the  marriage  is  fixed. 
This  ceremony  takes  place  at  the  residence  of  the 
groom.  On  the  morning  of  the  day  designated  for 
this  ceremony  to  begin,  the  wooer  sends  the  "  wed- 
ding chair  "  and  an  escort  to  the  house  of  the  pa- 
rents, for  his  betrothed.  In  this  she  is  brought  to 
the  groom's  residence.  The  "  wedding  chair  "  is  a 
large  sized  sedan  covered  with  scarlet  silk,  and  the 
bride  is  hidden  from  the  view  of  the  spectators  as 
she  passes  along  the  highway.  Ahead  of  her  is  the 
escort,  consisting  of  some  twenty  to  thirty  persons, 
with  music  and  fire-crackers,  to  warn  the  people  to 


CHINA   J1JVD    THE    CHINESE.  89 

stand  apart  so  that  the  bridal  cortege  may  pass  by, 
and  to  drive  off  any  evil  spirit  that  may  be  lurking 
near.  Behind  her  follow  the  marriage  gifts  of  her 
parents,  and  among  which  are  always  her  bed  and 
bedding.  Arrived  at  her  new  home  she  is  conduct- 
ed to  the  bridal  chamber,  where  she  is  left  by  her- 
self and  to  her  own  thoughts.  Neither  party  has 
recognized  the  other.  They  are  strangers.  There 
is  an  idol  in  a  corner  of  the  chamber,  and  she  chin- 
chins  it  for  virtue,  plenty  and  felicity.  She  occu- 
pies this  apartment  for  a  season,  varying  from  one  to 
three  days.  She  is  not  clothed  in  white,  for  that  col- 
or is  the  symbol  of  mourning.  She  dresses  as  may 
be  her  taste,  giving  heed  to  the  caprice  of  the  Priest. 
In  the  meantime,  the  groom  is  at  his  devotion  in 
another  room.  On  the  evening  of  the  next  day,  at- 
tended by  the  priest  and  near  relatives,  the  parties 
are  for  the  fiist  time  brought  into  each  other's  pres- 
ence ;  and  kneeling  together  in  front  of  an  altar, 
with  the  left  hand  of  the  bride  in  the  right  hand  of 
the  groom,  they  chin  chin  the  god  of  Matrimony. 
After  a  few  minutes  they  return  to  their  separate 
apartments,  and  do  not  again  see  each  other  till  they 
meet  at  the  table  of  the  "  marriage  feast."  This 
occurs  on  the  following  evening,  or  the  third  evening 


90  OBSERVATIONS    OJY 

succeeding  the  arrival  of  the  bride.  The  table  is 
loaded  with  meats,  cake  and  fruit,  and  decorated  with 
a  profusion  of  flowers  in  bunches  and  festoons.  The 
invited  guests  are  assembled  around  the  table.  The 
groom  and  bride  having  again  knelt  together  at  the 
altar,  and  jointly  begged  the  consent  of  the  god  of 
matrimony  to  their  union  as  man  and  wife,  and  the 
priest  having  announced  a  favorable  response,  they 
now  for  the  first  time  appear  in  public  as  such,  by  en- 
tering the  feast  room  together.  They  advance  to  the 
head  of  the  table.  The  groom  puts  a  gold  ring  into 
a  small  cup  containing  wine,  and  having  sipped  the 
wine  passes  the  cup  to  the  bride,  who  imitates  his  ex- 
ample. The  priest  then  receives  the  cup,  and  whilst 
holding  it,  the  groom  withdraws  the  ring  from  the 
wine  and  places  it  on  the  third  finger  of  the  left 
hand  of  his  bride.  They  are  now  husband  and  wife  ; 
and  according  to  the  laws  of  the  Empire  an  indissol- 
uble knot  has  been  tied,  which  nothing  but  death  can 
unloose.  The  laws  do  not  tolerate  divorce  for  any 
cause  whatever.  The  marriage  feast  now  proceeds, 
and  the  costly  viands  detain  the  company  to  a  late 
hour. 


CHINA   AJVJD    THE   CHINESE.  91 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

HOLIDAYS. —  HOW  TIME  IS  RECKONED. 

THE  Chinese  have  their  festivals,  amusements, 
and  games.  The  four  days  at  the  beginning  of 
each  new  year  for  the  lower  classes,  and  thirty  for 
the  gentry ;  the  opening  of  each  of  the  four  seasons 
—  winter,  spring,  summer  and  autumn ;  the  annual 
cleaning  of  the  graves  of  their  ancestors  in  the 
month  of  March ;  the  annual  days  set  apart  to  chin 
chin  the  Sun,  Moon,  Wind,  Rain,  Earth,  and  Water; 
these  are  holidays,  and  all  can  rest  from  their  labors. 
They  do  not  use  the  seven  days,  or  the  four  weeks, 
or  the  names  of  the  twelve  months,  or  reckon  from 
them  as  in  Western  nations.  They  divide  time  into 
years,  moons  and  days.  For  the  year  they  reckon 
from  the  first  year  of  the  reign  of  the  Emperor  for 
the  time  being ;  for  the  moon,  from  the  first  to  the 
twelfth  moon  of  the  year ;  for  the  day,  from  the 


92  OBSERVATIONS    OJV 

first  to  the  thirtieth  of  the  moon.  As  for  the  parts 
of  a  day,  hour,  minute  or  second,  they  are  used  by 
the  uneducated  as  of  the  morning  or  evening  in  a 
general  sense.  Twelve  hours  constitute  a  day  reck- 
oned from  midnight.  Each  hour  is  subdivided  into 
ninety-six  kih,  or  eighths  —  each  eighth  being  equal 
to  fifteen  minutes  Western  time.  At  the  expira- 
tion of  every  sixty  moons  they  intercalate  an  ad- 
ditional moon,  to  complete  the  cycle  of  time.  In 
this  way,  they  nearly  agree  with  Europe  and  America 
in  the  computation  of  intervals  of  duration  from 
age  to  age.  This  intercalation,  is  the  result  of  as- 
tronomical observation,  like  the  adding  of  an  extra 
day  every  fourth  year  to  the  month  of  February ; 
or  like  the  adding  or  subtracting  of  a  day  by  the  mar- 
iner in  the  ship's  log,  according  as  the  ship  may  be 
going  west  or  east,  as  he  crosses  the  180th  degree 
of  longitude  in  the  Pacific  ocean. 


CHINA   AND    THE   CHINESE.  93 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

AMUSEMENTS.  —  TEA  H0USE3.  —  OPIUM.  —  DINNER    PARTIES. 

THOUGH  the  general  mass  of  the  people  do  not 
have  as  many  days  of  rest  as  in  some  other  coun- 
tries, yet  their  places  of  amusement  are  open  daily.  % 
In  all  large  cities  there  are  one  or  more  public 
places  of  amusement,  consisting  of  theatrical  repre- 
sentations and  jugglery.  The  temples  usually  fur- 
nish a  suitable  room  or  court,  and  the  net  profits 
probably  go  into  the  purse  of  the  priesthood.  The 
charge  of  admittance  is  the  mere  trifle  of  one  cash, 
equal  in  value  to  the  tenth  part  of  an  American 
cent.  Thousands  of  idlers,  therefore,  habitually  fre- 
quent these  resorts  of  pleasure.  The  gentry  are  ac- 
customed to  hire  the  "whole  house;"  and  then 
only  those  who  have  been  invited,  can  gain  admit- 
tance. A  foreigner  soon  tires.  The  language  is 
unintelligible,  the  music  of  the  shrill  fifes  and  clar- 


94  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

inets  and  of  the  rumbling  gongs,  is  too  piercing  and 
heavy  for  the  ear,  and  the  jostling  and  odor  of  the  im- 
mense crowd  is  too  hard  and  unpleasant,  to  induce  him 
very  often  to  repeat  the  visit.     But  the  natives  enjoy  # 
the  fun  with  rapture.    They  are  also  passionately  fond 
of  games  from  their  youth  to  old  age,  and  all  classes, 
both  ashore  and  afloat,  participate.     One  can  seldom 
pass  along  the  street,  without  seeing  the  children  at 
their  plays  of  dice  and  quoits  ;  or  along  the  bund  or 
quay,  without  noticing  on  the  deck  of  many  a  junk 
and  boat  some  of  the  people  sprawled  thereon,  at  the 
game   of  matching   dice.     It    is    the    same    in    the 
houses  of  public  refreshment,  called  "tea  houses," 
because  tea  is  the  beverage  usually  called  for  and 
supplied  in  those  places.     If  a  Chinaman  desires  to 
get  drunk  (and  he  is  frequently  so  inclined  if  he  has 
an  extra  cash  or  two,)  he  goes  to  another  class  of  res- 
taurants, and  having  ordered  and  been  served  with 
his  money's  worth  of  opium  and  the  pipe  in  which 
to  smoke  it,  he  reclines  upon  a  bunk  with  a  stand 
beside  it,  and  takes  a  whiff  of  the  charming  herb  at 
his  pleasure.     If  he  belongs  to  the  class  of  wealthy 
persons,  whose  number  is  legion,  instead  of  repair- 
ing to  a  public  house,  he  retires  to  his  own,  and  there 
has  his  games  and  his  opium.     If  fond  of  company, 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  95 

he  entertains  his  acquaintances  and  friends  at  dinners  t 
which  come  off  at  the  close  of  the  day,  and  extend 
far  into  the  night.  His  wife  and  concubines  do  not 
participate,  as  the  males  and  females,  especially 
among  the  upper  classes,  do  not  mess  together  at  the 
same  table.  His  wife,  however,  is  allowed  to  enter- 
tain at  dinner,  but  ladies  only  are  her  guests.  Her 
entertainment  is  equally  long  and  as  delicious,  but 
attended  with  more  parade. 

On  these  occasions,  the  ladies  vie  with  each  other 
not  only  in  respect  to  their  personal  appearance  and 
the  style  and  beauty  of  their  dresses,  as  is  custom- 
ary in  many  other  countries,  but  also  in  the  variety 
and  number  of  dresses  used  at  the  entertainment. 

It  is  the  fashion  at  these  dinners  to  have  many 
courses  of  meats,  and  pastry,  and  desserts.  With 
the  change  of  every  course,  the  company  retires, 
and  reappears  in  a  different  dress.  Each  guest  has 
brought  her  wardrobe,  and  her  servants  arrange,  in 
the  dressing  room,  in  advance  of  the  first  sitting  at 
the  table,  the  several  dresses  and  ornaments  that  her 
misstress  is  to  put  on,  from  one  course  to  the  other, 
during  the  entertainment.  As  the  guest  does  not 
know  the  number  of  courses  to  be  served,  she  orders v 
at  random  a  number  of  silk,  satin,  and  crape  dresses 


96  OBSERVATIONS  OJ\T 

to  be  ready,  taking  care  to  have  it  large  enough. 
Sometimes  she  makes  a  miss,  and  then  receives  the 
triumphant  smiles  of  those  who  guessed  nearer  the 
mark  ;  and  the  hostess  politely  expresses  her  gratifi- 
cation that  the  feast  has  surpassed  the  expectation 
of  her  kind  guest. 

The  ladies  do  not  attend  the  public  amusements, 
nor  are  those  of  the  upper  classes  allowed  to  walk 
in  the  public  streets.  They  remain  at  home,  and 
there  have  their  amusements  and  games.  When 
they  go  out,  they  are  carried  in  the  sedan,  and  are 
screened  from  the  observation  of  the  people  outside. 
It  is  in  this  way,  say  the  Chinese,  that  the  ladies 
are  protected  from  insult  and  injury,  and  relieved 
of  the  stare  of  the  vulgar  and  impertinent.  The 
true  reason  undoubtedly  is,  to  keep  the  mind  and 
heart  at  home.  For  there,  it  is  claimed,  the  rich 
man's  wife  enjoys  all  the  luxuries  of  the  land,  and 
whiles  away  the  time  amid  music,  flowers,  and  em- 
broidery. 


CHIJYJL    JUVD    THE    CHINESE.  97 


CHAPTER   XIX. 

THE  VARIOUS   TRADES.  —  ROADS.  —  HOUSES.  —  CATTLE.  —  MODE     OP 
DOING   BUSINESS. —  COOLIES. 

i 

THE  various  trades  of  Western  civilization  are 
also  to  be  found  in  China.  The  mechanism  is 
more  primitive,  and  it  is  not  carried  to  that  degree 
of  perfection,  or  applied  to  as  many  uses.  The  gen- 
ius of  invention  is  a  stranger  to  this  old  country, 
and  there  does  not  appear  to  be  any  demand  from 
the  people  for  improvement.  The  plow  and  drag 
are  the  same  as  used  centuries  ago.  They  care  not 
for  the  fanning  mill,  and  prefer  the  sieve  and  basket 
to  separate  the  chaiF  from  the  wheat.  They  can 
still  rake  the  straw  and  grass  by  hand,  and  use  the 
sickle  and  snath,  as  in  olden  time.  The  shoemaker 
prefers  the  straight  awl,  though  he  does  not  use  pegs 
to  fasten  the  sole  to  the  upper  leather.     The  barber 

likes  the  broad-bladed  and  straight-handled   razor, 

5 


98  OBSERVATIONS    OJY 

though  he  shaves  the  top  and  back  of  the  head  as 
well  as  the  face.  The  tailor  cannot  or  will  not  use 
the  yard  stick,  and  plies  the  shears  and  goose  upon 
the  principle  that  resemblances  are  realities.  He 
prides  himself  upon  being  a  good  copyist,  and  insists 
that  a  coat,  pantaloons,  or  vest,  bearing  the  resem- 
blance of  the  pattern  is  in  reality  of  the  same  finish 
and  durability.  An  important  step  will  have  been 
taken  in  the  advancement  of  human  progress  and  en- 
lightenment, when  the  populations  of  this  quarter  of 
the  globe  shall  have  been  made  conscious  that  old 
ideas  are  fast  being  supplanted  by  new  developments, 
and  that  the  world  of  humanity  is  moving  forward 
instead  of  backwards. 

The  bible  and  the  ship,  the  missionary  and  the 
merchant,  have  accomplished  much  in  this  direction. 
The  civilization  of  Christian  countries  follows  in  the 
wake  of  their  commerce,  and  Paganism  is  humbled 
in  its  presence. 

Sheep  are  raised  in  central  and  northern  China. 
The  wool  is  long  and  coarse,  and  the  mutton  is  ex- 
cellent. They  are  of  the  same  class  that  abounded 
in  New  England  forty  years  ago.  It  is  customary 
to  use  the  skin  with  the  wool  unpicked,  for  clothing 
in  cold  weather.     Wood  is  scarce  and  always  brings 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  ,  99 

a  high  price,  and  is  sold  by  the  weight  or  bundle, 
equal  in  price  to  about  twenty-five  Mexican  dollars 
per  English  cord.  The  people,  therefore,  in  lieu*  of 
having  a  fire  to  warm  themselves,  are  compelled  to 
have  recourse  to  clothing,  and  increased  in  quantity 
from  time  to  time,  as  the  weather  becomes  colder, 
and  decreased  as  the  weather  becomes  warmer. 
January  and  February  are  the  coldest  months,  July 
and  August  are  the  warmest  months.  The  ther- 
mometer rises 'in  many  parts  of  the  country  to  102° 
Fahrenheit,  and  goes  as  low  as  30°  above  zero.  This 
is  especially  so  in  all  that  portion  lying  below  the 
Yellow  river.  In  the  northern  part  of  China  the 
thermometer  falls  below  zero  in  winter. 

China  abounds  in  goats.  The  people  are  not  par- 
tial to  the  meat,  but  are  fond  of  the  milk.  They 
have  short  horned  and  small  size  bullocks  and  cows, 
and  also  the  water  buffalo.  They  have  horses,  but 
it  is  unusual  for  the  people  to  use  them.  Military 
officers  appear  on  horseback,  and,  in  the  north  of 
China,  a  two  wheeled  vehicle  without  springs,  a 
mere  cart,  is  drawn  by  horses  when  used  in  travel- 
ing. At  other  times  it  is  drawn  by  oxen,  and  one 
ox  usually  suffices.  It  is  a  common  occurrence  to 
see  only  one  ox  harnessed  to  a  plow.     In  each  case 


100  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

the  ox  is  driven  by  a  rein  attached  to  a  ring  fasten- 
ed to  the  nose.  But  over  most  all  of  China,  the 
sedan  is  the  traveling  vehicle,  and  is  carried  by  two 
or  four  coolies,  who  travel  at  the  rate  of  four  or  five 
miles  an  hour.  The  roads  are  narrow.  They  are 
mere  footpaths  of  only  sufficient  width  for  two  se- 
dans to  pass  together.  These  roads  are  from  four 
to  six  feet  wide.  The  streets  in  the  cities  are  of  a 
similar  width,  and  are  usually  paved  with  heavy, 
flat,  slabs  of  granite.  Underneath  there  is  a  small 
drain  that  empties  into  one  or  more  canals  or  natu- 
ral streams  of  water,  which  extend  through  the  city 
and  outside  walls.  The  population  is  dense  in  the 
inhabited  localities.  The  people  dislike  isolation, 
and  every  house,  shop,  store,  and  tenement,  seems 
to  overflow  with  living  humanity.  The  lower  class- 
es wear  but  little  clothing.  Cooking  of  some  kind 
is  continuous  from  morning  till  night,  all  over  the 
city.  Oil  is  used  instead  of  lard  or  butter,  and  the 
air  is  full  of  an  undesirable  aroma.  This,  together 
with  the  smell  of  decayed  vegetables,  garbage,  and 
other  offensive  matter,  makes  a  very  unpleasant  at- 
mosphere for  the  foreigner.  If  there  were  no  sites 
of  land  alloted  for  the  exclusive  occupancy  of  for- 
eigners outside  of  the  walls,  a  residence  at  any  of 


CHINA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  101 

the  ports  opened  by  the  treaties  would  be  intolera- 
ble. As  it  is,  the  foreign  commercial  business  is 
mostly  transacted  in  the  house,  called  hong,  of  the 
merchant  in  the  foreign  settlement ;  and  whoever 
has  occasion  to  go  into  the  native  city,  returns  as 
soon  as  he  can  accomplish  his  errand. 

In  all  marts  of  trade,  the  coolies  are  the  beasts 
of  burden.  They  work  singly  and  in  pairs,  to  an 
indefinite  number.  On  their  back  and  shoulders  is 
carried  all  the  merchandise  and  produce.  There  are 
no  drays  or  wheelbarrows  to  divide  this  labor.  No 
matter  what  is  to  change  position,  the  services  of 
the  coolies  are  required.  The  heaviest  machinery 
and  the  largest  spars  are  carried  by  them.  Their 
number  is  legion,  and  when  at  work,  they  make  the 
town  ring  with  the  song  of  M  Ha-Ko,  Ho-Ka,"  as 
they  jog  along  the  street.  There  are  no  sidewalks, 
the  street  or  road  is  the  walk  over  which  footmen 
pass. 

The  hiring  of  Chinese  coolies  to  go  to  the  West 
Indies,  has  engaged  the  attention  of  traders.  Late- 
ly for  many  years,  the  labor  of  the  coolie  has  been 
contracted  for  a  term  of  years,  and  the  coolie  taken 
to  the  West  Indies.  Six  to  eight  dollars  per  month 
and  board,  and  the  promise  to  return  him  to  China, 


{    - 


1         (it 


102  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

have  been  the  usual  terms  upon  which  the  coolie 
has  consented  to  go.  But  so  much  dissatisfaction 
has  attended  the  adventure  —  arising  from  a  miscon- 
ception of  it  by  the  coolie  as  well  as  the  alarm  of 
his  friends  —  that  the  business  has  grown  into  dis- 
favor. These  laborers  are  undoubtedly  well  adapt- 
ed for  work  in  hot  latitudes,  and  their  labor  would 
be  remunerative  on  sugar,  rice  and  cotton  plan- 
tations. 


CHIJVA  AjYD  THE  CHINESE.  1Q3 


CHAPTER  XX. 


THE    REBELS  —  TAEPING  WANG. 


It  is  now  full  thirteen  years  since  the  Rebellion 
first  showed  its  head  in  the  vicinity  of  Canton. 
The  Coolie  boy  whom  Father  Roberts  taught  and 
meant  to  christianize,  has  become  the  Mohammed  of 
1862 ;  and,  enthroned  in  his  heavenly  Yamun  at 
Nankin,  under  the  address  of  "  Taeping  Wang," 
dictates  to  hordes  of  followers.  It  is  believed  that 
there  are  in  all  the  provinces  at  least  one  million  of 
armed  men  enrolled  under  his  banners.  They  are 
led  in  different  directions  to  the  four  points  of  the 
compass  under  four  general  chiefs,  styled  Northern 
King,  Eastern  King,  Southern  King,  Western  King, 
and  have  overrun  three-fourths  of  the  heart  of  Chi- 
na. They  have  laid  under  heavy  contribution  of  life 
and  property  hundreds  of  villages  and  thousands  of 
hamlets,  and  with  fire  and  knife  desolated  the  coun- 


10J.  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

try.  It  is  usual  for  them  to  kill  the  old  people  and 
the  young  children,  and  press  into  their  service  the 
middle  aged  of  both  sexes.  They  are  courageous 
and  cruelly  vindictive,  and  having  been  engaged  so 
long  in  this  business  of  war,  they  now  have  no  in- 
clination to  return  to  the  honest  avocations  of  peace. 
Taeping  Wang  claims  to  be  divine,  in  the  Christian 
sense.  The  Emperor  claims  also  to  be  the  represen- 
tative of  heaven  on  earth.  But  the  rebel  chief  is 
not  content  with  simply  holding  that  position.  He 
takes  a  loftier  flight,  and  insists  that  he  is  the  broth- 
er of  Jesus  Christ,  and  now  daily  takes  his  author- 
ity and  inspiration  from  God  our  father.  The  Em- 
peror knows  not  the  man  of  Calvary  or  his  inspired 
tenets.  He  is  more  familiar  with  Confucius.  Not 
so  Taeping  Wang.  He  is  a  believer  in  the  divinity  - 
of  Christ.  He  observes  the  Sabbath.  He  and  his 
household  repeat  the  Lord's  prayer  morning  and  eve-  • 
ning,  and  recognize  the  ten  commandments  substan- 
tially, though  if  half  of  what  I  hear  is  true,  very 
imperfectly  observe  them ;  but  he  demands  that  all 
persons  shall  acknowledge  him  as  divine,  and  com- 
missioned to  rule  the  earth,  both  temporally  and 
spiritually.  Because  of  this  quasi  recognition  of 
the  Christian  religion,  no  doubt  many  at  first  thought 


CHIJYA    AJVD    THE    CHINESE.  105 

the  rebellion,  if  successful,  would  be  the  entering 
wedge  to  the  evangelization  of  the  u  Flowery  King- 
dom." Hence  the  rebels  at  the  outset  had  much 
sympathy,  but  as  the  aspirations  of  their  chief  leak 
out  the  tide  ebbs  in  another  direction,  and  now  both 
merchant  and  missionary  come  nearer  together  in 
their  estimate  of  the  intellectual  and  moral  charac- 
ter of  these  long-haired  Asiatics.  The  result  is  that 
foreign  troops  (British  and  French)  are  aiding  the 
Imperial  authorities  to  finish  the  rebellion.  Already 
several  battles  have  been  successfully  fought  near 
the  port  of  Shanghai,  and  the  probability  is  that 
these  efforts  will  be  renewed  until  peace  is  restored 
to  the  native  population  in  that  par,t  of  the  Empire, 
at  least. 

The  Taepings  claim  that  they  wish  to  unseat  the 
present  Imperial  government  because  it  is  Tartar, 
and  instead  found  a  pure  Chinese  dynasty,  and  trans- 
fer the  seat  of  authority  to  Nankin,  the  old  capital 
when  ruled  by  emperors  of  Chinese  descent,  centu- 
ries ago. 

The  distracted  condition  of  the  country  has  been 
very  injurious  to  commerce.  There  has  been  much 
risk  and  difficulty  in  introducing  foreign  merchandise 
into  the  interior,  and  transporting  the  teas  and  silk 

5* 


106  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

to  the  seaboard.     More  or  less  tribute  has  been  ex- 
acted by  the  rebel  authorities  on  the  creeks  and  riv- 
ers, the  natural  canals  of  China,  and  not  a  few  have 
lost  their  lives.     Besides,  in  many   localities  acres 
and  acres  of  the  mulberry,  whose    leaves  feed  the 
silk  worm,  have  been  devastated,  as  well  as  the  tea. 
The  amount  of  production  has  become  less  and  less 
year  after  year  ;  and  thus,  while  the  Chinese  them- 
selves have  been  great  sufferers,  the   consumers   of 
Europe  and  the  United  States  also  have  been  com- 
pelled to  contribute  indirectly  to  the  caprice  and 
wantonness  of  this  fanaticism.     What  is  still  worse, 
is  the  fact  that  the  Taepings  do  not  succeed  in  retain- 
ing, even  in  their  loyal  districts,  the  respect  of  the 
people,  and  cannot  rely  upon   the   proper   cultiva- 
tion of  the  land.     The  farmer  fears  that  he  will  be 
plundered  of  his  rice  and  other  produce,  and  is  quite 
content  to  raise  enough  for  his  own  immediate  use, 
and  stoically  waits  for  peace.     The  native  merchant 
is  suspicious  that  he  will  be  squeezed  dry  if  he  con- 
tinues his  business,  so  he  is  apt  to  hide  his  treasure 
and  idle  away  his  time  in  small  gambling,  or  "lap 
himself  in  Elysium  "  in  some  opium-house.      The 
rebel  military  chest,  therefore,  is  usually  replenish- 
ed by  some  fresh  foray  into  a  district  not  before  dis- 


CHINA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  107 

turbed,  and  all  classes  are  forcibly  compelled  to  con- 
tribute their  mite,  and  are  glad  to  escape  with  their 
lives. 

Such  a  state  of  things  is  unnatural  in  any  coun- 
try, and  invariably  comes  to  an  end.  It  has  culmi- 
nated even  here.  This  is  not  a  fighting  people. 
They  prefer  talk  and  trade  to  the  knife  and  idleness. 
Labor  and  its  necessity  is  the  first  lesson  taught  to 
the  Chinese  in  infancy,  and  the  conviction  is  pro- 
duced that  this  is  the  way  to  propitiate  the  Evil 
Spirit  —  the  only  invisibility  that  the  Chinese  dread. 
According  to  their  religious  instruction,  they  have 
nothing  to  fear  from  the  Good  Spirit.  But  the  Evil 
Spirit  is  in  the  wind,  the  water,  the  cloud,  the  rain- 
drop, and  in  darkness  and  light,  and  must  be  pro- 
pitiated. 

As  by  the  law  of  the  land  property  descends  to 
the  eldest  child  —  the  male  taking  precedence  of  the 
female  —  and  devise  by  legacy  is  not  tolerated,  large 
estates  accumulate,  and  want  and  poverty  abound. 
A  large  majority  of  the  people  are  in  the  latter  cate- 
gory, and  their  constant  effort  is  to  get  the  chow- 
chow  of  to-day.  If  successful  in  rising  above  the 
general  mass,  their  every  eifort  is  to  add  to  what- 
ever is  thus  gained,  even  to  the  en  I  of  their  lives. 


108  OBSERVATIONS    OJY 

The  increase  of  property  gives  them  no  ambitious 
aspirations  for  political  power.  The  Chinaman  is 
content  with  being  able  to  wear  more  and  richer  silks 
and  satins,  having  at  his  elbow  more  and  richer  chow- 
chow,  and  enlarging  his  household.  Indeed,  they 
are  slow  to  be  ostentatious,  though  as  vain  as  the 
peacock,  lest  the  mandarin  of  their  district  should 
politely  notice  their  improved  condition,  and  some 
day  without  invitation  request  the  favor  of  a  cum- 
shaw,  or  a  trifling  loan  of  a  few  thousand  taels,  of 
course  never  to  be  repaid. 

It  is  this  propensity  to  labor  and  trade  which  un- 
derlies and  sustains  the  commerce  of  this  big  and 
populous  empire.  It  was  gigantic  before  the  rebel- 
lion. It  is  large  even  now.  The  last  census  was 
taken  some  ten  years  ago,  and  the  official  records  at 
Pekin  foot  up  over  400,000.000  of  souls.  And  why 
this  record  is  not  trustworthy,  it  is  difficult  to  learn. 

It  is  worthy  of  belief,  for  it  is  compiled  from  the  re- 

i 
turns  of  the  Tepaou  in  each  census  district,  who  is 

personally  responsible  for  the  land  tax  in  his  dis- 
trict, and  which  is  assessed  per  capita  upon  the  oc- 
cupier of  the  land,  wTho  is  liable  to  be  dispossessed  in 
case  of  non-payment.  With  such  a  vast  population 
to  work,  feed  and  clothe,  and  blessed  with  fertile 


CHIJYA  AJYD  THE  CHINESE.  109 

lands,  rewarding  the  tiller  of  the  soil  with  two  and 
three  crops  every  twelve  months,  no  wonder  that  the 
people  of  the  nations  of  the  West  and  the  Isles  of 
the  Seas  are  constantly  seeking  this  far  off  country, 
and  never  fail  to  find  a  remunerating  market. 


HO  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 


CHAPTER  XXL 


THE   NEW   TREATIES. 


TITHE  treaty  of  Wanghia  provided  that  at  the  ex- 
X  piration  of  ten  years,  either  party  should  have 
the  right  to  propose  additions  and  modifications. 
Experience  demonstrated  that,  notwithstanding  the 
trade  had  been  extended  to  new  markets,  still  trade 
with  the  Empire  at  large  remained  unopened.  Be- 
sides, a  multitude  of  questions  and  disputes  in  the 
transaction  of  business,  were  daily  occurring,  and  the 
necessity  was  more  and  more  felt  of  having  an  op- 
portunity of  reaching  more  directly  the  ear  of  the 
Emperor.  And  hence  that  it  was  of  great  impor- 
tance for  the  minister  to  have  the  right  to  go  to  Pe- 
kin,  and  there  transact  his  official  business  on  the 
footing  of  perfect  equality.  Accordingly,  William 
B.  Reed,  a  distinguished  citizen  of  the  state  of  Penn- 


CHIjYJI    AjYD    THE    CHINESE.  m 

sylvania  was  appointed  by  the  President  of  the 
United  States  minister  to  China,  and  directed  to  get 
a  new  treaty.  This  was  accomplished  in  June  1858, 
and  duly  signed  at  Tientsin.  By  virtue  of  this  new 
treaty  two  additional  ports  were  opened  to  foreign 
trade,  namely,  Swatow,  and  Taiwan  on  the  island  of 
Formosa,  and  the  tonnage  duty  was  lessened  one  fifth. 
In  November  of  the  same  year  at  Shanghai,  the 
tariff  of  duties  on  imports  and  exports  was  materially 
modified  and  lessened,  and  provision  made  for  the 
transportation  and  sale  by  the  foreign  merchant,  in- 
ward and  outward,  to,  from,  and  at  any  part  of  the 
interior,  of  merchandise  and  produce.  For  the  first 
time  in  the  history  of  treaty  making  with  the  gov- 
ernment of  China,  this  treaty  of  Tientsin  provided 
that  the  missionary  might  pursue  his  calling  at  the 
ports  opened  to  foreign  trade,  and  receive  the  pro- 
tection of  government.  It  was  likewise  provided  that 
all  rights  and  privileges  theretofore  or  thereafter 
granted  to  any  other  nation  by  the  emperor,  should 
at  once  enure  to  the  United  States.  The  English 
and  French  negotiated  similar  treaties  the  same  year. 
The  English  treaty,  in  addition  made  provision  for 
the  opening  of  the  ports  of  Tangchow,  Tientsin, 
Newchwang,  and  three  ports  on  the  Yangtze   river. 


112  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

None  of  these  new  treaties,  however,  were  to  go  into 
effect  till  they  were  duly  ratified  by  the  home  gov- 
ernment, and  ratifications  exchanged ;  and  this  was 
to  transpire  within  one  year  thereafter. 


CHINA  J1JYD  THE  CHINESE.  H3 


CHAPTER   XXII. 

HOW  THE   NEW   TREATIES   WERE   RATIFIED.  —  TAKU    FORTS. 

IN  the  following  year,  John  E.  Ward  of  Georgia, 
was  appointed  United  States  minister  to  China, 
and  reached  Shanghai  in  the  month  of  May  1859. 
He  had  the  ratified  treaty,  and  was  under  instruction 
to  proceed  to  Pekin  and  exchange  ratifications.  Mr. 
Bruce,  the  British  minister,  and  M.  Bourbillon  the 
French  minister,  were  also  at  Shanghai  on  a  similar 
errand  for  their  respective  governments.  These  three 
envoys  departed  from  Shanghai  in  June,  intending  to 
reach  the  seat  of  government  by  the  way  of  Tient- 
sin. When  they  arrived  off  the  mouth  of  the  Peiho 
river,  they  were  informed  by  the  Chinese  governor 
general  that  it  would  be  necessary  for  them  to  pro- 
ceed nine  miles  further  north,  before  they  landed, 
where  they  would  find  conveyances  to  take  them  to 
Pekin,  overland.     They  were  also  informed  that  the 


114  OBSERVATIONS    OJV 

emperor  was  daily  expecting  their  arrival  and  had 
made  suitable  arrangements  for  their  accommodation 
■whilst  they  sojourned  at  the  capital.  The  British 
and  French  ministers  declined  to  go  farther  north  by 
water,  and  insisted  that  the  new  treaties  conceded  the 
right  to  go  up  the  Peiho  river.  They  were  respect- 
fully informed  by  the  Chinese  authorities  that  they 
were  under  orders  without  discretion  to  resist  this, 
and  if  the  ministers  crossed  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of 
the  river  they  would  be  exposed  to  the  cannon  of  the 
Taku  forts.  These  forts  were  built  on  opposite  sides 
of  the  river  a  short  distance  above  its  mouth,  near  a 
town  called  Taku,  and  commanded  the  channel,  which 
was  narrow.  They  were  constructed  of  mud  and 
brick.  After  a  careful  examination,  and  believing 
that  the  resistance  to  their  progress  would  be  weak 
and  soon  overcome,  the  ministers  of  Great  Britain 
and  France  crossed  the  bar  with  their  fleet  of  gun 
boats,  under  the  command  of  the  British  Admiral, 
Sir  James  Hope.  As  soon  as  the  fleet  got  within 
range,  the  cannon  of  these  mud  forts  opened  upon  it 
with  deadly  effect.  Two  vessels  of  the  fleet  were 
sunk,  and  the  others  were^  more  or  less  battered  and 
crippled.  The  cannonade  was  kept  up  for  several 
hours,  the  fleet  returning  the  fire  briskly  without 


CIIIJYA  AjYD  THE  CHINESE.  H5 

producing  a  decisive  result.  Finally  it  was  deter- 
mined to  land  a  party  of  marines  and  storm  the 
forts.  It  was  dark  before  a  landing  was  effected, 
and  the  ground  was  found  to  be  very  soft.  The  force 
pushed  forward  over  this  esplanade  as  best  they  might, 
but  were  interrupted  in  their  progress  by  a  wide 
ditch,  and  the  mud  ankle  deep,  and  sometimes  going 
into  it  up  to  their  knees.  A  portion  of  the  party 
succeeded  in  reaching  the  walls,  and  attempted  to  scale 
them.  But  the  fire  of  the  Chinese  was  so  heavy 
and  destructive,  and  their  resistance  so  stubborn,  the 
order  to  retreat  was  given ;  and  by  the  next  day 
what  remained  of  the  fleet  above  water  was  retired 
in  the  offing.  The  British  admiral  was  severely 
wounded.  There  were  many  casualties  in  the  com- 
mand, and  the  fleet  in  a  few  days  returned  to  Shang- 
hai. 

In  the  mean  time,  the  United  States  minister  not 
finding  any  stipulation  conceding  the  right  to  go  to 
Pekin,  either  by  the  Peiho  river  or  any  other  speci- 
fic route,  complied  with  the  request  of  the  Governor 
General,  and  traveled  to  Pekin  overland.  There  he 
found  commodious  residences  in  readiness  for  the 
Treaty  ministers,  and  learned  to  his  satisfaction  that 
the  Imperial   Government  had  not  anticipated  any 


116  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

hostile  collision  between  the  fleet  and  the  Taku  forts. 
He  was  the  bearer  of  an  autograph  letter  of  credence 
from  the  President  to  the  Emperor,  and  it  was  de- 
sirable to  deliver  the  same  in  person.  To  this  there 
was  no  objection,  but  the  intimation  was  thrown  out 
that  he  would  be  expected  to  kotow  in  the  usual 
manner  to  the  Emperor  when  ushered  into  his  ce- 
lestial presence.  The  United  States  Minister  at 
once  declared  that  he  could  not  do  this,  and  that  he 
must  meet  the  Emperor  upon  a  footing  of  equality. 
He  further  declared  that  he  was  willing  to  comply 
with  all  the  forms  and  ceremonies  of  that  Court 
which  wTere  not  derogatory  to  his  government :  but 
that  he  was  there  as  the  sole  representative  of  the 
President,  and  he  could  tolerate  no  lirie  of  procedure 
that  was  inconsistent  with  perfect  equality  between 
the  two  governments. 

From  the  backing  and  filling  manifested  on  this 
point  by  the  Emperor  and  his  advisers,  it  was  evi- 
dent that  he  was  quite  desirous  to  have  a  personal 
interview  with  the  American  envoy.  Perhaps  this 
desire  was  superinduced  by  the  affair  at  the  Taku 
forts. — He,  however,  dared  not  depart  from  the  usage 
of  his  predecessors  so  far  as  to  dispense  with  the 
kotow  altogether ;    and    finally  intimated  that  the 


CHINA  AJVD  THE  CHLYESE.  H7 

slightest  recognition  of  his  celestial  presence  by  the 
American  Envoy  would  be  deemed  sufficient.  The 
latter  steadily  declined  to  do  any  act  that  could  be 
even  perverted  into  a  recognition  of  any  attribute, 
terrestrial  or  celestial,  which  was  not  accorded  to  the 
President  of  the  United  States.  It  was  arranged 
that  the  formal  exchange  of  the  ratification  of  the 
treaty  should  be  made  with  the  Governor  General 
in  his  capacity  as  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs,  and 
Mr.  Ward  returned  to  Shanghai  in  August. 

Upon  conference  with  the  Minister  for   Foreign 
Affairs  at  Shanghai,   Mr.  Ward  found  there  was  a 
strong  disinclination  then  to  put  the  treaty  into  ope- 
ration, and  it  soon  transpired  that  this  was  owing  to 
an  anticipated  rupture  with  England  and  France  by 
reason  of  their  repulse  from  before  the  Taku  forts. 
Anxious  to  have  citizens  of  the  United  States  avail 
themselves  of  the  two   new  ports  of   Swatow  and 
Taiwan  as  well  as  the  reduced  tonnage  duty  as  early 
as  possible,  Mr.  Ward  finally  consented  to  postpone 
the  execution  of   the   treaty  of   Tientsin   in  every 
other  respect  until  the  English  and  French  difficul- 
ties were  settled.     It  was  under  this  arrangement 
that  the  new  American  treaty  went  into  effect. 

It  was  now  about  time  for  the  ministers  of  Eng- 


118  OBSERVATIONS    OJV 

land  and  France,  who  were  sojourning  at  Shanghai, 
to  get  replies  from  their  respective  governments  in- 
dicative of  their  future  line  of  policy  with  the  Em- 
peror. It  was  soon  announced,  that  a  large  British 
and  French  force,  naval  and  military,  would  ap- 
pear in  the  Chinese  waters  the  ensuing  spring  to 
demand  indemnity  for  the  past  and  security  for  the 
future  ;  and  that,  during  the  interrim,  their  rela- 
tions with  the  Imperial  Government  would  continue 
upon  the  footing  of  their  old  treaties.  After  the 
lapse  of  a  few  weeks,  their  generals  and  other  officers 
began  to  arrive  by  the  mail  route  overland,  the  main 
body  of  their  forces  having  been  sent  around  by  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope.  It  was  late  in  the  spring  be- 
fore these  forces  reached  their  destination.  It  was 
July  before  Lord  Elgin,  special  Ambassador  for  En- 
gland, and  Baron  Gros  in  the  same  capacity  for  France, 
had  arrived  out ;  and  the  allied  forces  again  appeared 
off  the  Peiho  in  August  1860,  though  with  more 
imposing  and  far  greater  strength  than  in  the  pre- 
ceding year.  They  immediately  commenced  their 
work  of  reducing  the  forts.  This  work  was  finished 
in  a  few  days,  and  then  they  started  for  Pekin. 
With  the  usual  delays  of  skirmishing  ancl  negotiation 
at  different  points  along  the  route,  the  allies  finally 


CHIJYA   AJVD    THE    CHINESE.  "  \\§ 

t 

sighted  the  walls  of  the  imperial  capital  in  October. 
The  Emperor  fled  to  Zehol  in  Tartary,  the  land  of  his 
ancestors.  The  allies  burnt  down  one  of  his  palaces 
called  the  "summer  palace,"  some  nine  miles  outside 
of  the  gates  of  the  city,  looted  it  of  its  well  filled  and 
very  valuable  treasures,  embracing  the  richest  of  silks, 
satins,  crapes,  pearls,  diamonds  and  precious  stones, 
that  had  been  accumulating  there  .during  a  long  se- 
ries of  years,  and  conquered  a  peace.  They  com- 
pelled the  Imperial  Government  to  agree  to  pay  their 
war  expenses ;  and  as  security  it  mortgaged  in  advance 
two  fifths  of  the  customs  revenue  from  foreign  trade  ; 
and  thereupon  their  treaties  made  at  Tientsin  in 
June  1858,  were  proclaimed  to  be  in  full  force  and 
effect. 

The  additional  advantage  conferred  upon  foreign 
commerce  by  the  British  treaty,  was  the  privilege 
of  trading  to  the  ports  of  Tangchow,  Tientsin,  and 
Newchwang  in  the  north,  and  to  the  ports  of  Chin 
Kiang,  Kew  Kiang,  and  Han  Kow  on  the  great  river 
Yangtze.  The  treaty  likewise  conceded  to  foreigners 
the  right  to  travel  in  the  interior  upon  the  passport 
of  the  consul,  countersigned  by  the  intendant  of  cir- 
cuit. It  was  provided  however,  that  the  bearer  of 
the  passport  should  not  visit  any  place  occupied  by 


120  OBSERVATIONS  CLY 

the  Chinese  rebels,  on  pain  of  forfeiting  all  protection, 
and  liable  to  punishment  by  the  authorities  of  his 
own  country.  These  provisions  virtually  opened  to 
the  outside  world  a  country  of  immense  resources  and 
wealth,  which  theretofore  had  been  studiously  locked 
up  ;  and  whose  inhabitants  by  every  preceding  arrange- 
ment had  been  carefully  and  jealously  withdrawn,  as 
far  as  practicable,  from  mingling  unrestrained  with  the 
people  who  came  there  from  other  lands.  Trading 
on  the  great  river  commenced  at  once.  Within  the 
space  of  one  year  upward  of  twenty  steam  vessels 
were  regularly  and  constantly  employed  in  naviga- 
ting it  between  Shanghai  and  Hankow,  the  upper 
port  distant  over  eight  hundred  miles  from  the  sea. 
The  number  of  sailing  craft  in  the  interest  of  for- 
eigners is  over  one  hundred,  and  all  doing  a  thriving 
business.  They  are  laden  upward  for  the  most  part 
with  foreign  merchandise  and  treasure,  and  return 
with  valuable  cargoes  of  tea  and  other  native  pro- 
duce. The  steamers  carry  passengers  and  the  mails ; 
and  the  Chinese  avail  themselves  of  this  opportunity 
instead  of  jogging  along  in  their  native  craft  as  in 
former  days.  This  change  is  fast  working  a  revolution 
in  the  old  slow  coach  mode  of  transacting  business 
with  the  Orientals,  and  the  time  probably  is  not  far 


CHINA  AJVD   THE  CHINESE.  121 

distant  when  foreign  vessels  will  be  as  thick  on  the 
Yangtze  as  on  the  leading  thoroughfares  of  Europe 
and  America.  Steam  vessels,  both  side  wheel  and 
screw,  are  built  in  England  and  the  Uuited  States, 
carried  to  China  and  there  put  together.  The  ship 
carpenter  and  the  machinist  of  the  West  have  already 
reached  China.  Hulls  and  machinery  are  now  con- 
structed there ;  and  steamers  of  twenty-five  tons 
carrying  capacity  and  upwards,  are  launched  for  use 
on  the  Yangtze  and  smaller  inland  rivers  and  lakes. 
The  Chinese  are  fast  becoming  the  owners  of  these 
vessels.  Ere  the  present  generation  shall  have  passed 
away,  it  is  extremely  probable  that  the  antique  junks 
and  luggers,  which  have  constituted  the  mercantile 
marine  for  thousands  of  years,  at  least  in  the  vicini- 
ty of  the  great  plain,  will  be  supplanted  by  faster, 
larger,  and  less  expensively  navigated  vessels  of 
modern  times. 


6 


122  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 


CHAPTER    XXIII. 


SHANGHAI. 


THE  accommodations  in  the  foreign  settlements 
differ  at  the  various  ports.  In  most  of  the 
ports,  the  settlement  is  a  mere  huddle  of  houses  and 
godowns,  in  the  occupancy  of  foreigners.  The  one 
at  Shanghai,  however,  rises  to  a  higher  grade.  It  is 
laid  out  like  a  city  at  home.  It  extends  along  the 
harbor  for  the  distance  of  three  miles,  and  has  a 
breadth  of  one  mile.  It  is  laid  out  into  wide  and 
macadamized  streets,  well  drained  with  brick  sewers, 
has  an  abundance  of  public  lamps  to  light  the  streets, 
an  efficient  and  well  organized  police,  a  capacious 
race  course,  and  neat  and  commodious  buildings. 

The  residences  of  the  merchants  are  large  and  ele- 
gantly finished,  and  admirably  constructed  for  com- 
fort. The  rooms  are  high  and  airy,  with  windows 
opening  to  the  surface  of  the  floor  upon  a  wide  pi- 


CHLYA    AJVD    THE    CHINESE.  123 

azza,  and  thus  affording  proper  ventilation  for  a  hot 
and  debilitating  climate,  and  sufficient  swing  for  the 
large  punkas  that  fan  them.  Many  of  these  resi- 
dences cost  twenty  thousand  taels  to  construct,  and 
half  as  many  for  the  furniture.  They  may  be  call- 
ed, with  propriety,  palatial  private  hotels.  One  of 
them,  it  is  said,  cost  the  present  proprietors  one  hun- 
dred thousand  taels,  equal  to  one  hundred  and  forty- 
eight  thousand  dollars,  United  States  currency. 
Another  is  reputed  to  be  the  most  finished  and  best 
arranged  establishment  in  every  appointment  in  all 
the  East  Indies.  It  is  proper  to  remark,  that  the 
proprietors  of  these  luxurious  and  fascinating  abodes 
hasten  to  open  wide  their  doors  to  the  wayfarer,  and 
invariably  greet  him  with  a  hearty  welcome. 

The  settlement  also  has  its  church  edifices,  and 
Christian  service  is  observed  with  as  much  regulari- 
ty and  punctuality  as  in  Western  lands.  The  build- 
ings mostly  are  built  of  brick,  and  have  large  court 
yards,  well  supplied  with  plants  and  shrubbery. 

The  Press  is  also  represented.  There  are  two 
daily  newspapers,  and  two  weeklies,  printed  in  the 
English  language.  The  job  printing  is  reputed  to 
be  lucrative.  A  perusal  of  the  advertisements  in 
the  newspapers  makes  one  feel  at  home. 


124  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

Since  the  opening  of  the  Yangtze  river  to  foreign 
trade,  the  commerce  of  the  port  has  greatly  increas- 
ed. It  is  the  entrepot  to  Central  China.  The  river 
is  now  navigable  to  Hankow,  nearly  one  thousand 
miles  inland,  for  sail  and  steam  vessels,  and  enters 
the  heart  of  China.  The  merchandise,  both  inward 
and  outward,  is  unladen  at  Shanghai,  and  the  duties 
are  there  paid.  Sometimes  the  harbor  is  much 
crowded  with  foreign  vessels,  and  a  goodly  number 
are  always  at  anchor.  Twenty  nationalities  are  rep- 
resented by  as  many  consuls,  vice  consuls,  and  com- 
mercial agents.  Five  only,  namely,  the  United 
States,  British,  French,  Russian,  and  Prussian,  are 
Treaty  Powers,  and  their  peoples  enjoy  the  rights 
of  exterritoriality.  The  Chinese  countenance  the 
others,  and  allow  their  peoples  to  trade  the  same  as 
those  of  the  Treaty  Powers. 

It  is  customary  for  each  nationality  to  fly  its  flag 
daily,  and  the  number  is  so  many,  that  the  Chinese 
frequently  speak  of  the  port  as  "  a  port  of  many 
flags." 

The  cost  of  living  to  the  foreigner,  is  according  to 
his  taste  for  native  or  foreign  eatables  and  drinkables. 
Europe  and  America  send  thither  in  excellent  con- 
dition green  vegetables,  green  corn,  green  peas,  fresh 


CHIJYA   AND    THE    CHINESE.  125 

butter,  cheese,  dried  and  smoked  meats,  preserved 
fruits  and  jams  of  every  variety,  wines  also,  and 
brandies.  To  these  the  foreigner  quite  naturally  in- 
clines ;  but  as  they  are  brought  from  afar,  and  many 
months  must  necessarily  elapse  before  the  shipper  can 
get  a  return  from  his  outlay,  they  command  a  high 
price  for  the  consumer  to  pay. 

Tropical  fruits  abound,  and  the  market  is  supplied 
with  game  and  an  excellent  quality  of  mutton.  Irish 
potatoes  are '  seldom  seen.  A  palatable  potato  is 
raised  in  Macao  and  brought  up  the  coast,  but  it  is 
small,  wet,  and  not  very  nutritious.  Occasionally 
potatoes  survive  a  voyage  across  the  Pacific,  from 
California,  and  are  quickly  caught  up  by  the  foreign- 
ers. The  Chinese  do  not  care  for  them,  but  a  cargo 
of  rice  engages  their  attention  as  soon  as  it  reaches 
port. 

The  native  trade  between  this  port  and  the  inte- 
rior, and  up  and  down  the  coast,  is  large  and  profit- 
able. The  native  craft,  consisting  of  junks  and 
small  luggers  for  the  creeks  and  rivers,  at  all  times 
crowd  the  harbor.  A  portion  of  it  is  set  apart  for 
their  exclusive  use ;  and  it  is  said  that  as  many  as 
ten  thousand  are  often  anchored  at  the  same  time. 
Their  masts,   when  seen  at  a  distance,  present  the 


126  OBSERVATIONS  OA" 

appearance  of  a  forest.  They  arc  similar  to  the 
North  River  sloops,  and  about  the  same  burthen. 
The  luggers  are  usually  manned  by  a  crew  of  ten, 
and  the  junks  by  twice  that  number. 

It  is  a  characteristic  of  the  Chinese  to  go  in 
crowds,  whatever  may  be  the  work.  And  it  is  not 
exaggeration  to  sav  that  one  foreigner  will  do  the 
work  of  three  Chinese.  The  latter,  however,  work 
in  patience  in  heat  and  cold,  in  rain  and  sunshine. 

The  native  city  is  called  Shanghai  from  its  locali- 
ty. The  name  is  a  compound  of  two  Chinese  char- 
acters translated  slicing  and  hai,  and  correspond  in 
meaning  with  the  English  words  above  and  water. 
The  city  is  situate  in  latitude  31  deg.  12  min.  north, 
and  longitude  121  deg.  28  min.  east  from  Green- 
wich, on  the  Wangpoo  river,  near  its  junction  with 
the  Soochoo  creek,  and  twelve  miles  above  the  inter- 
section of  the  Woosung  river  with  the  Yangtze,  and 
fifty  miles  from  the  sea.  The  Wangpoo  river  and 
the  Soochoo  creek  when  united,  form  the  Woosung. 
Vessels  drawing  twenty-two  feet  of  water  can  cross 
the  bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  Woosung,  at  spring  tide, 
and  come  up  to  the  harbor.  The  tides,  however, 
are  so  strong,  and  the  channel  so  tortuous  at  some 
points,  that  it  is  necessary  to  take  a  pilot. 


CHINA  AND   THE  CHINESE.  \9>1 

The  surrounding  country  is  flat,  and  rice  and  cot- 
ton are  the  staple  productions.  There  are  no  hills 
or  mountains  in  sight,  and  it  is  necessary  to  travel 
many  miles  to  reach  them.  The  summer  climate  13 
hot  and  unhealthy,  with  little  of  rain  or  thunder  and 
lightning.  Weeks  transpire  without  a  drop  or  a  roll 
or  a  flash.  But  when  these  elements  do  make  their 
appearance,  the  whole  heavens  are  vivid  with  the 
electric  light,  and  the  earth  trembles  with  the  rever- 
beration of  the  terriffic  peals  of  thunder,  and  the 
water  pours  from  above  in  torrents.  The  Chinese 
consider  the  heavens  as  the  residence  of  their  celes- 
tial gods ;  and  on  these  occasions  they  seem  to  be- 
lieve that  a  fearful  quarrel  is  raging  among  them  on 
high.  But,  they  say,  a  balance  of  power  is  preserv- 
ed among  these  combatants  for  dominion  in  the  sky  ; 
and  when  the  sun  —  the  lovely  king  of  all  —  comes, 
the  rnelee  subsides,  and  each  again  moves  quietly  on 
within  his  own  peaceful  orbit. 

In  the  winter  the  climate  is  cold  enough  for  a  fire 
in  the  sitting  room,  and  some  ice  is  seen  in  the  month 
of  February.  Snow  is  rare,  though  in  the  February 
of  31862,  to  the  profound  astonishment  of  all,  it  fell 
to  the  depth  of  two  feet  on  the  level.  It  soon  dis- 
appeared however.     The  rays  of  the  sun   were  too 


128  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

strong  for  it  even  at  that  season  of  the  year.  As 
the  Chinese  are  superstitious,  many  were  the  predic- 
tions of  good  and  evil  on  the  happening  of  this  event. 
Some  went  so  far  as  to  predict  the  downfall  of  the 
rebellion.  Other  wiseacres  foretold  the  overthrow 
of  the  imperial  government.  All  agreed  that  this 
big  fall  of  snow  was  ominous  of  some  extra  event  to 
come  off  during  the  current  year.  And  when  short- 
ly after  it  was  officially  announced  that  the  British 
and  French  forces  were  to  be  employed  in  aid  of  the 
Emperor,  the  vaticinations  of  the  imperialists  became 
prophecies  fulfilled.  The  success  thus  far  of  the 
allies  over  the  rebels  strengthens  these  presentiments, 
and  inclines  the  masses  to  have  more  confidence  in 
the  ability  of  their  government  to  disperse  treason, 
and  restore  order  and  tranquillity  once  more  to  their 
distracted  country. 

The  foreign  population  of  Shanghai  permanently 
ashore  is  supposed  to  exceed  two  thousand.  Add  to 
this  number  eight  thousand  for  those  who  belong  to 
the  shipping  and  for  the  troops,  and  we  have  in  round 
numbers  ten  thousand  as  the  quota  of  foreign  popu- 
lation afloat  and  ashore  at  this  port.  Since  Ningpo 
was  seriously  threatened  by  the  rebels,  the  native 
population  has  largely  increased.     The  merchants, 


CHIjYA    J1JYD    THE    CHINESE.  129 

gentry,  and  those  of  the  lower  classes  who  could  get 
away,  gradually  and  constantly  left  it  for  many 
weeks  before  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  rebels,  and 
when  they  finally  got  possession  in  December  1861, 
Ningpo  may  be  said  to  have  been  depopulated. 
Most  of  these  flying  people  in  their  hegira  came  to 
Shanghai.  As  Ningpo  was  a  Foo  city,  it  contained 
at  least  one  million  of  souls.  The  native  population 
of  Shanghai  is  now  estimated  by  the  most  careful 
calculators  at  one  and  a  half  millions. 

Many  of  these  Chinese  are  wealthy.  It  is  often 
the  case  to  meet  with  a  Chinaman  reputed  to  be 
worth  one  million  of  taels,  and  oftener  of  one  hun- 
dred thousand  taels,  whilst  one  falls  in  with  throngs 
who  have  their  fifty  thousand  taels.  In  China  error 
is  not  so  apt  to  be  committed  in  estimating  a  neigh- 
bor's property,  as  in  the  United  States.  For  there 
is  comparatively  but  little  trust  in  commercial  trans- 
actions. The  balance  due  on  the  exchange  of  prop- 
erty is  settled  for  the  most  part  with  silver,  either 
in  the  shape  of  Mexican  dollars,  or  sycee,  that  is,  lumps 
of  pure  silver  made  in  the  shape  of  Chinese  shoes,  and 
therefore  called  shoes  of  sycee.  It  is  customary  to 
bury,  or  hide  in  some  secure  nook,  these   shoes  till 

wanted.     The  Chinaman's  property  is  in  a  tangi- 

6* 


130  OBSERVATIONS    OJV 

k 

ble  condition,  and  hence  it  is  not  difficult  for  him  at 
all  times  to  know  the  extent  of  it.  His  constant 
effort  is  to  keep  this  knowledge  away  from  the  ears 
of  the  mandarins,  so  that  he  may  escape  being 
squeezed.  At  the  same  time,  it  is  the  constant 
effort  of  the  mandarins  to  be  well  posted  in  this 
branch  of  knowledge.  They  squeeze  often,  and  re- 
sort to  various  stratagems  to  gain  their  purpose. 


CHIJK'A  AJVD   THE  CHINESE.  131 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


SQUEEZERS. 


IT  is  deemed  a  high  honor  to  be  the  guest  of  the 
Toutai,  that  is,  governor  of  a  certain  circuit  of 
country.  Once  upon  a  time,  as  the  story  goes,  the 
Toutai  was  unusually  hard  up  for  money.  Though 
the  customs  furnished  him  with  large  amounts,  and  the 
various  guilds,  that  is,  associations  of  trades-people, 
had  contributed  liberally,  yet  the  expense  incurred  in 
constantly  fighting  the  i?nps:  that  is,  the  rebels,  and 
of  furnishing  supplies  to  Pekin  to  enable  the  Empe- 
ror to  repel  the  foreign  devils,  that  is,  the  British 
and  French,  in  their  last  war  of  ,1860,  had  reduced 
his  exchequer  to  a  low  point.  He  cast  about  in  his 
mind  where  to  replenish.  He  had  found  that  some- 
times the  victim  slipped  through  his  fingers  when  he 
sent  a  subordinate  mandarin  to  request  the  designed 
loan.  The  squeeze  is  always  called  a  loan,  though 
of  course  never  to  be  repaid,  and  probably  so  under- 
stood by  both  parties,  for   a   subject   cannot   sue    a 


132  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

mandarin.  So  this  time,  as  it  was  important  to 
realize  the  money,  the  Toutai,  as  rumor  hath  it,  in- 
vited a  rich  Chinese  merchant  to  dine  with  him  at 
his  Yamun,  that  is,  palace.  The  merchant  felt  him- 
self extremely  honored  by  this  unexpected  attention, 
and  promptly  accepted  the  invitation.  He  did  not 
fail  to  be  in  attendance  at  the  designated  hour  in  full 
dress  of  silks,  satin  boots,  and  peacock  feather,  and 
was  very  politely  received.  He  was  served  with  a 
sumptuous  banquet ;  and  after  a  three  hours'  sitting, 
the  servant  brought  in  tea  which,  in  Chinese  eti- 
quette, is  a  notice  from  the  host  to  the  guest  that 
the  entertainment  is  closed.  The  merchant  soon  in- 
dicated that  he  was  about  to  retire  highly  delighted, 
when  the  Toutai  quietly  observed  that  his  expenses 
were  running  high,  and  he  was  in  a  strait  for  sycee. 
The  merchant  did  not  take  the  Toutars  meaning 
and  continued  to  bow  himself  out  of  the  Toutai' s 
presence.  Whereupon  the  latter  flatly  added  that 
he  was  under  the  necessity  of  requesting  from  him 
a  loan  of  two  hundred  thousand  taels  ! 

"  Hi  yah  !  "  exclaimed  the  astounded  merchant 
as  the  truth  flashed  across  his  mind.  "  Impossible  ! 
Your  excellency  cannot  mean  what  you  say !  " 

"  You  have  many  holes  of  that  amount  of  sycee, 


CHINA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  133 

and  I  ask  you  to  empty  only  one,"    rejoined  the 
placid  Toutai. 

The  merchant  hesitated  to  comply  with  the  request, 
and  stoutly  insisted  it  was  utterly  impossible  to  get 
such  a  big  heap  of  sycee.  But  the  ice  was  broken, 
and  the  Toutai  knew  his  man.  So  he  quietly  and 
pleasantly  conducted  the  merchant  to  a  cosy  bed 
chamber  near  by,  and  politely  invited  him  to  enjoy 
it  till  his  friends  outside  fetched  to  the  Yamun  the 
required  sum.  A  fortnight  after,  one  of  his  neigh- 
bors met  the  merchant  on  the  street,  and  not  having 
seen  him  for  over  a  moon  past,  enquired  if  he  had 
been  to  the  tea  and  silk  districts.  The  merchant 
said  no,  bat  he  had  been  dining  with  the  Toutai. 
The  neighbor' 3  envy  was  excited,  but  quickly  subsid- 
ed upon  the  merchant  informing  him  that  the  din- 
ner cost  two  hundred  thousand  taels. 

The  expenses  of  State  during  these  rebel  times  run 
high  ;  and  the  governors,  whose  duty  it  is  to  raise 
the  means  to  defray  them,  are  compelled  to  resort  to 
many  shifts.  On  another  occasion,  as  dame  rumor 
hath  the  story,  the  Toutai  adopted  the  following 
method  of  discharging  his  duty  to  the  emperor. 
The  ammunition  boxes  were  empty,  and  it  was  of 
the  utmost  moment  that  the  same  should  be  replen- 
ished forthwith.     Now,  trade  in  munitions  of  war  is 


134  OBSERVATIONS  0A~ 

contraband,  and  especially  so  with  the  rebels.  Still 
it  is  carried  on  constantly,  and  to  such  an  extent, 
that  one  sometimes  is  led  to  think  that  the  authori- 
ties wink  at  it.  However  that  may  be.  on  the  occa- 
sion in  question,  the  Toutai,  or  some  person  about 
his  Yamun,  it  seems  happened  to  know  who  dealt  in 
the  desired  articles.  A  small  button  mandarin  wait- 
ed upon  the  dealer  in  contraband,  and  in  a  friendly 
way  suggested  that  he  had  better  see  if  he  could  not 
get  a  permit  to  land  from  a  vessel  then  in  port  a 
large  chop  of  powder  and  muskets.  The  dealer  of 
course  replied  yes,  and  at  once  went  to  the  Yamun. 
He  got  a  permit,  and  before  sundown  the  next  day, 
the  powder  and  muskets  were  snugly  stowed  ashore 
in  his  godown.  Not  far  from  the  ensuing  midnight, 
another  small  button  mandarin  called  upon  the  deal- 
er, and  informed  him  that  it  was  necessary  to  go  to 
the  Cheheen's  office,  that  is,  the  district  magistrate's 
office,  to  answer  unto  a  charge  of  violating:  the  rev- 
enue  laws.  The  dealer  briefly  explained  by  what 
authority  he  had  bought  the  powder  and  muskets, 
and  vehemently  protested  against  being  so  causelessly 
disturbed  at  such  an  unseasonable  hour.  The  intru- 
sive visitor  then  informed  the  dealer  in  contraband, 
it  was  for   the  purpose  of  enabling  him   to  explain 


CHINA   AND    THE    CHINESE.  135 

some  previous  transactions,  that  his  attendance  upon 
the  Cheheen  was  now  required.  This  was  a  new 
phase  in  this  transaction,  and  the  dealer's  only  alter- 
native to  save  his  head  was  to  make  terms  without 
delay.  He  lost  no  time  in  making  his  wish  to  settle 
the  matter  known  to  the  mandarin,  who  at  once  sug- 
gested that  the  dealer  could  not  do  better  than  to  al- 
low the  coolies  outside  to  take  away  the  powder  and 
muskets  then  in  the  godown,  and  perhaps  that  would 
end  the  affair.  At  any  rate  under  such  a  disposition 
of  it,  the  dealer  need  not  then  go  to  the  Cheheen,  as 
he  would  take  the  responsibility  of  so  far  obliging 
him  at  that  late  hour  of  the  night,  and  would  him- 
self be  responsible  to  the  Cheheen  for  his  appear- 
ance when  called  for.  The  dealer  assented  cheerful- 
ly, though  his  dealings  under  the  permit  were  taking 
quite  an  unexpected  turn,  but  fully  resolved  to  keep 
clear  thereafter  from  all  dealings  under  permits. 
The  ammunition  boxes  were  thus  amply  replenished 
in  good  time  ;  and  the  guardian  of  the  province  was 
in  a  situation  to  say  to  his  superior  that  he  did  his 
duty,  whenever  called  to  an  account  for  a  lax  admin- 
istration of  the  revenue  laws.  It  is  a  standing  com- 
plaint that  "  the  big  fish  eat  up  the  little  ones." 


136  "  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


CANTON. 


CSAJNTOiS,  or  Quany  Tung,  is  in  the  south  of 
'  China,  in  latitude  23  deg.  6  min.  9  sec.  north, 
and  longitude  113  deg.  15  min.  east  of  Greenwich. 
It  is  situate  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Pearl  river, 
and  not  far  from  seventy  miles  above  the  sea.  It  is 
enclosed  by  a  brick  wall  resting  upon  sandstone,  is 
about  six  miles  in  circumference,  and  has  twelve 
gates.  It  is  divided  into  two  divisions,  called  the 
old  and  new  town.  The  high  officials  reside  in  the 
old  town.  The  foreign  settlement  is  near  the  south- 
ern part  of  the  city,  and  consists  of  a  few  hongs 
and  godowns. 

This  port  was  formerly  the  leading  commercial 
emporium  beyond  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  More 
foreign  business  was  transacted  here  than  at  all  the 
other  open  ports   in   China.     Here   were  imported 


CHIJVA  AjYD  THE  CHINESE.  137 

the  drills,  ginseng,  and  other  merchandise  for  Cen- 
tral China.  They  were  transported  into  the  inte- 
rior some  two  hundred  miles,  in  boats,  on  creeks 
connecting  with  each  other  —  then  carried  across  a 
portage  of  forty  miles  on  mules  —  and  then  reladen 
in  boats,  were  taken  to  theimany  marts  of  trade  in  the 
centre  and  in  the  north-west  of  the  Empire.  The 
teas  and  silk  and  silk  piece  goods  were  transported  in 
the  same  way  and  by  the  same  route  to  Canton,  and 
thence  exported  to  Europe  and  America.  Since  the 
Yangtze  river  has  been  opened  to  foreign  trade,  all 
of  these  imports  and  exports  have  been  diverted  from 
their  former  route,  and  now  ascend  and  descend  the 
great  river  from  and  to  Shanghai. 

The  native  population  is  estimated  at  one  million 
of  souls.  This  estimate,  probably,  is  not  wide  of 
the  mark.  The  prevailing  religion  of  this  vast  pop- 
ulation is  Buddhism.  Buddha  is  their  tutelary 
saint.  But  few  are  educated.  They  are  very  su- 
perstitious and  irascible.  Their  propensity  to  pick 
a  quarrel,  and  resent  an  injury  and  insult  with  the 
knife  and  bludgeon,  far  surpasses  their  race  in  all 
other  parts  of  the  Empire.  They  have  more  of  the 
fighting  character.  They  are  the  most  reliable  and 
best  troops  in  the  service  of   Taeping  Wang,  and 


138  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

wherever  the  rebels  make  their  appearance,  Cantonese 
are  found  among  them.  Most  of  the  rebel  generals 
hail  from  Canton. 

The  pirates  who  infest  the  bays  and  passes  and 
inlets  of  the  coast,  are  usually  Cantonese.  They 
are  energetic  and  daring.  They  do  not  confine  them- 
selves to  the  native  but  also  attack  the  foreign  craft. 
A  few  months  ago  a  party  of  them  attacked  with 
success  an  American  steamer  plying  regularly  on 
the  Pearl  river  between  Hong  Kong,  Macao  and  Can- 
ton. They  took  several  lives,  plundered  the  vessel, 
and  then  scuttled  it.  In  order  to  have  leisure  to 
ransack  the  vessel  free  from  molestation,  they  at 
first  drove  below  the  passengers  and  officers  who  did 
not  escape  by  jumping  overboard.  This  transaction 
was  not  occasioned  by  a  sudden  melee.  The  chief 
actors  were  on  the  steamer  as  passengers,  and  in 
pursuance  of  a  premeditated  plan  to  kill  and  rob. 
The  captain  and  officers  were  foreigners.  In  other 
parts  of  the  Empire,  one  foreigner  on  a  native  craft 
even,  is  quite  sufficient  protection  against  an  attack 
from  evil  minded  Chinese.  It  is  not  uncommon  for 
the  master  of  a  junk  or  lugger  to  hire  the  service  of 
a  foreigner  simply  to  ride  on  his  vessel,  because  Ins 
mere  presence   will  usually  deter  a  piratical  craft 


CHIJVA   JUVD    THE    CHINESE.  139 

from  coming  along  side.  But  the  Cantonese  are 
self-reliant,  and  appear  to  possess  the  courage  of 
Western  people. 

The  natives  in  the  south  of  China  are  apt  to  way- 
lay and  attack  foreigners.  The  boatmen  who  fetch 
and  carry  between  the  ships  and  the  shore,  are  fre- 
quently reported  at  this  nefarious  business.  They 
are  reputed  to  be  too  apt  to  make  way  with  a  for- 
eigner if  the  inducement  is  sufficient,  when  rowing 
or  sculling  him  off  to  the  ship  after  night-fall.  Of- 
ten bodies  are  seen  floating  in  a  decayed  state  about 
the  harbor ;  and  as  sailors  are  transient  persons, 
and  rarely  known  outside  of  their  little  coterie,  it  is 
difficult  to  recognize  these  floating  bodies.  A  Mex- 
ican  dollar  to  an  unprincipled  boatman  is  a  valuable 
acquisition,  for  it  will  furnish  him  with  rice  for  twen- 
ty days  —  two  thirds  of  a  moon.  Sailors,  when 
they  go  ashore  to  kick  up  their  heels  in  the  dust, 
especially  after  long  voyages  —  are  apt  to  have 
many  dollars  in  their  fob.  The  long-haired  Charon 
understands  this  perfectly  well.  He  takes  them 
ashore,  a  ready  crony  of  the  boatman  greets  jolly 
Jack  at  the  landing,  and  straightway  inveigles  him 
to  some  drinking  saloon  hard  by.  Here  the  honest 
tar  carouses  till  his  dollars  are  gone,  and  then  he  is 


140  OBSERVATIONS    OJY 

t 

hustled  aside  for  some  fresh  customer.     If  perchance 
the  brain  withstands  the  many  and  heavy  draughts 
of  beer  and  alcohol  that  Jack  has  taken  aboard,  and 
the  idle  wantons  on  either  hand  have  not  emptied  his 
pockets,  then   comes  the  vocation  of  the  nefarious 
and  heartless  boatman  to  finish  the  work  which  the 
saloon  begun.     And,  if  half  what* is  told  be  true, 
unless  the  sailor  keeps  a  good  lookout  ahead,  he  nev- 
er reaches  his  bunk  in  the  forecastle.     To  obviate 
such  serious  mishaps,  it  has  become  common  for  ship- 
masters to  require  their  crews  to  go  ashore  in  squads, 
so  as  to  help  each  other  in  any  extremity.     But 
even  then,  they  frequently  go  astray,  and  often  un- 
der such  circumstances  never  report  for  duty.     A 
fruitless  search  leaves  the  master's  mind  in  doubt 
whether  the  missing  sailor  has  not  deserted,  and  ship- 
ping another  in  his  stead,  the  vessel  raises  anchor 
and  goes  to  sea.     If  the  missing  man  had  a  knife 
run  into  his  vitals  and  was  then  pitched  overboard, 
when  afterwards  his  body  rises  to  the  surface  of  the 
wrater  and  is  seen  floating  about  the  harbor,  there  is 
no  person  to  recognize  it,  and  all  remembrance  of 
it  passeth  away. 

The  Cantonese  are  skillful  mechanics.     They  carve 
ivory,  wood,  stone,  and  brass ;  and  their  workman- 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  141 

ship  is  exquisite.      Living  is  cheap,  and   labor  is 
cheap.     Ten  cents  per  day  is  more  than  the  gener- 
ality received  for  wages.     The  supply  of  labor  ex- 
ceeds  the   demand.     The  present   generation   have 
grown  up  since  the  foreign  trade  commenced.     Those 
who  frequent  the  open  ports  are  familiar  with  for- 
eign customs  and  manners,  and  the  bars  of  separa- 
tion are  gradually  being  taken  away.     Business  in- 
tercourse is  more  frequent  and  unrestrained.     The 
natives  have  greater  confidence  in  the  good  intention 
and  integrity  of  the  foreigners;  especially  those  who 
belong  to  the  treaty  nations.       A  large  number  of 
the  Cantonese  emigrate  to  California.     As  many  ac- 
quire wealth  under  the  protection  of  the  laws  of  the 
United  States,  a  greater  confidence  in  the  goodness 
of  that  government  prevails  among  the  Chinese  peo- 
ple.    A  constant  trade  is  kept  up  between  these  peo- 
ple on  both  sides  of  the  Pacific.     It  is  a  remunera- 
tive trade,  or  it  would  cease.     The  Chinaman's  at- 
tachment to  his  native  country  is  too  strong  and  en- 
during to  be  consistent  with  his  residence   abroad, 
however  temporary,  if  his  pecuniary   interest   does 
not  draw  and  hold  him  there.     In  either  case,  he 
desires  his  lifeless  body   to  repose  in  the  flowery 
land ;  and   when  one  dies  in  another  country,  the 


142  OBSERVATIONS    OJY 

surviving  relative  or  friend  makes  every  reasonable 
effort  to  take  the  body  home  to  China.  It  is  said, 
there  is  scarcely  a  ship  sails  from  California  bound 
to  China,  without  having  on  board  more  or  less  of 
the  Chinese  dead. 


CH1JVA  AND  THE  CHIJVESE.  143 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


HONG  KONQ. 


HONG-KONG,  or  Hiang  Kiang,  is  an  island  and 
formerly  belonged  to  the  Quang  Tung  province. 
It  is  now  a  British  colony,  having  been  ceded  to  the 
Queen  first  by  the  treaty  of  Canton  in  1841,  and 
secondly  by  the  treaty  of  Nankin  in  1842.  It  is 
situated  off  the  east  coast  of  China,  in  latitude  22  deg. 
16  min.  north,  and  longitude  114  deg.  14  min.  east 
from  Greenwich.  It  is  about  ten  miles  in  length . 
Its  breadth  varies  from  seven  miles  to  one  mile,  and 
is  separated  from  the  main  land,  by  an  estuary  vary- 
ing in  width  from  one  mile  to  one  quarter  of  a  mile- 
It  is  covered  with  high  and  precipitous  mountains, 
rising  from  one  to  two  thousand  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  sea.  Scarcely  any  portion  of  it  can  be  called 
a  valley.  The  soil  is  barren.  The  Chinese,  by  close 
attention,  succeed  in  raising  a  few  vegetables.     It  is 


144  OBSERVATIONS   OjV 

bare  of  forest,  and  there  is  a  scanty  undergrowth. 
Fish  of  excellent  quantity  abounds  in  the  adjacent 
waters.  On  the  island  there  are  several  Chinese 
settlements  where  the  fishermen  repair.  There  are 
supposed  to  be  not  far  from  one  hundred  thousand 
Chinese  residing  on  the  island,  and  two  thousand  for- 
eigners. Victoria  is  the  capital  of  the  colony,  and 
there  the  British  authorities  reside.  The  colony 
has  a  governor,  legislative  council  and  courts  of  ju- 
dicature. The  harbor  is  capacious  and  the  anchor- 
age is  safe  in  deep  water,  close  in  shore.  It  is  a  call 
and  see  port,  and  the  harbor  is  usually  crowded  with 
the  shipping  of  every  nation,  and  thousands  of  Chi- 
nese craft.     It  is  a  free  port. 

An  extensive  import  trade  is  carried  on  in  rice, 
sugar,  alum,  nut  oil,  dye  stuffs,  sulphur,  and  pro- 
visions of  every  sort.  The  exports  are  mainly  man- 
ufactured goods,  opium  brought  from  India,  and 
stones  quarried  on  the  Island.  Many  of  the  imports 
are  exported,  especially  rice  and  sugar.  Large 
quantities  of  the  latter  are  sent  to  Australia  and 
California.  A  large  part  of  the  vessels  that  reach 
Hong  Kong  depart  without  breaking  bulk,  or  leaving 
a  portion,  proceed  to  the  final  port  of  discharge.  The 
principal  mercantile   firms  have  houses  at  all  of  the 


CH1JVA  J1JYD   THE  CHINESE.  145 

open  ports  in  China,  and  some  of  them  also  have 
agents  in  Japan.  The  house  at  Hong  Kong  deter- 
mines from  previous  advices  of  the  state  of  the  mar- 
ket, where  the  vessel  is  to  unload  and  load,  unless 
otherwise  ordered  from  home.  Since  the  rebel  raids 
over  the  tea  and  silk  districts,  it  stands  the  mer- 
chant in  hand  to  look  sharp,  so  as  to  he  well  posted 
where  the  teas  are  to  be  taken  on  board.  Indeed, 
this  is  probably  the  fact  at  all  thnes,  as  prices  and 
qualities  vary  at  different  ports.  But  the  sly  and 
shrewd  Chinaman  also  has  learned  how  to  be  posted 
in  the  markets  of  the  Western  world ;  and  unless 
forced  to  sell  —  an  unusual  occurrence  —  clings 
stubbornly  to  his  teas  till  a  customer  appears  who  is 
willing  to  pay  the  designated  price.  Then  the  teas 
are  settled,  that  is,  bought  and  paid  for,  chop  chop 
that  is,  in  a  trice. 

The  inhabitants  at  Victoria  have  a  hot  climate. 
The  high  hills  to  the  southward  intercept  the  mon- 
soon which  prevails  from  the  south-west  during  the 
summer  months.  To  remedy  this  in  some  measure, 
as  well  as  to  get  room  for  building  purposes  without 
being  compelled  always  to  blast  the  rocks  and  dig 
into  the  mountain,  a  small  slice  of  ground  on  the 
main  land  opposite,  known  as  Cowloon,  was  ceded 


146  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

to  the  Queen  by  the  treaty  of  1860,  upon  the  ad- 
justment of  the  terms  of  peace  at  the  conclusion  of 
her  last  war  "with  the  Emperor.  This  additional 
territory  now  belongs  to  the  colony  of  Hong  Kong, 
and  affords  eligible  locations  for  amusements,  and 
public  and  private  residences. 

In  order  to  be  turned  to  a  good  account  for  the 
avocations  of  commerce,  it  will  be  necessary  to  con- 
struct jetties  extending  out  some  distance  from  the 
beach,  as  the  water  is  not  deep  close  up  on  that  side 
of  the  harbor.  Victoria,  however,  probably  will 
continue  to  hold  the  principal  business,  at  least  for 
many  years.  This  capital  has  progressed  too  far 
with  Western  institutions  not  to  remain  the  chief 
seat  of  the  colony.  It  now  has  the  court  house, 
penitentiary,  post  office,  and  other  public  buildings, 
as  well  as  churches,  reading-rooms,  libraries,  and 
club-houses.  Besides,  the  merchants  have  expended 
too  many  hundreds  of  thousands  of  dollars,  in  the 
construction  of  buildings  and  business  conveniences 
of  various  kinds,  to  be  inclined  to  abandon  them  in 
a  hurry. 


j 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  147 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

FOO-CHOO-FOO. —  TEAS. —  THE  DIFFERENT  KINDS. 

FOO-CHOO-FOO  is  one  of  the  open  ports,  and 
is  situate  in  the  province  of  Fo-kien,  on  the 
river  Min,  about  twenty-five  miles  from  its  mouth. 
It  is  in  latitude  26  deg.  12  min.  24  sec.  north,  and 
longitude  119  deg.  30  min.  east  from  Greenwich. 
It  is  the  capital  of  the  province,  is  a  foo  city,  and 
contains  a  population  of  over  one  million  of  souls. 
It  is  about  seven  miles  in  circumference,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  a  wall  said  to  be  thirty  feet  in  height, 
and  twelve  feet  in  width  at  the  base.  It  has  large 
suburbs,  and  is  surrounded  by  an  amphitheatre  of 
hills,  from  the  summits  of  which,  the  sea  can  be 
descried  in  the  distance.  The  anchorage  for  foreign 
vessels  is  in  the  river  Min,  and  seven  miles  below 
the  city.  The  water  is  too  shallow  for  foreign  ves- 
sels to  approach  nearer   the   city.     Their  cargoes, 


148  OBSERVATIONS    ON 

both  inward  and  outward,  are  transported  in  lighters, 
that  is,  small  covered  boats  which  are  sculled  and 
rowed  up  and  down  this  part  of  the  river.  It  is 
necessary  for  vessels  to  take  a  pilot  for  the  river  nav- 
igation, as  well  as  some  distance  out  to  sea.  There 
are  some  islets  off  the  mouth  of  the  Min  known  as 
the  "  white  dogs,"  and  which  are  at  the  entrance  to 
the  pilotage  ground.  The  most  hazardous  part  of 
the  river  is  near  its  mouth,  as  there  is  a  dangerous 
rock  in  mid  channel  but  far  enough  below  the  sur- 
face of  the  water  to  be  invisible  to  the  stranger. 
First  and  last,  there  have  been  several  shipwrecks  on 
this  rock,  and  valuable  cargoes  lost. 

The  trade  of  this  port  is  large.  It  extends  up 
and  down  the  coast.  The  communication  with  the 
Loo  Choo  islands  and  with  Japan  is  of  considerable 
importance.  The  principal  exports  are  black  teas, 
timber  and  fruits.  The  oranges  are  very  desirable. 
The  teas  are  brought  from  seventy  to  one  hundred 
miles  in  the  interior ;  and  because  they  are  usually 
of  the  black  kind,  an  impression  has  been  produced 
that  black  and  green  teas  are  not  produced  on  the 
same  bush  or  tree.  It  has  been  satisfactorily  ascer- 
tained since  the  country  has  been  opened  to  foreign- 
ers under  the  passport  system,  that  the  contrary  is 


CHINA  AJYD  THE  CHIJVESE.  149 

the  fact.  Both  kinds  are  grown  on  the  same  tree. 
The  difference  in  color  as  well  as  quality  is  to  be  at- 
tributed to  the  age  of  the  leaf  when  picked,  and  the 
climate  in'  which  it  is  grown.  The  same  tree  in 
some  latitudes  and  seasons  has  been  known  to  pro- 
duce leaves  the  decoction  of  which  is  both  green  and 
black,  according  to  the  season  of  the  year  that  the 
leaves  are  gathered.  But  usually  in  the  same  lati- 
tude with  a  similarity  of  cold  and  heat,  wet  and  dry- 
ness, the  color  of  the  decoction  will  be  either  green 
or  black  throughout  the  entire  year.  The  quality 
of  the  tea  is  regulated  by  the  age  of  the  leaf  when 
•  picked,  as  well  as  the  manner  in  which  it  is  dried 
and  prepared  for  market.  Young  hyson  is  made 
from  the  young  leaves  picked  in  early  spring.  Old  hy- 
son, from  the  leaves  of  longer  growth  and  greater  ex- 
posure to  the  rays  of  the  sun.  The  Chinese  do  not 
draw  the  tea  over  the  fire  when  they  wish  to  drink 
it,  as  is  done  in  other  countries.  But  they  put  the 
tea  into  the  cup,  pour  in  some  hot  water,  put  a  lid 
over  the  cup,  and  then  sip  it  off  as  their  taste  may 
dictate ;  of  course  not  half  of  the  virtue  of  the  leaves 
is  extracted  ;  and  it  is  said  that  the  leaves  are  often 
gathered  together,  and  months  and  years  afterwards 


153  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

furnish  delightful  concoctions  to  the  tea  drinkers  in 
other  and  distant  portions  of  the  globe. 

The  timber  exported  is  pine  in  the  log,  from  six 
to  twenty-four  inches  in  diameter.  Large  quantities 
of  it  are  taken  to  Shanghai,  and  there  used  for  build- 
ing purposes.  There  are  no  saw-mills  in  China,  as 
in  the  United  States.  Hence,  the  logs  are  sawed  in- 
to boards  and  plank,  by  the  hand  saw.  The  imports 
are  chiefly  English  and  American  drills,  sugar,  and 
salt.  The  latter  article  is  manufactured  in  China  to 
an  extent  sufficient  in  the  main  to  supply  the  demand 
for  home  consumption.  It  is  of  good  quality.  The 
table  salt  has  coarser  grains  than  is  agreeable  to  the 
taste  of  foreigners.     It  is  a  government  monopoly. 

The  Governor  General  of  the  Province  resides  at 
Foo-choo-foo,  and  it  is  the  chief  city  in  Fo-Kien.  It 
is  usually  written  Foo-choo,  the  latter  syllable  foo 
being  an  addenda  to  designate  the  grade  of  the  city. 
The  climate  is  hot  but  not  unhealthy.  The  streets 
are  narrow  and  filthy,  but  several  canals  extend 
through  the  city,  and  afford  an  outlet  for  refuse  and 
uncleanly  water. 


CHINA   AND    THE    CHINESE.  \^\ 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 


AMOY. 


AMOY,  or  Heamun,  is  another  of  the  open  ports, 
and  is  situated  on  an  island  of  the  same  name 
in  the  Province  of  Fo-Kien.  It  is  in  latitude  24  deg. 
10  min.  3  sec.  north,  and  longitude  118  deg.  13  min. 
5  sec.  east  of  Greenwich.  This  city  is  at  the  south- 
erly end  of  the  island,  near  the  mouth  of  two  rivers 
that  unite  upon  reaching  the  sea  close  by.  One  of 
these  rivers  passes  by  a  large  and  populous  city,  not 
far  distant  in  the  interior,  called  Chang-choo-foo  and 
of  which  Amoy  is  the  sea  port.  The  population  of 
Amoy  is  represented  to  be  nearly,  if  not  quite,  half 
a  million  of  souls.  The  population  of  Amoy  are 
mostly  engaged  in  the  coasting  trade.  They  import 
cotton  from  India,  foreign  drills,  iron,  lead,  steel, 
nuts,  rice,  and  grain.  They  export  teas,  camphor, 
sugar,  sugar  candy,  paper  and  earthen  ware  in  larurn 


152  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

quantities.  Sugar  candy  of  the  finest  quality  is 
brought  from  this  port.  The  native  merchants  are 
reputed  to  be  men  of  wealth  and  enterprise.  The 
city  is  built  on  the  slope  of  hills  extending  to  the 
water's  edge.  The  streets  are  narrow  and  dirty, 
from  six  to  twelve  feet  wide,  but  the  acclivity  pre- 
vents the  water  from  stagnating.  Some  of  the 
streets  are  precipitous,  and  are  ascended  and  de- 
scended by  means  of  stone  steps.  Opposite  the  city 
towards  the  sea,  is  a  small  islet  upon  which  most  of 
the  foreign  community  reside.  It  is  fanned  by  the 
monsoon  blowing  from  the  sea,  and  though  warm  the 
climate  is  delightful,  and  probably  the  most  healthy 
of  all  the  ports  opened  to  foreign  trade.  The  an- 
chorage for  foreign  ships  lies  between  this  islet  and 
the  city  ;  it  is  easy  of  access,  an  abundance  of  wa- 
ter, a  gentle  tide,  and  room  sufficient  for  the  accom- 
modation of  a  large  fleet  of  vessels. 


CHIJVA  AJYD  THE  CHINESE.  153 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


NINGPO. 


1VTINGP0  is  still  another  of  the  open  ports,  and 
-L  l  lies  on  a  river  of  the  same  name  twelve  miles 
from  its  mouth,  in  lat.  29  deg.  51  min.  north,  Ion. 
121  deg.  32  min.  east  from  Greenwich,  in  the  prov- 
ince of  Che  Kiang.  It  is  six  miles  in  circumference, 
enclosed  by  walls  twenty-five  feet  in  height,  and  ten 
feet  broad  at  the  base.  It  has  six  gates.  It  is  well 
supplied  with  shops  and  stores.  There  are  large 
quantities  of  furniture  made  here,  known  as  Ningpo 
furniture.  The  chief  imports  are  drills,  rice,  pro- 
visions, fruits,  spices,  nuts,  dye-woods,  oil,  and 
cotton  ;  and  its  chief  exports  are  tea,  silk,  furniture, 
wood  and  charcoal.  The  surrounding  country,  for 
several  miles,  is  a  valley  covered  with  villages  and 
hamlets.  The  people  are  industrious  and  thrifty,  and 
some  of  the  merchants  are  reputed  to  be  possessed 


154  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

of  very  large  wealth.  There  are  many  millionaires. 
Here  also  much  attention  is  paid  to  education.  There 
are  several  private  schools.  It  is  &foo  city.  It  was 
conquered  from  the  Emperor  by  the  rebels,  in  the 
month  of  December  1861.  The  merchants  and  gen- 
try took  the  alarm  in  season,  and  fled  from  their 
homes.  Tens  of  thousands  of  the  working;  classes 
also  left  the  city.  It  is  difficult  therefore  now  to  es- 
timate the  present  population.  There  were  proba- 
bly one  million  of  souls  before  the  hegira.  This  event, 
of  course,  suspended  the  usual  business  of  the  port, 
and  it  is  not  easy  to  imagine  when  the  same  will  be 
resumed. 


CH1J\'A   AJ\rD    THE    CHUTES  E.  155 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

SWATOW  AND  TAIWAN.  — TYPHOONS. —  FORMOSA. 

THESE  two  ports  were  opened  to  foreign  trade 
under  the  American  treaty  of  1858.  The  for- 
mer is  situate  in  the  province  of  Quang  Tung,  on 
the  coast,  about  three  hundred  miles  above  Hong- 
Kong,  and  contains  a  population  of  over  one  hun- 
dred thousand  Chinese.  A  large  foreign  trade  has 
sprung  up  there.  The  chief  article  of  export  is 
sugar,  and  of  an  excellent  quality.  The  people  are 
unruly  and  turbulent.  It  has  long  been  known  as 
the  harbor  of  pirates. 

It  is  visited  every  year  with  violent  and  destruc- 
tive gales,  called  the  typhoon,  or  big  wind.  Houses 
are  blown  down,  and  ships  of  the  largest  tonnage 
are  swung  from  their  moorings,  and  sometimes  driven 
on  shore,  and  there  left  high  and  dry.  Such  is  the 
force  of  the  wind,  that  the  waves  rise  in  a  very  few 


156  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

minutes  to  a  great  height  —  not  unfrequently  thirty 
and  forty  feet,  and  even  higher.  The  barometer, 
and  livid,  leaden  skies  give  timely  notice,  however, 
of  the  approach  of  these  tornadoes,  and  the  prudent 
and  observant  shipmaster  prepares  for  them.  They 
are  ugly  visitors,  and  universally  dreaded.  They 
usually  occur  in  the  months  of  August  and  October. 
Those  of  October  are  the  most  furious  and  destruc- 
tive. 

The  anchorage  for  ships  is  several  miles  from  the 
city,  the  water  being  too  shallow  to  come  close  in. 
The  country  about  Swatow  is  thickly  populated,  and 
fertile.  The  climate  is  hot,  but  is  not  regarded  as 
insalubrious.  The  natives  are  hardy,  and  those  of 
the  city  and  near  the  sea,  devote  most  of  their  time 
to  fishing.  They  catch  immense  quantities  of  fine 
fish,  and  export  much,  dried  and  salted,  to  other 
ports.  Opium  was  smuggled  into  this  port  for  many 
years,  and  an  illegitimate  and  lucrative  trade  carried 
on  by  small  clipper  vessels.  This  trade  is  now  le- 
galized, but  it  is  doubtful  whether  it  is  as  profitable 
as  formerly,  certainly  not  more  so. 

Tai-wan  is  a  town  of  small  note,  and  lies  on  the 
island  of  Formosa,  near  the  southerly  extremity,  in 
latitude  23  deg.  8  min.  north,  and  longitude  120  deg. 


CHIJVA  AJYD  THE  CHINESE.  15  7 

22  min.  east  from  Greenwich.  It  is  under  the  ju- 
risdiction of  the  provincial  authorities  of  the  pro- 
vince of  Fo  Kien,  and  is  nine  miles  from  the  main 
land.  It  is  considered  the  principal  town  on  the 
island.  Many  years  ago  the  Dutch  carried  on  a 
considerable  trade  there,  and  a  large  number  of  Chi- 
nese junks  annually  visited  it.  If  tradition  be  true, 
it  once  had  a  fine  harbor  and  easy  of  access.  The 
entrance  is  now  choked  with  accumulations  of  sand, 
and  only  vessels  of  light  draught  can  now  safely  en- 
ter the  harbor.  Large  vessels  anchor  outside,  and 
the  merchandise  is  now  taken  off  and  on  by  small 
boats. 

The  island  of  Formosa  is  reported  to  be  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles  in  length  from  north  to  south, 
of  an  unequal  breadth,  with  a  maximum  of  one  hun- 
dred miles,  and  divided  by  an  uneven  range  of  moun- 
tains, which  rise  at  intervals  to  an  extreme  height. 
'The  elevation  of  the  principal  summits  is  estimated 
at  ten  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and 
covered  with  snow  the  year  round.  The  whole  is- 
land is  claimed  by  the  Emperor,  and  a  quasi  recog- 
nition of  his  rule  prevails  among  the  people.  Along 
the  Western  coast  of  the  island  and  for  many  miles 
inward,  mandarins  are  to  be  found  exercising  their 


158  OBSERVATIONS  0A~ 

official  functions  in  the  many  villages  and  hamlets. 
The  people  appear  to  acknowledge  their  supremacy. 
On  the  eastern  slope  of  the  island  their  fealty  is 
looser  and  more  indistinct.  Indeed,  the  class  of  peo- 
ple who  occupy  the  eastern  side  of  the  island  may 
be  called  the  aborigines  ;  whilst  the  western  side  is 
filled  with  the  descendants  of  Chinese  who  have  emi- 
grated to  the  island  from  time  to  time,  during  the 
last  three  centuries.  The  soil  is  fertile  and  climate 
salubrious.  Large  quantities  of  sugar  cane,  rice, 
maize,  and  wheat,  are  grown  here,  and  the  land 
abounds  with  oranges,  melons,  grapes,  peaches,  figs, 
apricots,  pine  apples,  cocoa  and  areca  nuts,  pome- 
granates, and  chestnuts.  The  latter  are  larger  than 
those  found  in  the  United  States,  and  not  so  relish- 
able.  They  are  mealy,  but  very  nutritious.  Salt 
is  made  here  ;  and  near  a  town  called  Kelung,  to- 
wards the  north  end  of  the  island,  coal  has  been  dis- 
covered. It  is  bituminous.  The  camphor  tree  flour- 
ishes here,  and  pine  timber  is  found  in  various  parts 
of  the  island. 

Foreign  vessels  are  constantly  trading  to  Formosa. 
They  frequent  Kelung,  and  find  a  profitable  traffic 
there,  though  not  provided  for  by  treaty  stipulations. 
As  many  if  not  more,  go  to  Kelung  than  to  Taiwan. 
The  people  want  green  tea,  and  cotton  goods,  copper 


CHINA   AND    THE   CHINESE.  159 

cash  and  sycee.  In  return,  they  offer  the  produc- 
tions of  the  island.  Camphor  and  camphor  wood, 
and  timber,  and  fruits,  are  exported,  as  well  as  rice, 
and  maize.  There  have  been  some  shipwrecks  along 
the  island,  and  the  shipmasters  complain  of  inatten- 
tion and  neglect  on  the  part  of  the  mandarins  in  af- 
fording proper  protection  and  assistance.  Even  col- 
lusion with  unprincipled  salvors  is  alleged  against 
the  local  Chinese  authorities.  Instances  that  have 
come  to  light  lead  to  this  conclusion.  Of  course,  the 
way  in  which  such  transactions  occur  is  so  round- 
about, that  it  is  difficult  to  present  the  mandarin  in 
bold  relief,  and  expose  his  base  complicity  to  the  pub- 
lic gaze. 

The  native  craft  from  all  parts  of  China  frequent 
the  island.  It  is  reported  that  as  many  as  five  hun- 
dred junks  of  the  largest  size  annually  come  there, 
and  drive  a  lucrative  trade.  As  the  islanders  part 
with  more  merchandise  than  they  take,  it  follows  that 
large  amounts  of  dollars  and  sycee  are  left  behind  in 
settlement  of  balances.  The  result  is,  that  what  the 
world  in  general  calls  wealth  accumulates,  and  many 
of  the  inhabitants  possess  great  estates.  It  is  assert- 
ed, and  probably  it  is  a  truth,  that  many  of  these  es- 
tates belong  to  Chinese  residing  in  the  provinces  who 
have  leased  land  on  the  island  from  the  emperor, 


160  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

and  supply  the  laborers.  In  addition  to  reaping  a 
rich  harvest  from  these  distant  investments,  the  pro- 
prietor is  the  better  enabled  to  keep  his  wealth  a  se- 
cret at  his  home,  and  thus  escape  a  squeeze  from  the 
mandarin  of  his  district.  This  view  also  accounts 
for  the  absence  of  those  evidences  of  prosperity 
which  wealth  commonly  indicates.  For  a  country 
that  is  known  to  have  been  inhabited  by  a  thrifty 
race  during  two  hundred  years,  there  are  slender  ev- 
idences of  wealth  and  prosperity.  No  paved  high 
roads,  no  stone  bridges  across  the  many  creeks  and 
rivers  along  which  the  springs  and  torrents  of  the 
mountains  find  their  way  to  the  sea,  no  lofty  marble 
monuments  —  the  tell-tales  of  a  misty  or  glorious 
past  —  no  storied  pagodas,  but  few  temples,  and  un- 
attractive dwellings,  characterize  Formosa.  If  in 
the  main,  it  has  been  a  mere  colony  of  enterprising 
speculators,  as  undoubtedly  is  the  case,  the  enigma 
is  solved,  and  its  present  appearance  is  satisfactorily 
accounted  for.  And  this  solution  also  brings  to  light 
another  important  fact,  that  people  in  the  hoary  east 
know  the  value  of  different  climates,  of  distant  pos- 
sessions, of  colonial  commerce,  and  have  brought  this 
knowledge  into  practical  requisition,  in  advance  of 
the  people  of  the  Western  nations. 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  161 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

CHIN-KIANd.  —  KIU-KIANG.  —  HANKOW. 

THESE  three  cities  were  opened  to  foreign  trade 
under  the  British  treaty  of  1858.  but  in  conse 
quence  of  the  non-exchange  of  ratifications  the  same 
did  not  go  into  effect  till  the  spring  of  1861.  They 
are  situate  on  the  Yangtze  river,  and  are  the  only 
ports  on  that  river  where  foreigners  have  the  treaty 
right  to  dwell  and  do  business. 

Chin  Kiang  is  near  the  imperial  canal  which 
reaches  both  sides  of  the  river  at  this  point,  and  is 
about  two  hundred  miles  by  water  above  Shanghai. 
It  was  taken  possession  of  by  the  rebels  when  they 
broke  the  lines  of  the  imperial  army  around  Nankin 
in  the  spring  of  1860.  The  rebels  sacked  the  city, 
and  put  many  of  the  people  to  death.  Previously 
there  was  considerable  trade  carried  on  there,  and  its 
nearness  to  the  canal  made  it  an  important  military 


162  OBSERVATIONS    OJY 

point.  Since  the  rebels  ravaged  it,  there  has  been 
but  little  business  transacted  there.  The  entire  coun- 
try in  its  vicinity  has  also  been  overrun  by  these 
followers  of  Taeping  Wang,  and  shared  a  similar 
fate.  A  custom  house  officer  is  stationed  on  an  is- 
land near  at  hand  in  the  river,  and  all  vessels  report 
to  him  as  they  pass  up  and  down  the  river. 

Kiu  Kiang  is  some  three  hundred  miles  further 
up  the  river  on  the  south  bank,  and  is  a  town  of 
note  and  importance  Its  population  is  estimated  to 
be  over  half  a  million.  It  is  near  the  tea  and  silk 
districts  which  now  have  their  outlet  to  foreign  coun- 
tries at  this  port.  They  are  taken  to  Shanghai  where 
the  export  duties  are  paid  to  the  imperial  government, 
and  there  are  Iadened  on  vessels  that  carry  them  to 
the  marts  on  the  other  side  of  the  globe.  Kiu  Ki- 
ang is  an  old  city  with  narrow  and  dirty  streets. 
It  has  many  rich  merchants  and  opulent  gentry.  It 
is  surrounded  by  a  fertile  country,  and  has  not  yet 
suffered  any  serious  injury  from  the  civil  war.  The 
rebels  have  repeatedly  endeavored  to  take  it,  but 
without  success.  The  people  are  active  and  courage- 
ous ;  and  the  authorities,  both  civil  and  military, 
have  been  up  to  their  duty.  Cotton  goods  and  su- 
gar find  a  ready  market  there  at  reasonable  prices. 
Rice,  wheat,  and  beans,  are  raised  in  the  surround- 


CHIJVA  AJ\"D  THE  CHINESE.  163 

ing  country.  Little  if  any  is  exported,  as  it  is  all 
needed  for  home  consumption.  The  native  craft 
that  repair  to  this  port  reaches  a  large  number,  and 
it  presents  a  scene  of  activity  and  business. 

Hankow  is  at  the  head  of  legitimate  navigation  on 
the  river.  Under  the  Treaty,  foreign  merchant  ves- 
sels have  no  right  to  proceed  further  up  the  river  for 
the  purpose  of  trade.  It  is  about  eight  hundred 
miles  from  the  sea,  and  is  in  the  thirtieth  degree  of 
latitude  north,  and  one  hundred  and  fourteenth  degree 
of  longitude  east  from  Greenwich.  It  is  situate  near 
the  mouth  of  a  river  called  Hang-yang,  that  empties 
into  the  Yangtze.  Of  itself  the  town  is  not  very 
large,  but  near  by  are  the  large  cities  of  Han-yang 
and  Woo-chang.  The  latter  is  an  extensive  walled 
town,  and  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of  Hoo-pe. 
These  three  towns  are  in  sight  of  each  other,  with  the 
river  between  them ;  and  all  constitute  what  is  now 
considered  as  the  port  of  Hankow.  The  population 
of  the  port  of  Hankow,  embracing  the  three  towns, 
is  reckoned  to  exceed  five  millions  of  souls. 

The  native  trade  is  very  large,  and  this  point  is 
the  great  commercial  centre  of  the  north-western 
part  of  China.  It  is  about  six  hundred  miles  inland 
from  Canton,  and  a  business  communication  has  been 


164  OBSERVATIONS  OjY 

kept  up  constantly  for  many  ages,  between  these  two 
commercial  centres.  The  opening  of  the  great  river 
however,  to  foreign  vessels,  is  fast  changing  their 
previous  relative  positions.  Shanghai  steps  into  the 
place  of  Canton  in  this  respect,  and  now  is  fast  be- 
coming the  entrepot  of  the  merchandise  that  former- 
ly entered  and  left  central  China  at  Canton. 

With  such  a  vast  population  as  now  dwells  at 
Hankow,  there  must  necessarily  be  a  large  consump- 
tion of  production,  no  matter  from  what  quarter  it 
may  come.  The  artisans,  trades-people,  and  the 
common  laborers,  are .  almost  innumerable.  There 
is  a  numerous  class  of  gentry  who  are  reputed  to  be 
men  of  opulence,  and  gratify  their  taste  for  ease  and 
luxurious  living.  The  city  of  Woo-chang  contains 
a  great  deal  of  riches.  According  to  some  accounts, 
the  sums  are  fabulous.  The  lands  of  the  adjacent 
country  are  fertile,  and  are  industriously  cultivated. 
About  one  hundred  miles  above  Hankow  are  coal 
beds.  The  banks  of  the  river  are  high,  and  in  some 
places  the  coal  is  discernible  in  layers,  from  the  edge 
of  the  water  to  the  top  of  the  bank.  It  is  bitumi- 
nous and  of  very  good  quality.  Now  that  foreign  en- 
terprise is  reaching  this  region  of  China,  the  proba- 
bility is  that  these  coal  beds  will  feel  the  touch  of 


CHINA  AJVB  THE  CHINESE.  105 

Western  civilization.  And  it  is  quite  necessary ; 
for  there  are  already  so  many  steam  vessels  plying  on 
the  Yangtze,  with  the  prospect  of  an  immediate  in- 
crease in  the  number,  unless  coals  are  supplied  for 
their  use  nearer  China,  the  cost  of  supplying  the 
propelling  power  will  far  exceed  the  ordinary  run- 
ning expenses,  and  materially  reduce  the  profits  of 
business.  As  it  is,  most  of  the  coals  are  brought 
from  England  and  the  United  States,  and  command 
from  sixteen  to  twenty  dollars  per  ton.  The  coals 
which  have  been  used  from  the  beds  of  China  give 
satisfaction.  They  are  not  as  strong,  and  do  not 
emit  as  much  heat  as  American  or  English  coals, 
and  make  more  ashes.  As  labor  is  cheap,  the  beds 
can  be  worked  at  a  much  less  cost  in  China  than  in 
England  or  the  United  States.  The  freight  from 
the  two  last  named  countries  will  be  saved,  which 
now  amounts  to  double  the  original  cost  of  the  arti- 
cle at  home  ;  and  yet  there  are  so  many  ways  for  its 
consumption,  and  the  foreign  coals  are  so  well  liked, 
—  especially  the  American  anthracite  —  that  the 
market  for  foreign  coals  will  probably  continue  good 
in  the  north  of  China  for  many  years  to  come. 


166  OBSERVATIONS    OJY 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 

TANGCHOW. —  CIIE-FOO. —  TIENTSIN.  — THE  EMrEROR. —  NEW- 

CHWANG. 

TIIHESE  three  ports  were  opened  to  foreign  trade 
X    under  the   British  treaty  of  1858.     They   are 
called  the  Northern  ports. 

Tangchow  is  a  small  town  and  of  inconsiderable 
trade.  The  foreigners  have  not  to  any  great  extent, 
availed  themselves  of  their  treaty  rights  at  this  port. 
Instead,  they  have  gone  to  a  town  of  small  note 
called  Chee-foo,  a  port  lying  on  a  bay  of  the  same 
name.  It  is  in  the  province  of  Shan-turig,  and  some 
twenty  miles  from  Tang-chow.  The  merchants  have 
not  deemed  this  port  even  of  sufficient  importance 
to  establish  trading  houses  there.  The  trade  is 
small,  and  the  ships  do  not  approach  within  several 
miles  of  the  landing  place.  The  French  landed  a 
regiment  of  troops  there  at  the  termination  of  their 
last  war  with  China  ;  aftd  these  troops,  together  with 


CHIJYA   JV\rD    THE    CHIJYESR.  1(37 

one  or  more  men-of  war,  have  continued  at  the  port 
and   its   vicinity.      Several   missionaries,  American 
as    well    as    British    and    French,    have    removed 
thither,  and  opened  school  houses,  and  made  a  be- 
ginning of  missionary  settlements  in  that  region.     In 
the  summer  of  1861,  the  rebels  showed  themselves 
in  the   Shang-tung  provinces,  in  large  force.     They 
were     marching    upon     Tang-chow    and    Chee-foo. 
The  foreigners  became  alarmed  for  their  own   safety, 
for  the  rebels  were  plundering  and  killing  the  peo- 
ple in  great  numbers,  as  they  progressed  through  the 
country.      To   stay  their  progress,    if  possible  by 
Christian  persuasion,  two  American  missionaries  — 
the   Reverend  Messrs.  Parker  and  Holmes  —  went 
out  to  meet  them,  entirely  unattended  by  guards,  or 
other  protection  than  such  as  their  Heavenly  Father 
vouchsafed.     When  thirty  miles  out  from  Chee-foo. 
these  valiant  warriors  of  Jesus  of  Bethlehem  fell  in 
with  the  vanguard  of  the  rebels.     Fluent  in  the  lan- 
guage of  the  country,   they  managed  to  pass  along 
unharmed,  and  soon  reached  the  head  quarters  of  the 
general.     They  entered  his  tent.     They  opened  a 
conversation  with  him,  in  as  calm  and  friendlv  tone 
and  manner  as  the  feelings  of  the  hour  would  permit. 
They  sought  to  persuade  him  not  to  advance  farther 


168  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

towards  the  sea  coast.     He  insisted  upon  subduing 
the  people  to  the  very  edge  of  the  water.     They  ex- 
postulated.    He  flew  into  a  towering  passion,  and  or- 
dered his  guards  to  behead  these  missionaries.     This 
sudden  and  sanguinary  mandate  was  instantly  exe- 
cuted ;    and   their   poor   bodies,  lacerated  in  many 
parts,  were  cast  out  to  rot  unburied  and  unknown 
far,  far  away,  from  their  native  land.     Missed  by 
their  families  at  the  port,  for  too  long  an  absence, 
though  their  errand  into  the  country  was  well  known, 
an  outcry  was  raised,  and  the  entire  community,  both 
native  and  foreign,  was  soon  astir  to  get  tidings  of 
them.     In  the  course  of  a  few  days,  a  mixed  caval- 
cade of  Chinese  and  foreigners  reached  the  settlement, 
having  in  charge  the  remains  of  these  two  faithful 
deciples   of  the   cross.     They  received  a  christian 
burial  on  this   promontory  of  Shan-tung,   and  the 
ceaseless  roll  of  the  sea  against  its  shaggy   cliffs  is 
their    requiem.      Chee-foo   is   about   five   hundred 
miles,  by  water,  north  of  Shanghai.     The  land  in  its 
vicinity  is  productive.     The  large  flat  bean  is  raised 
in  large  quantities,  and  made  into  bean  cake  is  ex- 
ported to  other  provinces  for  manure  and  provender. 
Tientsin  takes  a  higher  rank  than  Chee-foo  among 
the  open  ports.     It  is  situate  in  the  province  of 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  169 

Pe-che-le,  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Peiho  river 
thirty  miles  by  the  winding  of  the  river,  from  its 
mouth,  but  not  over  twenty  miles  in  a  straight  line. 
It  is  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  river  for  vessels 
from  sea,  and  it  is  the  seaport  of  Pekin.  In  conse- 
quence it  is  regarded  as  an  important  place  by  the 
Chinese,  and  is  widely  known  throughout  the  empire. 
It  is  seventy  miles  in  a  south-easternly  direction 
from  the  imperial  capital,  and  is  the  entrepot  of  salt 
for  northern  China.  Small  boats  ply  on  the  creeks 
that  intersect  each  other  between  it  and  Pekin.  The 
latter  place  is  supplied  with  rice  from  the  south 
through  this  port.  The  town  is  pleasantly  located 
upon  the  river,  has  many  fine  Chinese  temples  and 
other  public  buildings,  and  its  population  is  said  to 
exceed  one  hundred  thousand.  It  has  many  wealthy 
inhabitants.  Several  are  estimated  to  be  worth  ris- 
ing  of  one  million  of  taels.  The  people  throughout 
the  province  are  in  the  main  said  to  be  forehanded. 
It  is  believed  that  the  wealthiest  man  in  all  China  re- 
sides in  this  province.  His  riches  are  calculated  at 
over  thirty  five-millions  of  taels.  The  estates  of 
many  others  are  put  at  three,  four,  and  five  millions. 
As  by  law  the  property  of  the  parents  descends  to 

the  eldest  male  child,  and  in  default  of  issue  to  the 

8 


170  OBSERVATIONS  OJ\r 

nearest  kin,  it  is  not  incredible  that  big  estates  should 
accumulate  tli rough  a  long  line  of  provident  ances- 
try. 

On  account  of  its  contiguity  to  the  seat  of  the 
general  government,  the  people  of  Tientsin  speak  the 
court  language —  called  Mandarin — more  than  is 
usual  among  the  common  classes  in  other  provinces. 
They  are  a  quiet,  loyal,  and  money-making  people. 
The  climate  is  healthy.  The  weather  is  cold  in  the 
winter  months,  as  it  is  as  far  north  as  the  thirty- 
ninth  degree  of  north  latitude.  In  the  summer 
months  there  is  much  heat,  and  the  thermometer  rises 
sometimes  to  the  ninety- sixth  degree  of  Fahrenheit. 
The  people  are  fond  of  traffic,  and  are  reputed  to  be 
faithful  to  their  engagements.  They  import  large 
quantities  of  grain,  woolens  and  furs.  Opium  also 
finds  a  ready  market  here,  and  several  hundred  chests 
are  annually  disposed  of  at  remunerative  prices. 
The  river  is  easily  navigated  by  sailing  vessels  of 
light  draught,  the  channel  across  the  bar  at  the  mouth 
being  the  most  difficult  and  dangerous.  Small  sized 
steam  craft  also  go  up  and  down  without  difficulty. 
The  only  drawback  to  trade  at  this  port  is  "the 
freezing  up  "  in  winter.  The  river  is  covered  with 
solid  ice  as  early  as  December,  and  is  not  free  from 
it  till  March.     This  is  an  interruption  to  commer- 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  171 

cial  pursuits  seaward,  that  does  not  occur  at  the 
southern  ports.  Snow  falls  soon  after  the  ice  makes, 
and  often  to  the  depth  of  four  or  five  feet. 

Tientsin,  so  far  as  the  foreign  trade  is  concerned, 
is  regarded  as  the  most  important  of  the  northern 
ports.  Through  it,  the  merchants  reach  the  fertile 
lands  and  inviting  commerce  of  northern  China. 
Previous  to  the  negotiation  of  the  last  treaties,  this 
part  of  the  empire  was  wholly  inaccessible  to  the 
people  of  other  nations,  unless  they  perchance  wan- 
dered there  in  contravention  of  public  engagements. 
Now  they  can  penetrate  into  the  interior,  mingle  free- 
ly with  the  Chinese,  and  sell  and  buy  merchandise 
face  to  face  without  the  entanglement  of  dilatory  and 
circumlocutory  middle  men.  The  trade  will  enhance 
under  such  auspices  ;  and  apace,  as  it  enhances,  with 
proper  prudence  will  grow  the  desire  of  the  native 
dealer  to  come  in  closer  contact  with  the  foreigner  in 
all  the  manifold  transactions  of  commerce.  And 
what  is  of  greater  moment,  so  far  as  the  opening  of 
this  port  is  concerned,  is  its  nearness  to  Pekin.  Fa- 
cilities are  provided  for  the  just  and  speedy  settlement 
of  all  vexatious  disputes  that  unavoidably  arise  from 
time  to  time,  in  the  multiplicity  of  active  commer- 
cial pursuits.  A  more  equal  and  humane  temper 
will  thus  be  created  and  preserved  between  the  sev- 


^72  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

eral  nationalities,  and  lead  to  wider  and  more  inex- 
haustible  fields  of  commercial  enterprise  and  pros- 
perity 

The    Peiho    river    has   become    world    renowned. 
The  military  events  that  have  occurred  upon  its  banks 
make  it  classic  ground.     It  was  the  mud  forts  at  Ta- 
li u    which    called    forth    the    demonstrations  of  the 
British  admiral  in  June  1858.     The   same  fortifica- 
tions repaired  and  more  strongly  manned,  again  sum- 
moned   the     united    powers    of   Great  Britain    and 
France,    in    June    1859.     In    August    I860,  they 
again  gallantly  replied  to  the  thundering  and  dam- 
aging  salutations   of  the  allied  forces  both  by  land 
and  sea.     Twice  had  they  virtually  triumphed  over 
their  valiant  and  unsatisfied  assailants.     Once  by  the 
wily  and  easy  diplomacy  of  asking  nothing  and  prom- 
ishing  every  thing  asked  for,  and  once  by  positive  and 
inexorable  force.     Now,  the  celestial   Emperor  had 
called  from  Tartary  his  best  lancers  and  most  trusty 
warriors.     lie  had    gathered   from  far   and  near,  a 
mighty  host,  and  it  moved  to  the  deadly  conflict  under 
a  forest  of  banners.     The  faithful  matchlock  and  the 
potent  gingall  were  in  active  requisition,  and  thous- 
ands of  fighting  men  laid  down  their  lives.     But  all 
to  no  j  urpose.     The  forts  could  not  withstand  the 
shock,  and  tear,  and  carnage,  of  the  grape,  and  can- 


CHIjYA   and    THE   CHINESE.  173 

ister,  and  iron  balls,  which  the  allied  batteries  for 
hours  incessantly  poured  into  them.     They  surrend- 
ered ;  and  diplomacy  commenced  at  the  point  where 
powder  left  off.     Cessation  of  open  hostilities  ensued 
for  a  brief  season,  during  which  time  the  land  forces 
of  the  allies    advanced  up  the   Peiho  to  Tientsin. 
Simultaneously,    the    imperial    legions    retired    still 
farther  beyond,  and  massed  themselves  for  another 
bout  midway  to  the  Celestial  city.     They  were  un- 
der  the    lead  of   Sang-ko-lin-sem,   and  the  Prince 
of  I.      When  the  imperial  army  was  in  readiness  to 
receive  again  the  fire  of  the  enemy,  the  negotiations 
of  peace  ceased,  and  the  chariot  wheels  of  war  were 
again  put  in  motion.     This  time  they  did  not  stop 
till  the  summer  palace  of  his  imperial  majesty  had 
been  thoroughly  sacked,  and  every  track  and  trace 
of  it  had  perished'  in  flame.     Then  diplomacy   re- 
sumed its  wonted  task,  the  terms  of  pacification  were 
settled  and  sealed,  and  peace  inaugurated.     In  the 
mean  time,  the  Emperor  had   taken  the   alarm  for 
his  personal  safety,  and  escaped  to  his  beloved  Zehol 
in  the  impregnable  wilds  of  Tartary.     Prince  Kung 
was  his  representative  at  the  capital,  amicably  and 
satisfactorily  arranged  the  demands   of  the  enemy 
and  met  the  British  and  French  ambassadors  in  the 
great  hall  of  reception.     His  subsequent  administra- 


174  OBSERVATl QJVS    OjY 

tion  of  national  affairs  evinces  his  inflexible  deter- 
mination to  stand  fast  to  the  treaty  stipulations,  and 
carry  them  out  in  good  faith.  The  absconding  Em- 
peror never  returned  to  Pekin  —  he  sickened  and 
wasted  away  under  his  excessive  debauchery,  and 
finally  died  at  Zehol  in  August  1861,  in  the  thirtieth 
year  of  his  age.  He  left  a  son  in  his  twelfth  year, 
who  assumed  the  sovereign  power  immediately  upon 
the  decease  of  his  father.  The  young  Emperor  has 
the  advice  of  a  counsel  of  regency  till  he  attains  his 
majority.  His  mother  however,  guides  in  fact  the 
vermillion  pencil.  She  is  a  woman  of  masculine 
will,  and  evidences  great  knowledge  and  tact  in  the 
administration  of  public  affairs.  A  portion  of  the 
high  officers  of  state  at  the  decease  of  the  late  Em- 
peror  were  opposed  to  the  new  treaties;  and,  as 
opportunity  offered,  threw  stumbling  blocks  in 
the  way  of  those  of  the  high  officers,  who  were 
endeavoring  to  comply  with  the  new  stipulations. 
Prince  Kung  withstood  this  opposition  as  long  as  his 
patience  would  enable  him  to  do  so,  and  when  this 
cjn^ed  to  be  a  virtue  he  quietly  repaired  to  Zehol, 
where  the  young  Emperor  and  his  august  mother 
were  sojourning.  He  represented  the  situation  of 
the  Imperial  court  to  the  Emperor,  and  returned  to 
Pekin.     He  carried  back  a  decree  which  called  for 


% 

CHIJVA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  175 

the  instant  death  of  the  refractory  ministers.  He 
had  no  sooner  reached  the  capital  than  each  of  these 
ministers  without  the  knowledge  of  the  other,  at  the- 
hour  of  midnight,  were  arrested.  The  decree  was 
executed  to  the  profound  astonishment  of  the  residue 
of  the  imperial  court. 

New-chwang  lies  in  a  north-easterly  direction  from 
Teintsin.  and  distant  therefrom  about  three  hundred 
miles.  It  is  in  the  most  northern  province.  The 
town  is  situate  upon  a  river  some  twenty-five  miles 
from  the  sea,  and  is  reputed  to  have  a  population  of 
over  one  hundred  thousand.  The  country  in  that 
region  of  China  is  productive.  Wheat,  maize,  and 
beans,  are  raised  in  sufficient  quantities  to  supply 
the  home  demand.  Apples  and  pears  are  grown  there 
similar  to  those  in  the  United  States,  but  not  of  as 
good  quality.  The  apples  rot  very  quick  after  they 
are  gathered  in  the  autumn.  The  pears  are  hard  and 
unpalatable  to  an  American,  who  has  been  accus- 
tomed to  eat  a  fruit  of  that  name  in  his  own  country. 
The  Chinese,  however,  eat  them  with  great  gusto,  un- 
cooked and  baked.  They  raise  more  than  enough 
for  their  own  supply,  and  send  thousands  of  piculs 
to  the  more  southern  ports.  The  climate  is  cold. 
The  winter  weather  is  severe.  They  have  heavy 
snow  storms  with  violent  winds,  and  the  snow  some- 


176  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

times  falls  to  a  great  depth.  These  storms  extend 
far  out  to  sea,  and  render  the  navigation  of  these 
waters  in  winter  difficult  and  hazardous.  An  Amer- 
ican ship  was  wrecked  in  the  winter  of  1862  near  the 
entrance  to  the  river,  and  became  a  total  loss.  The 
weather  was  too  hazy  to  see  how  to  steer  the  ship,  and 
it  took  the  ground.  Unable  to  get  timely  assistance, 
the  vessel  broke  up  and  went  to  pieces. 

The  people  are  stout,  hardy,  and  courageous. 
Their  demeanor  towards  foreigners  is  of  a  more  in- 
dependent cast  than  is  usual  at  the  other  open  ports. 
This  may  be  accounted  for  upon  the  hypothesis,  that 
their  locality  has  not  yet  been  the  theatre  of  foreign 
hostilities  ;  and  they  have  not  yet  lived  sufficiently 
long,  side  by  side  with  foreigners,  to  appreciate  the 
inequality  of  the  two  races.  They  act  as  if  they 
had  a  country  and  government  of  their  own,  and 
were  actually  at  home.  They  have  not  yet  come  to 
regard  the  foreigner  as  a  permanent  settler,  or  the 
foreign  trade  as  a  permanent  institution  in  their  king- 
dom. But  they  consider  him  and  it  as  merely  tem- 
porary, and  suppose  that  people  come  to  that  coun- 
try from  afar  because  it  is  a  better  country.  It  is  a 
common  occurrence  for  them  to  inquire,  why  people 
leave  their  own  country  and  travel  so  far,  if  it  is 


CHINA    AND    THE    CHINESE.  177 

equally  good.  When  they  shall  have  learned  the 
value  of  an  extended  commerce,  and  the  benefits 
that  nations  derive  from  the  interchange  of  their 
productions,  they  will  cease  to  put  the  question.  As 
it  is,  the  traders  of  New-chwang  are  too  haughty 
and  reserved  in  their  dealings  with  foreigners.  Self- 
interest  will  probably  soon  overcome  this,  and  the 
gunboats  and  frigates  will  show  them  their  littleness 
and  inequality  when  weighed  in  the  scale  of  civilized 
nations. 

Traveling  in  the  interior  near  New-chwang,  and 
between  there  and  Tientsin  overland,  is  not  deemed 
very  safe.  The  roads  are  infested  with  highway 
robbers.  They  do  not  appear  to  know,  or  if  they 
do  know  to  care,  about  the  treaty  stipulations-.  Like 
the  bandits  of  other  countries,  they  enforce  the  in- 
junction of  "  stand  and  deliver,"  and  recognize  no 
passport  system  that  over-rides  this  favorite  law  of 
the  road.  Their  organizations  are  said  to  be  too 
strong  for  the  Mandarins  to  suppress.  They  have 
existed  from  time  immemorial,  and  overmatch  all 
the  efforts  of  the  government  to  put  an  end  to  their 
calling.  The  natives  are  loud  in  their  complaints 
against  this  illegal  tyranny,  and  in  consequence  go 

in  squads    when    they  travel  through  the  country. 

8* 


178  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

It  has  been  surmised,  and  the  surmise  has  ripened 
into  belief  in  some  quarters,  that  the  mandarins, 
like  officials  in  some  other  countries,  are  in  complici- 
ty with  these  highway  extortioners  and  plunderers. 
If  such  is  the  fact,  it  is  simply  another  mode  of 
carrying  out  their  system  of  ';  squeezing  "  from  the 
loyal  subjects,  the  gains  of  an  honest  and  thrifty 
livelihood. 

Wood,  woolens  and  furs  are  scarce,  and  needed  in 
this  cold  climate.  To  make  the  fuel  go  as  far  as 
possible,  it  is  customary  to  construct  wide  and  flat 
brick  ovens  six  to  eight  feet  in  length  for  cooking 
and  other  purposes,  and  in  cold  weather  spread  out 
the  bedding  upon  the  top,  and  sleep  there.  The 
warmth  of  the  oven  makes  a  warm  and  comfortable 
couch.  It  is  not  uncommon  for  a  dozen  persons  to 
occupy  the  top  of  the  oven  at  the  same  time  —  men 
women  and  children.  The  farmers  raise  sheep,  and 
frequently  have  large  flocks.  The  wool  is  long  and 
coarse.  It  makes  warm  clothing.  The  skin  is 
usually  cured  with  the  wool  on,  and  in  that  condi- 
tion made  into  a  garment,  and  used  by  all  classes  in 
the  extreme  cold  weather.  The  mutton  is  better 
than  is  produced  in  England,  Spain,  or  Saxony. 
It  is  tender,  juicy,  and  fat ;  and  there  is  no  taste  or 
smell  of  the  sheep,  when  cooked  and  served   upon 


CHIJYA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  179 

the  table.  The  gentry,  merchants,  and  farmers,  are 
good  livers ;  and  the  same  observation  applies  with 
equal  truth,  to  most  of  all  the  other  classes  of  this 
community. 

The  currency  before  the  port  was  opened,  consist- 
ed mostly  of  the  copper  cash  c6ined  at  the  imperial 
mints.  Their  commercial  dealings  brought  them 
but  little  silver.  Much  of  their  trade  was  with  the 
Russians  from  the  Amoor  river  and  Siberia.  Furs 
and  tallow  were  the  principal  articles  which  they 
got  in  exchange  for  their  commodities.  Rarely  did 
they  get  sycee  from  any  quarter.  And  when  they 
did  get  any,  it  generally  came  from  their  own  coun- 
trymen at  the  south.  Since  the  port  was  opened  to 
the  foreign  trade,  barter  takes  a  different  direction, 
and  is  of  a  different  character.  Now,  these  north- 
ern traders  get  dollars  in  settlement  of  balances,  as 
well  as  the  much  coveted  lumps  of  sycee.  One  sat- 
isfactory transaction  of  barter  with  the  foreigner, 
stimulates  them  to  engage  in  transactions  of  bigger 
magnitude;  and  thus  their  hitherto  unknown  com- 
merce goes  forth  to  mingle  with  that  of  other  coun- 
tries, in  the  emporiums  of  the  globe. 


180  OBSERVATIONS    OjY 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


THE  COAST. — PIRATES. CHUSAN. 


THE  coast  of  China  is  better  known  than  the  inte- 
rior. It  extends  through  thirty  degrees  of  lat- 
itude. It  is  of  irregular  outline,  bold  and  rocky. 
There  are  not  many  large  gulfs,  or  long  arras  of  the 
sea.  The  gulf  of  Pee-chee-lee,  into  which  the  Pei- 
ho  river  empties,  is  the  largest.  From  the  southern 
line  to  the  neighborhood  of  Canton,  the  coast  lies  low, 
and  is  approached  from  the  interior  over  gravelly 
and  sandy  flats.  In  some  places  near  the  mouths 
of  creeks  and  rivers,  the  soil  is  alluvial.  From  Can- 
ton to  the  Yangtze  river,  it  is  full  of  indentations,  and 
lined  with  large  and  small  islands.  Among  these 
many  islands  there  are  numerous  bays  and  coves. 
They  afford  shelter  to  the  thousands  of  small  vessels 
that  are  constantly  afloat.  The  fishing  smacks  are 
really  innumerable.  All  the  way  from  Hong  Kong 
to  Shanghai,  the  eye  never  fails  to  catch  a  glimpse 
of  some  of  them.     Many  a  wayfarer  has  counted  a 


CHINA   AND    THE    CHINESE.  181 

thousand  in  sight,  day  after  day.  They  are  usually 
manned  with  eight  to  ten  persons,  and  often  more. 
Whilst  a  portion  are  managing  the  little  vessels,  oth- 
ers are  trolling  the  line,  and  throwing,  and  watch- 
ing, and  drawing  in  the  net.  The  hauls  of  fish  are 
often  by  the  bushels.  They  catch  perch,  pickerel, 
bass,  shad,  eels,  and  a  fish  called  pike  in  some  parts 
of  the  United  States.  At  the  north  in  the  vicinity 
of  New-chwang,  there  is  much  successful  fishing  for 
cod  and  salmon.  The  fish  are  salted,  or  dried  and 
smoked,  when  got  ashore,  and  sent  off  to  the  large 
inland  cities,  where  they  find  a  never  failing  market. 
This  business  is  the  occupation  of  tens  of  thousands 
of  Chinese. 

From  the  Yangtze  to  the  bay  of  Chee-foo,  the 
coast  is  approached  from  the  high  hills  and  moun- 
tains far  back  in  the  country,  by  gentle  declivities. 
The  beach  is  sandy,  and  the  tide  at  many  points 
sweeps  over  very  wide  swales.  Oftentimes,  vessels 
venturing  too  near  in  shore  are  left  by  the  ebbing 
waters  aground  on  these  ugly  swales,  miles  away  from 
the  deep  sea.  The  only  chance  of  escape  from  destruc- 
tion, is  to  keep  a  good  watch  on  the  lookout  for  the  land 
and  water  thieves  who  are  apt  to  infest  these  swales, 
and  await  the  returning  tide.     From  Chee-foo  north- 


182  OBSERVATIONS  ON 

ward,  the  outline  is  more  undulating  with  rock  and 
swale. 

Many  stories  are  recounted  of  personal  adven- 
ture along  these  coasts.  There  is  scarcely  an  islet 
or  a  headland,  that  tradition  does  not  connect  with 
some  wonderful  event.  They  have  been  traversed 
for  centuries  by  daring  and  reckless  spirits.  The 
peaceable  merchantman  has  always  essayed  to  reach 
the  laudable  profits  of  the  carrying  trade,  and  the 
shrewd  dealers  in  merchandise  have  vied  with  each 
other  to  share,  if  not  to  monopolize  the  business. 

Lawless  rovers  of  the  sea  have  made  the  naviga- 
tion very  hazardous,  from  the  time  when  the  memo- 
ry of  man  runneth  not  to  the  contrary,  and  continue 
their  piratical  work  to  the  present  day.  No  year 
passes  without  chronicling  the  destruction  of  many 
junks,  and  the  seizure  of  many  valuable  cargoes. 
If  perchance  men  of  fortune  or  position  are  found 
upon  the  vessel,  their  friends  in  some  circuitous  way 
are  advised  where  they  can  be  seen,  and  they  are 
held  in  close  confinement  till  the  designated  ransom 
is  paid.  To  add  to  this  enormity,  the  pirates  name 
the  time  when  the  grace  of  ransom  will  terminate. 
It  often  happens  that  the  sum  is  too  high  for  the 
friends  of  the  prisoner  to  raise,  and  he  forfeits  his 
head.     Oftentimes  the  pirates  condescend  to  release 


CHIJVA  AJYD  THE  CHINESE.  183 

the  cargo  upon  being  paid  a  satisfactory  amount  of 
money  in  commutation.  This  line  of  conduct  shows 
the  weakness  of  the  government  in  affording  proper 
protection  to  the  people.  Indeed,  it  is  so  peculiar  and 
different  from  every  other  government  that  is  sup- 
plied with  a  moiety  of  as  much  machinery  of  state 
to  enforce  obedience  to  law,  that,  many  are  so  un- 
charitable as  to  charge  the  mandarins  to  be  in  col- 
lusion with  the  pirates.  It  is  uncommon,  however, 
to  molest  foreign  vessels,  though  not  because  they 
are  foreign,  but  from  the  pirate's  fear  of  being  over- 
come. The  coves  and  bays  among  the  numerous 
groups  of  islands,  afford  eligible  harbors  of  refuge 
for  the  outlaws,  and  make  it  difficult  for  the  war 
junks  and  gun  boats  that  go  in  search  to  find  them. 
They  are  too  apt  to  escape  the  vigilance  of  this  po- 
lice of  the  sea  and  thus  ply  their  vocation  with  im- 
punity. Their  usual  haunts,  however,  are  now  be- 
coming so  well  known,  that  they  do  not  of  late  get 
off  so  easily.  Several  of  their  nests,  under  the 
shade  of  projecting  cliffs  and  tortuous  estuaries  that 
meander  among  the  numerous  islets,  are  broken  up, 
many  have  been  recaptured,  and  themselves  brought 
to  punishment. 

It  has  been  estimated  by  Chinese  speculators  upon 
this  subject,  that  the  value  of  these  depredations, 


184  OBSERVATIONS    ON 

on  an  average  from  year  to  year,  exceed  five  mil- 
lions of  taels, —  an  enormous  tribute  to  be  levied 
upon  a  legitimate  and  peaceful  commerce  ! 

It  is  delightful  for  the  traveler  to  pass  along  the 
sea  coast,  when  in  a  vessel  that  is  deemed  safe  from 
piratical  intrusion.  The  dash  and  wash  of  the  wa- 
ter has  made  all  sorts  of  images  out  of  the  rocks ; 
and  carved  and  smoothed  them  with  all  the  artistical 
skill  of  the  sculptor.  The  broad  and  high  hills  often 
rise  to  the  elevation  of  mountains,  and  generally 
are  tillable  to  their  very  summits.  Mounds  that 
enclose  the  remains  of  patriarchs  and  their  descend- 
ants of  ancient  times,  and  monuments  of  marble 
in  the  forms  of  beasts  and  birds  in  memory  of 
some  distinguished  man  or  event  of  centuries  ago, 
relieve  the  monotony  of  luxuriant  fields  and  barren 
headlands.  Perhaps  there  may  not  be  seen  any- 
where in  the  wide  world,  more  beautiful  or  inspiring 
scenery  than  in  the  Chusan  archipelago.  This  sea 
of  isles  is  off  the  coast  of  Che-kiang,  between  Ning- 
po  and  Shanghai. 

The  archipelago  may  be  considered  about  twelve 
miles  in  length  from  west  to  east.  It  has  not  a  uni- 
formity of  breadth  from  north  to  south.  It  ranges 
from  six  to  thirty  miles.  The  line  of  circumference 
probably,  would  reach  over  one  hundred  miles.     The 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  185 

principal  of  these  islands  is  called  Chusan,  and  from 
it  the  whole  group  takes  the  name  bj  which  they  are 
generally  known.  They  are  interspersed  with  lofty 
hills  that  rise  to  a  great  height,  and  some  to  the 
height  of  one  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  There  are  many  that  ascend  six  hundred  feet. 
Beautiful  and  fertile  valleys  nestle  at  their  base, 
and  are  thickly  populated.  The  sides  of  the  hills 
are  under  close  cultivation.  Rice  is  often  planted 
on  artificial  terraces  rising  one  above  the  other, 
across  the  declivities.  The  water-courses  from  above 
are  diverted  into  those  terraces,  sufficient  moisture  is 
thus  obtained  for  the  nourishment  of  the  plant,  and 
large  crops  reward  the  toil  of  the  farmer.  There  is 
a  town  of  considerable  size,  situate  at  the  southern 
extremity  of  Chusan,  called  Ting-hai.  This  is  the 
mart  of  the  people  on  that  island,  and  is  under  the 
immediate  rule  of  a  small  button  mandarin.  The 
general  reputation  of  this  island,  however,  is  not  en- 
viable, as  it  has  attained  the  notoriety  of  harboring 
pirates  ;  and  is  known  and  spoken  of  in  that  connec- 
tion far  and  near.  It  is  also  regarded  as  the  stop- 
ping place  of  smugglers  and  runaways  from  justice. 
It  has  been  said  that  many  of  the  native  vessels  which 
trade  from  Ningpo  to  Shanghai,  pay  tribute  to  these 


186  OBSERVATIONS  0J\" 

mercenaries  to  be  allowed  to  navigate  the  archipelago 
in  peace.  However  it  may  be,  there  are  others  who 
do  not  succumb  to  such  a  species  of  piracy ;  and  the 
result  is  that  they  are  molested  when  a  favorable  op- 
portunity offers,  and  the  marauders  are  occasionally 
caught  and  get  their  just  deserts. 


CHINA   AND    THE    CHINESE.  187 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 


PUNISHMENTS. YEH. HO. 


I^HE  criminal  jurisprudence  of  China  differs  from 
.  other  countries  of  modern  organization.  Pun- 
ishment is  inflicted  to  prevent  crime,  it  is  true,  but 
the  mode  of  infliction  is  widely  different  from  that  in 
vosue  in  Christian  states.  It  is  divided  into  three 
classes,  namely,  death,  chastisement,  and  restraint 
of  personal  liberty.  The  punishment  of  death  con- 
sists of  beheading  and  disembowelment.  The  first 
is  dealt  in  this  manner.  The  victim  is  led  to  the 
field  of  blood,  thrown  lengthwise  upon  the  ground, 
lying  upon  his  back  with  the  face  uppermost,  the  feet- 
are  tied  together  and  the  hands  the  same,  two  police- 
men stand  at  either  extremity  of  the  victim,  whilst 
the  chief  executioner  chops  off  the  head  with  a  broad 

* 

and  thin  bladed  axe.     The  blow  descends  upon   the 
throat,  and  rarely  does  one  blow  effect  the  purpose. 


188  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

More  frequently  it  is  repeated  several  times  before 
the  head  is  wholly  severed  from  the  trunk.  The 
head  is  then  exposed  to  the  view  of  the  public,  for 
several  days,  from  the  walls  of  the  city.  Some- 
times, it  is  exposed  to  the  public  on  bridges,  espec- 
ially those  that  span  much  frequented  thoroughfares. 
Disembowelment  is  performed  in  this  wise.  The 
victim  is  led  to  the  usual  field  of  execution,  denud- 
ed, stretched  upon  the  ground  with  the  face  upper- 
most, hands  and  feet  bound  tightly  together,  two 
policemen  at  either  extremity.  The  chief  execution- 
er is  supplied  with  a  straight  sharp  knife,  well  whet- 
ted for  the  occasion.  With  this  instrument  he  make3 
a  deep  incision  into  the  front  of  the  body,  from  the 
neck  to  the  abdomen.  Then  with  the  naked  hand 
he  tears  out  the  heart,  which,  like  the  head  in  the 
former  case,  is  exposed  to  the  view  of  the  public. 
If  the  executioner  goes  beyond  this,  and  commits 
those  acts  of  barbarity  that  are  occasionly  depicted 
by  some  bystander,  he  exceeds  his  duty,  and  is  li- 
able to  punishment ;  and  if  he  was  in  a  country 
where  strict  official  accountability  is  enforced,  he 
would  be  summoned  to  his  reckoning.  The  word 
disembowelment  as  used  in  the  English  sense,  does 
not  express  the  true  meaning  of  the  Chinese  in  this 


CHIJVA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  189 

connection.  They  consider  the  heart  the  seat  of  all 
the  virtues  and  vices  of  good  and  evil,  and  the  life 
of  the  soul.  With  the  decease  of  the  body,  they  be- 
lieve the  soul  transmigrates  if  left  undisturbed ; 
and  when  the  heart  is  violently  thrust  out  of  the 
body,  the  purpose  is  to  annihilate  the  soul  for  all 
time  to  come,  and  forever  withdraw  from  it  the  ely- 
sium  of  immortality. 

Whoever  designedly  sheds  another's  blood,  incurs 
the  death  penalty,  and  whether  disembowelment  shall 
be  added  depends  upon  the  atrocity  of  the  crime. 
Whoever  violently  breaks  into  another's  compound, 
and  steals  therefrom,  incurs  the  death  penalty,  and 
whoever  plots  against  the  life  of  the  State  must  for- 
feit his  life. 

Chastisement  is  inflicted  for  disobedience  of  law. 
According  to  Chinese  theory,  the  Emperor  is  to  rule 
and  govern,  as  a  father  would  rule  and  govern  his 
family.  It  is  his  right  and  duty  to  visit  his  people 
with  stripes,  as  his  will  may  dictate  ;  and  this  mode 
of  punishment  is  resorted  to  daily  in  the  courts  of 
the  land.  It  usually  consists  of  ten  to  thirty  blows 
with  a  small  stick  of  bamboo.  These  blows  are  in- 
flicted upon  the  palms  of  the  hands,  the  soles  of  the 
feet,  and  the  naked  back,  indiscriminately,  accord- 


190  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

ing  to  the  caprice  of  the  magistrate.     If  a  China- 
man is  charged  with  any  delinquency,  and  when  ar- 
raigned to  answer  for  it  denies  it,  he  is   usually  vis- 
ited with  stripes.     If  he  is  obdurate,  he  is  remanded 
to  his  place  of  confinement.     After  a  short  interval 
of  time   ha9  elapsed,   he  is  again    led   into    court. 
If  he  still  persists  in  his  innocence," he  is  re-visited 
with  stripes.     By  and  by,  the  magistrate  again  calls 
for  him.     If  he  still  pleads  not  guilty,  and  cannot 
prove   his  innocence,  and  has  not  rich  friends  at  his 
elbow,  he  is  again  flogged  and  remanded  to  prison. 
Some  instances  are  known,  of  persons  thus  whipped 
and  re-whipped,  remaining  in  confinement  till  they 
die.     If  they  convince  the  magistrate  of  their  in- 
nocence, then  the  complainant  is  flogged  instead,  un- 
less he  buys  himself  off.     If  the  delinquency  is  ad- 
mitted, the  prisoner  receives  the  stripes  and  goes  his 
way.     Flogging  is  administered  for  such  offences  as 
in  Christian  countries  would  be  visited  with  fine,  or  a 
few  days  imprisonment  in  some  house  of  correction. 
If  one  owes  a  debt  and  does  not  pay  it  at  maturity, 
or  when  called  upon  after  maturity,  instead  of  being 
sent  to  jail  as  in  some  countries,  and  there  kept  till 
the  debtor  pays  the  debt  or  4'  swears  out,"  the  Chi- 
nese debtor  is  flogged  and  admonished  to  keep  his 
word  in  the  future. 


CHINA  AJYD  THE  CHLVESE.  191 

Imprisonment  as  a  punishment  is  not  practised  in 
China.  There  are  no  sentences  for  a  specific  time 
of  confinement.  Restraint  of  personal  liberty  in 
most  instances  is  merely  used  as  auxiliary  to  the  dis- 
covery of  truth.  There  are  no  penitentiaries  for  the 
punishment  of  offenders,  as  in  Christain  communities. 
The  prison  houses  for  the  confinement  of  persons 
charged  with  the  commission  of  offences  are  loosely 
constructed,  and  too  weak  to  resist  the  machinations 
of  expert  rogues.  They  are  kept  in  a  slovenly  con- 
dition—  too  much  so  for  a  foreigner  to  remain  in 
them  for  any  great  length  of  time  and  retain  health, 
or  even  life.  To  guard  against  the  escape  of  prison- 
ers, they  are  securely  bound,  and  at  all  times  are  un- 
der the  close  surveillance  of  a  guard.  It  is  a  rare 
occurrence  for  an  inmate  to  escape  from  his  confine- 
ment, or  to  elude  the  vigilance  of  his  keeper.  Hor- 
rid accounts  are  given  of  transactions  that  sometimes 
occur  within  the  gates.  They  appear  to  be  too  in- 
credible for  belief.  The  foreigners  of  treaty  nations 
are  exempt  from  being  cast  into  them.  The  rights 
of  exterritoriality  removes  them  from  the  jurisdiction 
of  the  Chinese  authorities.  They  are  subordinate 
only  to  their  own. 

Chinese  convicted  of  kidnapping,  of  violating  the 


192  OBSERVATIONS    0„V 

police  regulations,  or  of  committing  some  wanton  act 
of  trespass,  are  oftentimes  sentenced  to  stand  or  sit 
or  lie  in  the  same  posture  for  a  given  period  of  time. 
They  are  sometimes  put  into  the  stocks,  or  carried 
about  in  cages,  or  fastened  into  a  machine  called  the 
Cangue  —  an  instrument  of  punishment  peculiar   to 
China.     When  used,  it  is  in  an   upright  position. 
There  are  holes  for  the  legs  and  head  of  the  victim, 
who  is  required  to  occupy  it  a  given   number  of 
hours  for  a  given  number  of  days,  in  some  public 
place,  and  often  exposed  to  the  rays  of  a  hot  sun,  and 
the  jeers  of  the  populace  who  pass  by.     This  con- 
finement occasions  severe  pain.     It  is  said  that  deaths 
have  occurred  in  the  Cangue,  from  sheer  exhaustion. 
The  duration  of  each  day's  confinement  usually  ex- 
tends through  six  hours.     When  it  takes  place  in  the 
summer  months,  the  wonder  is  that  all  its  sufferers 
do  not  die.     The  Chinese  are  distinguished  for  their 
stoicism,  but  in  no  instances  do  they  exhibit  this  pe- 
culiar trait  of  character  to  a  greater  extent  than 
when  undergoing  the  pains  of  the  Cangue.     If  a 
single  sitting  terminated  the  punishment,  one  might 
imagine  how  the  convict  could  muster  enough  forti- 
tude to  appear  to  treat  it  with  apathy.     But,  the 
repetition  day  after  day  for  one  or  more  months 


CHIJVA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  193 

without  eliciting  a  single  sigh  or  painful  emotion 
from  the  sufferer,  exhibits  a  power  of  self-control 
difficult  to  comprehend,  and  more  difficult  to  credit 
if  it  had  not  been  often  seen. 

Perhaps,  this  trait  attains  an  equal  degree  of 
amazement  in  cases  of  suicide.  Especially,  when 
the  Board  of  Censors  at  Pekin  complains  to  the 
Emperor  of  the  official  delinquency  of  some  big  but- 
ton mandarin.  In  such  cases  the  mandarin  receives 
from  the  Emperor  an  order,  signed  with  the  Vermil- 
lion pencil,  to  repair  to  his  presence.  If  upon  exam- 
ination the  delinquency  is  not  satisfactorily  explained, 
the  penalty  being  death,  the  Emperor  allows  the  man- 
darin "  benefit  of  clergy,"  by  intimating  to  him  the 
necessity  of  repairing  to  the  temple.  This  intimation 
of  itself  advises  the  culprit  of  the  adverse  decision 
of  the  Emperor,  and  that  he  must  lose  his  head. 
Now  if  his  head  is  cut  off  by  the  public  executioner, 
his  property  is  confiscated  to  the  State,  and  his  blood 
is  attainted  even  to  the  third  and  fourth  generations. 
To  prevent  this,  he  cuts  off  his  own  head,  or  in  other 
words  takes  his  own  life,  without  delay. 

The  mandarin  does  not  exhibit  the  same  alacrity 
in  complying  with  the  summons  to  come  to  the  Em- 
peror, unless  he  is  well  satisfied  that  he  shall  return 


194  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

from  the  ordeal  unhurt.  On  the  contrary,  he  avails 
himself  of  every  procrastination,  in  the  meantime 
bringing  into  his  interest  at  the  foot  of  the  throne, 
all  the  back  stairs  influence  that  his  official  position 
and  pecuniary  resources  can  reach.  It  is  said  that 
Yeh,  the  former  Governor  General  and  commissioner 
for  foreign  affairs  at  Canton,  on  more  than  one  occa- 
sion was  the  recipient  of  this  famous  order,  and  as 
often  exhibited  his  official  robes  free  from  every  stain 
in  the  eyes  of  his  august  master.  It  was  not  his 
destiny  to  commit  suicide  in  the  imperial  capital. 
It  was  his  lot  to  die  on  the  banks  of  the  faf  off  Gan- 
ges, away  from  his  kindred  and  native  land. 

Ho,  his  successor  to  the  foreign  portfolio,  and  the 
Governor  General  of  the  two  Kiangs,  did  not  fare  so 
well.  Ho  resided  at  the  citv  of  Chang-chow  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Nankin.  When  the  rebels,  in  the 
spring  of  1360,  broke  the  Imperial  lines  around  the 
latter  city,  and  overrun  the  country,  taking  Chang- 
chow  and  the  rich  city  of  Soo-choo,  Ho  became  des- 
perate, and  abandoning  place  after  place,  finally 
brought  up  at  Shanghai.  When  this  appalling  dis- 
aster became  known  to  the  Emperor,  Ho  was  imme- 
diately sent  for.  The  order  found  him  delightfully 
inebriated  with  opium.     He  had  taken  his  quarters 


CHINA   AND    THE    CHINESE.  195 

on  a  mandarin  boat  in  the  harbor,  and  was  surround- 
ed with  his  attendants.  He  continued  in  this  bliss- 
ful state,  with  only  short  intervals,  for  several  weeks. 
Ho  was  very  rich.  Finally  his  old  father  came  to  sec 
him.  The  Emperor  was  solicitous  to  know  why  the 
Governor  General  did  not  make  his  appearance.  Word 
was  sent  that  he  was  sick  unto  death,  and  therefore 
unable  to  undertake  so  long  a  journey.  Time  was 
asked  for  and  granted.  Ho,  under  the  direction  of 
his  father,  did  not  get  well,  but  continued  sick  month 
after  month,  till  the  time  reached  unto  a  year  and 
more.  Ho  had  an  assistant  in  his  foreign  bureau  by 
the  name  of  Seih.  This  last  named  mandarin  was 
very  rich,  but  had  large  political  ambition.  Ho  was 
deposed  from  office,  and  Seih  installed  in  his  stead, 
Ho  prefering  disgrace  to  death."  This  arrangement 
eased  the  mind  of  the  Emperor,  and  wa3  a  mo3t  sat- 
isfactory arrangement  to  the  Chinese  authorities  at 
Shanghai.  Ho  had  saved  and  ba^ed  all  his  riches, 
was  occupying  his  marine  quarters  in  quiet,  and  soon 
became  not  so  sick  but  that  he  could  attend  the  lux- 
urious banquets  of  the  Toutai  and  the  new  imperial 
commissioner  for  foreign  affairs.  His  fortunes  had 
taken  a  felicitous  turn,  and  he  was  once  more  on 
happy  terms  with  his  evil  spirit. 


196  OBSERVATIONS    OJY 

One  day  intelligence  reached  the  port,  that  Lan — 
who  had  been  deposed  from  the  position  of  Toutai  by 
the  interposition  of  Ho  in  former  years,  and  whom 
Seih  succeeded, —  had  reached  Pekin  after  a  long 
journey,  and  having  been  suddenly  attacked  with  a 
cough  had  died ;  in  other  words,  committed  suicide. 
This  created  a  fluttering  among  the  retainers  of  Ho 
and  Sieh,  which  had  not  subsided,  when  two  or  three 
days  afterwards  the  Emperor's  decree  reached  Shang- 
hai ordering  a  thorough  search  for  Ho,  and  his  arrest, 
and  if  arrested,  directing  him  to  be  brought  to  Pekin 
without  further  delay.  Of  course  the  magistrate  is- 
sued the  usual  warrant  for  his  immediate  arrest. 
What  came  of  it  did  not  transpire.  His  marine 
quarters  were  changed,  and  rumor  had  it  in  a  few  days 
that  Ho  was  dead,  having  fallen  in  a  fit  of  apoplexy. 
Truly  Chinese  punishments  are  sanguinary.  Chris- 
tian enlightenment  only  can  ameliorate  them. 


CHINA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  197 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 


RELIGION. 


BUDDHISM  is  the  prevailing  religion  among  the 
Chinese.  Buddha  is  the  great  god  before  all 
other  gods.  They  have  a  priesthood  who  administer 
at  the  temples,  attend  funerals,  witness  marriages, 
and  are  present  at  many  meetings  on  holidays. 
Their  heads  are  closelv  shaved,  as  well  as  their  faces. 
They  do  not  wear  the  tail  like  the  other  classes  of 
their  countrymen,  and  wear  no  head  dress  or  cover- 
ing. They  wear  loosely  a  light  colored  gown  ex- 
tending to  the  ankles,  and  plain  shoes.  They  do  not 
receive  stipends,  but  subsist  upon  alms  and  the  small 
perquisites  thrown  in  their  way  by  worshippers  at  the 
temples.  Usually  they  embrace  the  calling  at  an 
early  age,  and  are  taught  by  their  seniors  the  pre- 
cepts of  Confucius,  and  the  practical  duties  of  their 
order  of  priesthood.     Tanism,  that  is  demon  worship, 


198  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

once   was  prevalent  among  the  Mongolians,  but  it 
does  not  now   appear  to  be  recognized.     The  sacer- 
dotal    college  at   Pekin    regulates   the   priesthood 
throughout  the  empire.     Their  rituals  and  tenets  are 
the  same.     The  number  is  unlimited.     They  live  a 
secluded  life.     They  do  not  have  libraries  or  many 
books.     They  do  not  write  essays  or  sermons,  and 
appear   to   be    lazy  and    unambitious.      They    live 
in  the  temples,  commonly  called  joss  houses,  after 
the  idol  or  image  which  is  given  that  name  by   the 
people.     The  temples  in  the  country  are  often  erect- 
ed at  the  foot  of  some  hill,  or  in  the  gorge  of  some 
mountain.     Out  of  the   way  localities  are  the  most 
favorite  spots  for  the  ceremonies  of  the  temples,  and 
the  abodes  of  their  ministers,  who  lead  a  life  of  cel- 
ibacy.    There  is  a  small  island  among  the  Chusan 
group,  which  is  wholly  occupied  by  the  priests,  and 
thither  the  votaries  of  Buddha  repair  from  far  and 
near,   to  gain  the  favor  of  their  Gods.     It  is  said 
that  the  pirates  make  an  annual  visit  to  this  island, 
and  leave  large  sums  of  money  at  the  temples  to  gain 
absolution  for  their  many  offences.     The  island  is 
interspersed  with  hill    and  dale,  woodlands  and   im- 
proved fields,  and  presents  a  picturesque  and  invit- 
ing aspect.     On  one  side   of  the  island  there  is  a 


CHINA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  199 

precipice  two  hundred  feet  in  height  reaching  to 
the  sea  that  washes  its  rocky  base.  According  to 
tradition,  all  malefactors  who  visit  the  island  do  not 
receive  the  favor  of  Buddha,  and  have  been  re- 
quired to  take  the  fatal  leap  from  the  top  of  this 
precipice  to  the  waters  below.  The  influence  of  the 
priest  must  therefore  necessarily  be  great  over  the 
outlaws  that  roam  the  China  sea. 

When  the  worshipper  visits  the  temple,  it  is  neces- 
sary to  leave  at  least  a  few  cash  as  penance.  If  a  per- 
son dies  who  has  not  been  in  the  habit  of  going  to  the 
temple,  it  is  necessary  for  the  body  to  lay  awhile  in 
it  before  burial,  or  Buddha  will  not  intercede  with 
the  evil  spirit.  This  is  often  done.  The  temple  is 
supplied  with  apartments  for  this  purpose,  and  it  is  a 
rare  occurrence  to  find  them  empty.  Of  course, 
Buddha  receives  a  handsome  fee  for  this  condescen- 
sion, and  the  old  bare-headed  priest  is  the  chosen 
steward  to  take  care  of  it. 

The  Chinese  keep  idols  in  their  houses  and  shops  ; 
and  the  boatmen  never  are  without  them,  however 
insignificant  the  craft.  Adulations  are  daily  paid  to 
these  idols,  and  incense  burnt.  The  votaries  appear 
to  be  devout  and  sincere.  And  yet,  an  impartial  ob- 
server cannot  but  be  suspicious   that  it  is  a  hollow 


200  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

zeal,  an  outside  devotion,  and  not  taking  a  deep  root 
in  the  heart.  An  uneducated  Chinaman,  with  but 
little  time  or  disposition  for  reflection,  and  an  im- 
perfect knowledge  of  his  moral  duties  and  responsi- 
bilities, cannot  be  deeply  grounded  in  the  faith.  He 
is  naturally  superstitious,  and  grows  to  manhood  in 
a  land  of  superstition.  He  but  follows  in  the  foot- 
steps of  his  ancestors  while  subscribing  to  every  va- 
gary. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  new  year,  it  is  custom- 
ary to  write  some  character  representing  a  wish  or 
virtue,  on  a  long  strip  of  red  paper,  and  paste  it  on 
the  wall  of  the  house,  or  over  the  door,  or  on  the 
sides  of  the  vessel ;  and  this  is  the  talisman  for 
good  luck  throughout  the  year  to  come.  To  make 
the  charm  more  effective,  these  strips  of  red  paper 
are  multiplied  so  much,  that  it  is  common  to  see  an 
entire  side  of  the  house  or  vessel  covered  with  them. 
To  give  the  countenance  of  state  to  this  puerile  rite, 
it  is  a  heinous  offence  to  tear  them  off,  or  otherwise 
mutilate  them.  They  usually  remain  till  accident 
or  the  elements  have  intervened  for  their  destruction. 

It  is  a  religious  ceremony  to  sweep  the  graves  of 
one's  ancestors.  This  observance  occurs  annually 
in  the  spring  of  the  year  ;  and  whoever  neglects  it 


CHINA   AND    THE   CHINESE.  201 

is  the  butt  for  the  scorn  of  the  neighborhood  for 
many  a  month.  This  is  a  reasonable  observance, 
and  worthy  of  approval  in  Christian  communities. 
The  Chinaman's  love  for  his  ancestors  is  proverbial ; 
and  the  concession  of  this  virtue  to  him  probably 
emanates  from  the  tablets  and  obituary  remembrances 
which  are  religiously  preserved.  Yet  it  may  be, 
that  he  punctiliously  observes  these  traditional  duties 
more  to  appease  the  evil  spirit  of  his  ancestors,  than 
from  filial  affection.  It  is  a  religious  rite  for  the 
Emperor,  and  the  chief  Mandarin  in  every  district, 
on  the  same  day  at  the  beginning  of  the  spring  to 
plow  a  furrow,  and  yet  this  probably  is  done  to  propiti- 
ate the  evil  spirit,  not  merely  for  a  ripe  and  abundant 
harvest,  but  to  allure  the  farmers  by  example  to  at- 
tend to  their  avocations.  It  also  has  often  been  said 
that  the  Emperor  condescends  to  take  hold  of  the 
plow  in  token  of  his  respect  for  agriculture,  and  his 
constant  fatherly  care  for  the  husbandman.  It  is 
likely  nearer  the  truth  to  say,  that  he  observes  this 
custom,  because  it  has  come  down  to  him  through  a 
long  line  of  predecessors  from  the  buried  generations 
of  the  past.  He  considers  it  becoming  to  walk  in 
their  footsteps. 

There  is  no  particular  day  set  apart  for  religious 

9* 


202  OBSERVATIONS    OJY 

observance,  other  than  such  as  occurs  on  the  annual 
festivals  and  holidays.     The  Chinese  do  not  have  a 
Sunday.     They  believe  that  the  soul  transmigrates 
at  the  decease  of  the  body,  into  some  other  body  or 
substance  that  has  vitality.     They  seem  to  agree 
with  Pythagoras,  though  they  know  no  such  person. 
They  attach  divine  attributes  to  the  Emperor,  and 
believe  him  to  be  their  representative  in  the  great 
court  of  the  celestial  gods.     Their  religion  points  to 
the  present  and  past.     It  does  not  seem  to  grasp  a 
future   world    with   its   rewards   and   punishments. 
Their   moral    philosophy    partakes  of   materialism. 
China  has  her  sages,  but  their  thoughts  and  philoso- 
phy point  to  earth,  and  its  misery  and  happiness. 
They  do  not  rise  to  the  sublime  idea  of  one  and  the 
same  God  ruling  heaven  and  earth  and  every  crea- 
ture therein,  from  the  beginning  to  the  end  for  ever 
and  ever.     Much  less  do  they  appreciate  the  great 
transaction  of  that  Being  sending  his  only  begotten 
Son  from  heaven  to  earth,  as  a  sacrifice  for  the  sins 
of  the  people.     Christian  missionaries  have  opened 
their  eyes,  and  set  them  to  thinking  more  or  less  on 
this  subject.     Christian  schools  have  been  opened  at 
many  points  for  the  education  of  Chinese  youth  of 
both  sexes.     These  schools,  if  they  do  not  enlighten 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  203 

the  heart,  will  enlighten  their  young  minds  with 
the  precepts  of  Christianity,  make  them  worthier 
people,  and  pave  the  way  for  a  closer  affinity  of  feel- 
ing, thought  and  action,  between  Christian  and  Pagan 
communities. 


204  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 


BOTANY. MINERALOGY. 


TPHE  bamboo  abounds  in  China,  and  is  profitably 
X    used  in  a  variety  of  ways.     It  is  a  staple  which 
takes  the  place  of  wood  in  many  respects,  as  used  in 
other  countries.     The  willow  is  found  in  many  parts 
of  the  empire,  and  is  worked  into  baskets,  and  other 
useful  articles.      There   are   several   species.     One 
kind  attains  a  large  size.     The  girth  is  from  five  to 
ten  feet.     Then  there  is  the  camphor  tree,  from  which 
is  obtained   camphor.     The  log  is  sawed  into  thin 
boards,  and  therewith  are  manufactured  boxes  and 
trunks,  celebrated  for  preserving  furs  and  garments 
from  the  encroachments  of  the  moth  and  the  mold. 
The  tallow  tree  is  also  grown,  exuding  its  fatty  juices, 
and  its  seeds  yielding  vegetable  oil.     The  fruit  trees 
embrace  the  plumb,  apricot,  peach,  fig,  orange,  quince 
pomegranate,  cocoanut,  pine  apple,  lime,  hazel  nut, 
chestnut,  and  walnut.     There  is  also  the  paper  tree, 
from  the  inner  bark  of  which  paper  is  manufactured 


CIILVA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  205 

extensively.  The  Chinese  call  it  Koo-soo.  They 
likewise  have  the  cypress,  yew,  and  pine.  The 
leading  shrubbery  plants  are  the  tea  and  the  mul- 
berry ;  and,  as  is  universally  known,  these  two  plants 
underlie  the  fame  and  wealth  of  the  country.  The 
rose  of  innumerable  variety  flourishes,  and  the 
passion  flower  with  its  white,  red  and  purple  tints. 
The  honeysuckle  and  the  wild  rose  are  everywhere 
seen  in  beautiful  luxuriance.  But  all  these  flowers 
are  devoid  of  the  aroma  that  makes  them  so  delight- 
ful in  other  lands.  They  are  charming  to  the  eye, 
but  do  not  scent  the  air  with  delicious,  rosy  fragrance. 
Their  dazzling  hues  bewilder  the  sight,  but  fail  of 
other  agreeable  sensations. 

China  has  its  share  of  the  mineral  productions  of 
the  earth.  About  all  that  are  elsewhere  found,  with 
the  exception  of  platina,  may  also  be  found  in  some 
of  the  eighteen  provinces.  Gold  and  silver  is  found 
in  the  province  of  Yun-nan,  and  the  former  is  also 
washed  from  the  sands  of  the  Yangtze  river  above 
Han  Kow.  Coals  of  a  bituminous  character  and 
fair  quality  are  obtainable  in  the  same  regions.  The 
silver  is  of  great  fineness  and  purity,  and  a  consider- 
able amount  leaves  the  kingdom  every  year  in  ex- 
change for  opium.  Quicksilver  is  used  for  coloring 
and  medicine.     Vast  quantities  of  copper  are  used 


206  OBSERVATIONS  OJV 

for  the  making  of  the  currency  called  cash,  and 
it  as  well  as  brass,  is  worked  into  a  variety  of  man- 
ufactures. They  do  not  appear  to  get  enough  lead 
or  tin  or  zinc  to  satisfy  the  home  demand,  as  the 
custom  house  returns  exhibit  a  large  importation 
every  year.  They  have  gypsum,  alum,  and  nitre. 
They  also  have  porcelain  earth,  which  has  enabled 
them  so  long  to  monopolize  the  manufacture  of  por- 
celain, commonly  called  china  ware.  The  supply 
thus  far  has  equalled  the  demand,  and  the  beds  from 
which  it  is  procured  appear  to  be  inexhaustible. 
This  manufacture  has  been  suspended  of  late  years, 
in  consequence  of  the  presence  of  the  rebels.  They 
have  overrun  the  country  where  this  substance  is 
found,  and  rendered  it  unsafe  for  the  capitalists 
engaged  in  the  manufacture,  to  continue  the  work 
for  the  present.  The  lime  burner  has  no  difficulty 
in  getting  stone  for  lime,  and  of  the  best  quality. 
It  is  used  extensively  and  constantly,  no  nation  uses 
more.  It  is  furnished  in  ordinary  times  at  about 
one  half  its  cost  in  the  United  States. 

The  most  authentic  accounts  do  not  accord  to 
China  many  of  the  precious  stones.  It  has  the  jade, 
amber,  and  the  agate  in  profusion,  as  well  as  the 
jasper,  the  amethyst  and  other  species  of  quartz. 
But   the  diamond,  the  emerald,  the  beryl,  must  be 


CHIJYA   AJVD    THE   CHINESE.  207 

looked  for  elsewhere,  with  any  degree  of  success. 
Pearls  both  large  and  small  are  obtainable.     Their 
scarcity,    however,    keeps     them   at   a    high    price. 
The  Chinese  women  are  very  fond  of  bedecking  their 
persons   with  ornaments.     The  men  wear  bracelets 
and   large   finger-rings.      The   women   in   addition 
wear  a  gay  head  dress,  if  by  hook  or  crook  they 
can  procure  it.     The  women  also  have  necklaces, 
and  wear  richly  embroidered  satin  shoes  and  slippers, 
interworked  with  pearls.     Silver  ornaments  of  curi- 
ous and  various  workmanship  are  those  most  sought 
after  by  all  classes.     Occasionally  among  the   rich 
class    the    most    precious    stones  are  worn.     It  is 
rare  however,  to  see  the  diamond,  not  because  the 
wealth  is  lacking  to  pay  for  it,  but  on  account  of  its 
scarcity.      To  make  up  this  deficiency  of  supply, 
there  are   many  imitations   of  the  precious  jewel. 
Manufactures  of  the  spurious  article  meet  with  but 
little  patronage,  for  their    customers    are   too  well 
posted  to  be  often  misled.     The  loot  brought  away 
by  the  British  and  French  from  the  Emperor's  pal- 
ace,  contained  many  priceless  gems  that  had  been 
gathering  there  during  a  term  of  time,  no  person 
knows  how  long.     They  had  come  there  as  tribute 
from  Thibet  and  Tartary,  and  from  the   confines  of 


upper 


India,  and  from  remote  islands  in  southern 


208  OBSERVATIONS    OJV 

seas.     Chinese  are  proverbial  for  their  undying  at- 
tachment for-home  ;  and  yet  they  have  roamed  from 
time  to  time  over  all  the  Eastern  oceans,  and  colonized 
many  of   the    islands.      Desirous  of  retaining  the 
protecting  aegis  of  their  mother  country,  they  have 
propitiated  the  Emperor  with   largesses  and   tribute 
from  almost  every  clime.     Many  of  the  lawless  ro- 
vers of  those  seas,  it  is  said,  have  often  had  forgive- 
ness of  their  sins,  by  contributions  from  their  valu- 
able captures.     Argosies  trading  to  Malacca  and  the 
shores  of  Persia,  have  returned  heavily  ladened  with 
the  priceless  gems  of  those    latitudes.     From    these 
various   sources,    have   the   Mandarins    and    gentry 
been  enabled  to  gratify  their  extravagant  cravings 
for  the  luxuries  and  riches  of  other  countries  —  till 
the  abundance  in  which  precious  stones  are  used,  has 
superinduced  the  belief  that  they  were  indigenous  to 
China.     A  great  fallacy.     Besides,  it  is  found  upon 
close  scrutiny,  that  numerous  stones  of  the  quartz 
species  owe  their  almost  dazzling  brilliancy  to  the 
refinement  of  artistic  .1  skill.     In  this  kind  of  work- 
manship the   Chinese   equal,  if  they  do  not  surpass, 
the  artisans  of  other  nations. 


CHINA  AND  THE  CHINESE.  209 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 


THE  FUTUKE. 


CHINA  has  had  a  long  past.  Amid  the  mutila- 
tions and  revolutions  of  contemporaneous  govern- 
ments for  sixty  centuries,  this  "  middle  kingdom'' 
has  kept  its  course.  True,  the  seat  of  dominion 
has  been  occupied  by  different  dynasties,  and  the 
people  of  adjoining  realms  have  crossed  the  border, 
but  the  manners,  thoughts,  and  institutions  of  the 
country,  have  continued  essentially  the  same.  Tar- 
tary  made  its  mark ;  and,  by  seating  its  imperial 
blood  upon  the  throne,  has  drawn  largely  upon  the 
royal  exchequer,  and  wielded  the  sceptre.  But 
tradition  or  written  history  fails  to  show  a  radical 
change  in  the  virtues  and  vices,  habits  and  opinions, 
of  the  people,  or  in  the  former  policy  of  government- 
al action.  From  the  first,  it  has  been  a  despotic 
government,  the  will  of  the  chief  being  the  supreme 


210  OBSERVATIONS  OJ\T 

law  of  the  land.  It  has  always  claimed  to  be  pa- 
rental in  cherishing  the  temporal  interests  of  the 
inhabitants,  and  punishing  their  vices.  The  rulers 
have  regarded  the  submission  and  obedience  of  the 
ruled,  as  the  tokens  of  their  assent  to  the  central 
authority,  and  of  their  desire  for  its  continuance. 
The  rulers  have  viewed  such  acquiescence  in  the 
same  light  and  of  the  same  significance  as  the  bal- 
lot is  wont  to  be  estimated  in  the  revolutions  of  later 
times.  From  the  first,  also,  the  Emperor  has  as- 
sumed the  heavenly  character,  and  claimed  to  be  the 
earthly  vicegerent  of  the  great  and  mysterious  ru- 
ler of  heaven.  This  divine  attribute  has  been 
claimed  so  long  and  with  such  pertinacity,  from 
age  to  age,  that  the  present  generation  regard  it  as 
sacrilege  even  to  question  its  existence.  Entrenched 
behind  the  protection  of  this  pretended  influence 
with  heaven,  and  their  constantly  asserted  fatherly 
guardianship  of  the  children  of  the  earth,  the  em- 
perors of  all  dynasties  have  hitherto  successfully 
veiled  the  eyes  of  the  people,  and  transmitted  the 
imperial  dominion  from  reign  to  reign. 

Fable  shrouds  the  early  periods  of  Chinese  histo- 
ry, and  much  of  its  authenticity  rests  upon  legends 
and  tradition.     Enough  light  is  shed  to  satisfy  the 


CITIJ\~A  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  211 

candid  enquirer,  that  civilization  had  existed  and 
attained  much  progress  when  it  was  only  dawning 
upon  the  nations  of  the  western  hemisphere.  It  is 
evident  that  the  imperial  dominion  was  shared 
but  once.  From  the  year  of  our  Lord  300  to  the 
year  600,  the  empire  was  divided  into  three  states. 
After  remaining  in  this  distracted  condition  for  about 
three  centuries, "  (some  traditions  terminating  it  in 
the  year  of  our  Lord  585)  it  was  again  united  under 
one  ruler. 

Three  hundred  years  afterwards  there  was  anoth- 
er contest  for  the  dominion,  but  after  fifty  years  of 
fighting,  pacification  ensued  upon  the  establishment 
of  the  Tsoong  dynasty,  and  a  Chinaman  named  Tai- 
soo  ascended  the  throne.  The  Tartars,  however, 
were  not  content ;  and  after  three  or  four  decades 
of  years  they  compelled  the  reigning  dynasty  to 
accept  the  assistance  of  the  Mongols.  The  discon- 
tented Tartars  were  foiled  in  their  revolutionary 
efforts,  and  a  new  dynasty  was  founded  in  the  person 
of  Kublai  Khan.  This  change  shocked  the  public 
mind  the  more,  because  the  new  Emperor  removed  the 
seat  of  the  general  government  from  the  old  and  time- 
honored  capital  of  Nankin,  to  the  northern  city  of 
Pekin,  where  it  has  remained  ever  since.     The  pub- 


212  OBSERVATIONS  0J\" 

lie  tranquillity  continued  till  about  the  year  1350, 
when  it  was  again  disturbed,  and  resulted  in  the 
re-establishment  of  the  Ming  dynasty  in  the  person 
of  Hong-woo.  Two  centuries  and  a  half  now  en- 
sued of  public  prosperity,  progress,  and  peace.  The 
Mantchoo  Tartars,  about  the  year  1600,  commenced 
war  upOn  the  reigning  dynasty,  and  after  convulsing 
the  country  with  their  hostilities  for  a  quarter  of  a 
century,  established  the  present  imperial  house,  and 
a  Mant-choo  named  Shun-chy,  the  descendant  of 
mixed  Mongol  and  Tartar  races,  ascended  the  impe- 
rial throne.  The  educated  classes  in  China  name 
twenty-six  different  dynasties,  and  count  two  hundred 
and  thirty-six  names,  as  the  number  of  their  sov- 
ereigns. 

Upon  the  assumption  of  power  by  Shun-chy,  a 
long  term  of  peace  ensued.  The  authority  of  the 
government  was  strengthened,  more  liberal  and  en- 
lightened views  upon  the  subjects  of  commerce  and 
religion  obtained,  insomuch  that  the  late  Emperor 
Heen-fung  proclaimed  toleration  to  foreign  commerce 
and  the  Christian  religion.  In  the  year  1849.  there 
was  a  rising  of  the  people  in  the  south,  near  Canton. 
The  insubordination  spread,  till  a  large  army  with 
banners  had  gathered  in  the  Province.     In  a  short 


CHIJYA   AND    THE   CHINESE.  213 

time  it  progressed  northward,   subsisting  upon  the 
people  as  it  passed  along,  and  all  the  while  adding 
to  its  numbers.     It  was  under  the  lead  of  a  person 
styled  Taeping  Wang.     He  proclaimed  the  object 
of  this  demonstration  to  be,  the  overthrow  of   the 
reigning  dynasty,  and  the  establishment  of  his  per- 
son instead,  as  the  representative  of  the  first  native 
Chinese  dynasty.     He  took  many  large  cities,  and 
finally  conquered  Nankin  in  the  following  year  of 
1850,  which  he  has  ever  since   held,  and  where  he 
proclaims  he  has  established  the  seat  of  the  Taeping 
government.     His  possession  of  this  old  capital  of 
the   empire,  however,   has    not   been   undisturbed. 
The  armies  of  the  reigning  dynasty  have  repeatedly 
besieged  it  and  attempted  to  gain  the  possession,  but 
all  their  efforts  thus  far  have  been  in  vain.     On  the 
contrary,  instead  of  being  confined  to  defensive  op- 
erations, this  new  power  has  successfully  executed 
many   an   offensive   movement.      It  has  taken   the 
great  cities  of  Soo-choo,  Hang-chow,  and  Ningpo. 
It  has  overrun  and  subdued  to  its  sway  two  thirds 
of  the  provinces  of  the  two  Kiangs  with  their  eighty 
millions  of  people,  and  taken  possession  of  innumer- 
able villages  and  hamlets.     In  many  long  and  bloody 
battles,  it  has  shown  itself  an  overmatch  for  the  im- 


214  OBSERVATIONS  OJY 

perial  power.  Single  handed  it  would  seem  to  pos- 
sess the  resources  and  strength  to  more  than  cope 
with  its  adversary,  and  in  due  time  gain  the  diadem 
of  the  reigning  Emperor.  Nevertheless,  its  future 
is  uncertain  and  cloudy.  The  authorities  of  Great 
Britain  and  France  appear  to  have  resolved  to  aid 
the  Emperor  in  crushing  it.  They  have  lent  their 
counsels  and  forces  for  several  months  past.  The 
aspect  of  this  great  and  vindictive  civil  war  has,  in 
the  meantime,  materially  changed  ;  and  unless  the 
Taepings  possess  an  unexpected  recuperative  energy 
and  power,  the  chances  are  against  the  continuance 
of  their  sway,  and  in  favor  of  the  final  re-ascenden- 
cy of  the  imperial  rule. 

The  future  of  China  depends,  in  some  particulars, 
upon  the  issue.  A  successful  result  to  the  Taepings 
would  probably  accelerate  the  dissemination  of  Chris- 
tian institutions  far  and  wide  among  the  Chinese. 
An  augmentation  and  increased  facility  of  commer- 
cial intercourse  would  also  probably  be  the  conse- 
quences, if  the  new  dynasty  observed  in  good  faith 
the  treaty  arrangements  that  the  old  dynasty  has 
concluded  with  foreign  nations.  Whether  it  would 
be  in  the  power  of  the  new  dynasty  to  act  in  good 
faith,  would  essentially  depend   upon   its   ability  to 


CHIJVA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE.  215 

establish  and  set  in  motion  a  new  government  in  all 
its  executive  branches,  and  maintain  order,  and  pre- 
serve the  public  peace.  Its  followers  have  been  en- 
gaged so  long  in  war,  plundering  from  the  laboring 
classes  whatever  their  wants  or  fancy  may  have  dic- 
tated, living,  so  to  speak,  a  roving  and  dissolute  life, 
makes  it  questionable  whether  their  rulers  in  the 
time  of  peace  would  bo  able  to  maintain  the  supre- 
macy of  the  laws,  and  afford  proper  protection  to  all 
persons  and  interests  within  the  pale  of  their  juris- 
diction. This  earnest  of  the  future  has  not  yet  been 
given,  by  their  civil  administration  over  the  country 
or  cities  and  villages  they  have  subjugated.  Instead 
thereof,  anarchy  seems  to  be  the  counterpart  of  con- 
quest. 

Such  is  China  and  the  Chinese. 

The  United  States  is  nearer  than  either  of  the 
other  treaty  powers.  The  people  of  the  former 
country  do  not  crave  dominion.  They  -ask  open 
ports  and  unfettered  commerce.  In  sending  civil 
and  naval  officers  thither,  the  government  simply  de- 
sires to  extend  to  its  citizens  the  protection  of  the 
flag.  Neutral  in  all  that  relates  to  the  domestic 
troubles  and  internal  commotions  of  China,  the 
United  States  claims  and  will  have  all  the  immuni- 


216  CHIJYA  AJVD  THE  CHINESE. 

ties  and  rights  which  are  accorded  to  other  nations. 
Hitherto  the  government  has  made  itself  known,  its 
laws  and  institutions  felt,  and  its  starry  banner  re- 
spected among  the  countries  and  people  of  both 
hemispheres ;  and  God  grant  that,  having  brushed 
away  the  cloud  which  now  lowers  over  the  land,  as 
will  surely  be  the  case,  the  great  Republic  of  the 
West  may  continue  to  pursue  its  useful  and  glori- 
ous career  to  the  end  of  time. 


THE    END. 


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FEB  1  7  1983 

^NIV.  OF  CALIF..  BERK. 

JUL  06  1988 


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